Is it aid....

To tape a block of wood to your leg so you can use a knee bar that otherwise would be too big for you? How about to tape it to your elbow and chicken wing with it instead? Is it aid to use specialty 1/2" thick crack gloves to make that nasty fist crack perfect hands?

There’s no cheating, only lying.

Even shorter answer: who cares.

Serious answer: yeah that’s aid.

Posted almost an identical question weeks ago and got crucified with no coherent answer except “why do you care!!!” Over and over lol good luck!

Of course yes

If you're a V17 boulderer it's fine to use a book under your kneepad. This might work better than a block of wood and is easily customised at the crag to provide the optimum extra thickness (be careful not to rip out too many pages at a time).

For the rest of us...definitely aid!

duncan...wrote:

If you're a V17 boulderer it's fine to use a book under your kneepad. This might work better than a block of wood and is easily customised at the crag to provide the optimum extra thickness (be careful not to rip out too many pages at a time).

For the rest of us...definitely aid!

I can’t believe this is real! I’m tired of getting pumped out on my crimpy project, maybe I should try strapping a skyhook to my wrist and call it “new beta.”

I had a friend crack climb a wide fist crack in his motorcycle gloves. He was able to hand jam the fist crack! I thought it was pretty funny. 

Ultimately we had a laugh, don't really care if it's aid or not. 

Just make sure you disclose your non-normative shenanigans on your IG post and it is fine

Is it aid?

apogeewrote:

Is it aid?

This is one of my favorite climbing photos. It blew me away the first time I saw it in the North Conway guide. He is credited with the FFA of that route, so decidedly not aid in this case.

But yeah, I’ve read that Hugh got a lot of shit for his prosthetics. Not like he cares.

He talks a bit about it in the NOVA doc called “Augmented”.

https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/video/augmented/

Cronwrote:

This is one of my favorite climbing photos. It blew me away the first time I saw it in the North Conway guide. He is credited with the FFA of that route, so decidedly not aid in this case.

But yeah, I’ve read that Hugh got a lot of shit for his prosthetics. Not like he cares.

He talks a bit about it in the NOVA doc called “Augmented”.

https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/video/augmented/

Anyone who calls that aid is welcome to chop their legs off and go do some aid climbing.

I don't see any distinction between these kinds of stunts and drytooling. It's kind of ridiculous. And if your only response is "why do you care", then I have to wonder, why do YOU care what someone else cares about?

edit to apogee: Using a prosthetic limb to make up for a missing limb is not even in the same league as using prosthetics just to "get a send". 

Brandon Rwrote:

I don't see any distinction between these kinds of stunts and drytooling. It's kind of ridiculous. And if your only response is "why do you care", then I have to wonder, why do YOU care what someone else cares about?

edit to apogee: Using a prosthetic limb to make up for a missing limb is not even in the same league as using prosthetics just to "get a send". 

Are you saying handicapped climbers are pulling “stunts”?

Tradibanwrote:

Are you saying handicapped climbers are pulling “stunts”?

No. Are you saying you're having a hard time reading? Handicapped: missing limbs or parts that don't function normally. Non-handicapped: too short of legs for a specific move, thin fingers, out of shape, etc. A handicapped person trying to get back to normal function is not a stunt.

Brandon, you have clearly made assumptions about my view of such things. Personally, I find Hugh Herr's accomplishments obviously and unequivocally in the 'Amazing' category.

Climbing is an incredibly arbitrary activity with the only 'rules' created by those who climb. Experience climbing any way you like, but be honest and forthcoming about the way you do it. And don't f*ck up other peoples experience as you do it.

apogeewrote:

Brandon, you have clearly made assumptions about my view of such things. Personally, I find Hugh Herr's accomplishments obviously and unequivocally in the 'Amazing' category.

Climbing is an incredibly arbitrary activity with the only 'rules' created by those who climb. Experience climbing any way you like, but be honest and forthcoming about the way you do it. And don't f*ck up other peoples experience as you do it.

Fair enough. But in fairness, your 3 word post left lots of room for interpretation. 

Yeah, electronic communication is often that way. Never hurts to ask for clarification of meaning.

From the time he started building his own prosthetic limbs for climbing, there has always been some small number of climbers who mumbled (sometimes loudly) about how it affects the ethics of climbing. Just goes to show you how narrow/closed minded some climbers can be.

Tradibanwrote:

Why answer? You’ve already made up your mind.

Aww, I guess it really isn't aid if it didn't get the tradi seal of approval.

Its sick to know my guidebook has new uses and will help me project the 5.10a sport climb I'm currently working on though :)

Cronwrote:

This is one of my favorite climbing photos. It blew me away the first time I saw it in the North Conway guide. He is credited with the FFA of that route, so decidedly not aid in this case.

But yeah, I’ve read that Hugh got a lot of shit for his prosthetics. Not like he cares.

He talks a bit about it in the NOVA doc called “Augmented”.

https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/video/augmented/

I didn't notice the prothetics the first time. That is actually amazing. I haven't watched the video yet, but looking at that shot, I'd imagine it would still be a notable disadvantage to not have feeling in your feet or the ability to move your ankle to smear better for this climb.

Tradibanwrote:

Why answer? You’ve already made up your mind.

engaging with you might be a mistake but it's truly an amazing feat of mental gymnastics that you feel this post is a worthy contribution to a curious individual's effort in starting a discussion with peers :) 

Connor Freefallwrote:

engaging with you might be a mistake but it's truly an amazing feat of mental gymnastics that you feel this post is a worthy contribution to a curious individual's effort in starting a discussion with peers :) 

FYI, I started all the “is it aid?” crap as a joke, sure did catch on!