Favorite Harnesses Currently?
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After seeing the BD Solution Guide get discontinued I opted for a BD Zone Harness and I gotta say I'm quite happy with it so far. I don't think the gear loops are too small at all, and the infinite belay loop is a cool gimmick sure enough. It has the fifth aux gear loop and feels very comfortable overall. |
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I'm planning on trying out the weebee bigwall soon. I'll write a review when I do. Initial impressions are that it's comfy as hell and I like the features. |
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Henrique Vermelhowrote: The hell?! That sucks. I hope they have a back warehouse cache they’ll sell when I need a new one. |
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I’ve been wearing misty mountain for several years now and have been really happy. For cragging I wear the Turbo and the Cadillac for bigger days. |
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Colonel Mustardwrote: Isn’t Solution Guide just the Technician with leg loops that don’t adjust? |
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Zach Cwrote: Good to know. I actually like the non-adjustable leg loops, oddly enough. |
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I have a love hate relationship with my new Metolius safetech all-around. Out of the three harnesses I have owned, it is by far the most comfortable, I feel like it is better built than my last two Petzl harnesses, and generally a better harness. What I hate though is the gear loops are so damn small and sewn in the least ergonomic fashion that make them weirdly difficult to access and use if you are not at the smallest size the harness will go down to. The size of the gear loops also causes terrible crowding when I load them with gear that makes it difficult to pull what I need easily. |
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Another vote for Metolius Safetech, which is my long time favorite. They also make the Waldo version of the Safetech which has more padding and a few other big wall features, maybe bigger loops? Me, my wife and kids, and several of my discerning friends have all used the Safetech for decades. The gear loops are rated for a short fall, unlike the plastic or shoelace style gear loops on the competition. They used to advertise that it was called the Safetech because you could anchor in with any piece of fabric on the harness, including a gear loop, and they were all rated in kN. Their verbage stated that people make mistakes when they are tired...but the harness had your back. I don't see that info on the website anymore...but it's sewn the same as it has been since they invented it. Other than the Jtree climbing store, no one seems to stock them anymore. Lately I've been ordering them through my local gym, or directly through Metolius. If you are in Smith, stop by the factory. Get a harness and a tour! |
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Cody Goldbergwrote: Keen to hear what you think. I'll possibly be able to try one on at Arapiles mountain shop, no chance of that here in NZ. |
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I also love my decade old Metolius Safetech for rock climbing. The adjustable rise is great for my body and in the short setting it's the most comfy harness I've tried on to hang in. I do cinch it down all the way as someone mentioned so the gear loops happen to be well positioned for me. But that is an issue with all 3 buckle harnesses IMO, if they don't fit perfect the loops end up lopsided. |
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I just received the new version of the Edelrid Sendero. Both the gear loops are 9cm inside width, and 45mm 'deep'. They're a stiff plastic. The rear loop is quite small: 5cm x 45mm in a rounded loop. I fit three small (Grivel) lockers easily on it holding ATC w/ another Attache, a cordelette and nut tool. Really nice is that there's two waistband retaining loops, and they're along the top of the swami and will hold the belt out of the way of the gear loops. There's a full, wide space between the gear loops to:
I fit 8 nano 22 with aliens and TCU on the front gear loop. The harness fits we with most of the belt tightened. You can slide the webbing within the harness to center everything, which is nice. It's not easy to slide around. I can see the front gear loops but they are not in front on my belly even though the harness is tightened almost all the way. The rear gear loops are on my back. I can pull the biners forward and see them, but it's not like if they were on my side. Ice tool loop ends up just past my side as it's set up on my waist. Overall, the foam is pretty rigid and I think this will make it much more comfortable than the Sitta for hanging belays. I felt confident clipping and unclipping to the gear loops. A nice feature is the waist and leg belt webbing ends are folded over and sewn inward, instead of outward, which makes them easier to undo from the elastic keepers. |
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Zach Cwrote: I think the gear loops are bigger on the solution guide and also the webbing around the waist and legs is wider and more comfortable. I have the SG for rock and I like it, I have the technician for ice and don't like it very much. |
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Ira OMCwrote: Well, shiii… I’m back to being bummed they discontinued the SG. |
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The harness I'm most interested in nowadays is the Blue Ice Cuesta. What do folks think about that one? |
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Ira OMCwrote: Great harness that is ruined by tiny gear loops |
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Finn Lanverswrote: Damn, that is so often the case ... |
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I have a brand new Sitta size Medium to sell. I wore it one day for ice a week ago. My cycling legs are too big for the leg loops. $105 including shipping. I got the Blue Ice Cuesta Adj instead. Using it to replace my a395. Its comfortable. The gear loops are smaller, but it can still take a double rack easily. I'd say it's close to the solution guide. |
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Ira OMCwrote: I have been using a Cuesta Adj as my dedicated ice harness. I like where the clippers ride better than on the 395A (at least, on my body). For me the gear loops are fine. |
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For those who might be interested, here is a comparison of the gear loop sizes on the Blue Ice Cuesta vs the Arc'teryx FL-365 (both size S). The gear loops on the AR-395a are identical to those on the FL-365 btw. Personally I found the gear loops on the Cuesta to be a bit too small and too floppy for my taste. Front gear loops: Back gear loops: |
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Ira OMCwrote: I’ve been using the Cuesta Adjust for ice climbing the last couple months. I like the construction and fit. Plus the ice clipper locations work great. I have no problem racking the gear I need. Probably my all time favorite ice harness (used Hyrundos most recently, Corax and Arc’teryx 395). |






