New Edelrid Belay Device the " Pinch"

John Clarkwrote:

But will the user be able to unintentionally disengage the SLC since the tension is rated greater that the IBS standard? I am mostly worried that the device hasn’t been tested to GNFU levels

GNFU = “General Newbie F@ck Up”???

can anyone in SAR or the industrial rope access world speak to the Pinch's static line use? It's "suitable" for 10-10.5mm static, but i'd be curious whether I can use it for 9-9.5mm static on low angle terrain as an ascender or descender

Peter Ywrote:

can anyone in SAR or the industrial rope access world speak to the Pinch's static line use? It's "suitable" for 10-10.5mm static, but i'd be curious whether I can use it for 9-9.5mm static on low angle terrain as an ascender or descender

Guessing this doesn’t get a lot of use in those worlds. SAR and RA usually have more specialized equipment. This is a recreational device.

Noel Z wrote:

The feeding motion is not quite the same as the grigri. The thumb's postion is the same, but for the index finger there is no rolled edge or lip. That rolled edge on the Petzl is very useful for the index finger and it's just not there on the Pinch. The Pinch still works, but it's no Grigri.

I think that’s because they intend for you to attach it to your harness. Your index finger can then hold the rope with your other 3 fingers. 

https://www.oliunid.com/edelrid-ohm-gym-and-crag-climbing-assisted-braking-resistor-quickdraw.html

New ohm 2 available.

Yeah I ordered mine this morning and its already shipped status. 

John Clarkwrote:

Guessing this doesn’t get a lot of use in those worlds. SAR and RA usually have more specialized equipment. This is a recreational device.

The Pinch is listed under the professional side of the Edelrid website, and the device has EN 12841 cert.

J Cwrote:

The Pinch is listed under the professional side of the Edelrid website, and the device has EN 12841 cert.

Cool, but I don’t usually trust people whose initials are J C.

Fair... good thing trust doesn't play a role here

https://edelrid.com/us-en/professional/descenders-shop/pinch?sort=new_desc&filter%5Bkategorie_id%5D%5B0%5D=83&variant=4184339

J Cwrote:

Fair... good thing trust doesn't play a role here

https://edelrid.com/us-en/professional/descenders-shop/pinch?sort=new_desc&filter%5Bkategorie_id%5D%5B0%5D=83&variant=4184339

Idk, J C’s are still shifty in my book

My OHM 2 came in.  Pretty sweet.  Much more refined product, and the swivel is awesome.  

I'll see how it climbs on Friday. 

Looking forward to a full review after you've used it, Brad!  Particularly interested to know if it is worth shelling out for the upgrade if you already have the original OHM and haven't had any problems with it.

Exiled Michiganderwrote:

Looking forward to a full review after you've used it, Brad!  Particularly interested to know if it is worth shelling out for the upgrade if you already have the original OHM and haven't had any problems with it.

Yeah I've not really had any issues with the one. I can already tell the swivel will be nice so you're not twisting the dogbone when pulling. 

Is the Grigi work for left and right hand dominant person's? I believe this device is.

Chris Mwrote:

Is the Grigi work for left and right hand dominant person's? I believe this device is.

Don't you know that left handed people don't belay?

Chris Mwrote:

Is the Grigi work for left and right hand dominant person's? I believe this device is.

I mean the handle is still on the left.....So just like the GG, which lefties and righties use regularly.

Thomas Worshamwrote:

Don't you know that left handed people don't belay?

That was a legitimate question, I have never used a grigri.  I am under the assumption that one of the cheek plates was smoothed for the rope travel and the other was not.

Chris Mwrote:

That was a legitimate question, I have never used a grigri.  I am under the assumption that one of the cheek plates was smoothed for the rope travel and the other was not.

I was honestly being sarcastic about left handed GG users. You are correct that the GG has a lip on the cheek plate that smooths out rope travel fairly nicely. the Pinch has a very small lip on the cheek plate but I don't believe that it was designed for the rope to run over, with the braking teeth being the primary position for rope control when lowering. I think a lot of left handers will have the same issues with this device that they have the with GG for lead belays.

https://youtube.com/shorts/RBhsv4Lvm00?feature=shared

Looks like Ryan from HowNot2 will be doing a Q&A with the edelrid folks about the pinch and is asking for questions people want answered, so go ask him stuff!

I am really excited for the Pinch. I primarily belay hard steep routes in the RRG, and I think the device being a few inches closer to my belay loop is going to make belaying intense pitches much nicer. I hate how much the grigri flops around when paying in and out quickly.