New Edelrid Belay Device the " Pinch"

Alec Bakerwrote:

This video is the only demonstration of an ABD used in FPLB that I’m aware of, but it’s worth noting that the device doesn’t operate with a spring loaded cam that could become disengaged by the device getting pinched into the rock, and the instructional booklet doesn’t have any mention of using it as an ABD in FPLB

https://youtu.be/l6ysWgKjnlY?si=Q0h9Vf2qTu3_Ghv3 

But will the user be able to unintentionally disengage the SLC since the tension is rated greater that the IBS standard? I am mostly worried that the device hasn’t been tested to GNFU levels

If one uses AVJ (appropriately vague jargon) to highlight BSD (bullshit devices) then these threads will go on forever, a vendors/sales rep dream come true..

clifffwrote:

If one uses AVJ (appropriately vague jargon) to highlight BSD (bullshit devices) then these threads will go on forever, a vendors/sales rep dream come true..

This is serious. If you are going to just poke fun at serious safety concerns, then please go away or I will start flagging your posts for IRMTF (intentionally ruining my troll fun).

but seriously, what is FPLB or whatever that dude is going on about? Am i gunna die if I don’t know?

PL edit: are y’all suddenly european?

John Clarkwrote:

This is serious. If you are going to just poke fun at serious safety concerns, then please go away or I will start flagging your posts for IRMTF (intentionally ruining my troll fun).

but seriously, what is FPLB or whatever that dude is going on about? Am i gunna die if I don’t know?

Fixed Point Lead Belay

John Clarkwrote:

But will the user be able to unintentionally disengage the SLC since the tension is rated greater that the IBS standard? I am mostly worried that the device hasn’t been tested to GNFU levels

GNFU = “General Newbie F@ck Up”???

can anyone in SAR or the industrial rope access world speak to the Pinch's static line use? It's "suitable" for 10-10.5mm static, but i'd be curious whether I can use it for 9-9.5mm static on low angle terrain as an ascender or descender

Peter Ywrote:

can anyone in SAR or the industrial rope access world speak to the Pinch's static line use? It's "suitable" for 10-10.5mm static, but i'd be curious whether I can use it for 9-9.5mm static on low angle terrain as an ascender or descender

Guessing this doesn’t get a lot of use in those worlds. SAR and RA usually have more specialized equipment. This is a recreational device.

Noel Zwrote:

The feeding motion is not quite the same as the grigri. The thumb's postion is the same, but for the index finger there is no rolled edge or lip. That rolled edge on the Petzl is very useful for the index finger and it's just not there on the Pinch. The Pinch still works, but it's no Grigri.

I think that’s because they intend for you to attach it to your harness. Your index finger can then hold the rope with your other 3 fingers. 

https://www.oliunid.com/edelrid-ohm-gym-and-crag-climbing-assisted-braking-resistor-quickdraw.html

New ohm 2 available.

Yeah I ordered mine this morning and its already shipped status. 

John Clarkwrote:

Guessing this doesn’t get a lot of use in those worlds. SAR and RA usually have more specialized equipment. This is a recreational device.

The Pinch is listed under the professional side of the Edelrid website, and the device has EN 12841 cert.

J Cwrote:

The Pinch is listed under the professional side of the Edelrid website, and the device has EN 12841 cert.

Cool, but I don’t usually trust people whose initials are J C.

Fair... good thing trust doesn't play a role here

https://edelrid.com/us-en/professional/descenders-shop/pinch?sort=new_desc&filter%5Bkategorie_id%5D%5B0%5D=83&variant=4184339

J Cwrote:

Fair... good thing trust doesn't play a role here

https://edelrid.com/us-en/professional/descenders-shop/pinch?sort=new_desc&filter%5Bkategorie_id%5D%5B0%5D=83&variant=4184339

Idk, J C’s are still shifty in my book

My OHM 2 came in.  Pretty sweet.  Much more refined product, and the swivel is awesome.  

I'll see how it climbs on Friday. 

Looking forward to a full review after you've used it, Brad!  Particularly interested to know if it is worth shelling out for the upgrade if you already have the original OHM and haven't had any problems with it.

Exiled Michiganderwrote:

Looking forward to a full review after you've used it, Brad!  Particularly interested to know if it is worth shelling out for the upgrade if you already have the original OHM and haven't had any problems with it.

Yeah I've not really had any issues with the one. I can already tell the swivel will be nice so you're not twisting the dogbone when pulling. 

Is the Grigi work for left and right hand dominant person's? I believe this device is.

Chris Mwrote:

Is the Grigi work for left and right hand dominant person's? I believe this device is.

Don't you know that left handed people don't belay?

Chris Mwrote:

Is the Grigi work for left and right hand dominant person's? I believe this device is.

I mean the handle is still on the left.....So just like the GG, which lefties and righties use regularly.