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Another helicopter rescue on Tahquitz.

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

Just a single data point from this article:

For North Shore Rescue, the province's busiest volunteer SAR group, only two of the 139 rescue operations last year involved out-of-bounds skiers. Province-wide, they represented about three percent, he said.

"They are not the ones driving search and rescue. They are not the ones driving the cost," Davies said. 

Most NSR rescues were for hikers lost or injured on the many marked and legal trails in the North Shore mountains.

Another category of rescue is for "urban walkaways" including lost children, seniors with dementia  and "desperate youth". 

"When I started following this issue I was struck by the fact that every week there was another missing senior."  

I wonder what the statistics are like for Tahquitz.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
apogeewrote:

Years ago, in order to legitimately climb Snow Creek (N face of San Jacinto), the Superintendent of San Jacinto State Park required a climbing resume to obtain a permit- the rationale was the expense and risk of rescues on that side of the mountain.

Here's a point many people miss. There's no public lands liability for recreation. However, the minute a public agency begins vetting people through a qualification process (as opposed to, say, a lottery) that creates liability for the agency. Because if you screen peoples' climbing resume, for example, and give them a permit for Snow Creek, you are de facto endorsing that they are qualified to climb Snow Creek. When they then go up there a die in an avalanche, their family can legitimately sue the agency who granted the permit. And, no, making them sign a release doesn't make the liability go away. 

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
apogeewrote:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CyaIK32uptG/

This instagram video is amazing. I've been nearby to a chopper rescue but, knock on wood, never directly involved. Seeing it from the rescuer's POV is awesome. 

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

"This instagram video is amazing. I've been nearby to a chopper rescue but, knock on wood, never directly involved. Seeing it from the rescuer's POV is awesome. "

You'll likely enjoy this, too:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ543EDXj8o

Diego Climber · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 1

FK permits and licensing . Permits are nearly here . Next they will only be guided climbs . Are you a guide or ranger? Smrz, has your frat climbing climb SCMA made it easier to become a member? In the past it was only possible if current members referred and allowed newbies  in. After the class , test and five page application . 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
apogeewrote:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CyaIK32uptG/

Friday's helo rescue was on Whodunnit- from the location, looks like the guy fell in/near the chimney pitch.

I stumbled across the Youtube version so thought I would post the link:

 

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Such a perfect example of a high risk solution to a low risk problem.

Rescue 9 loves their toys, and will want to use them any time they can.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
apogeewrote:

Such a perfect example of a high risk solution to a low risk problem.

Rescue 9 loves their toys, and will want to use them any time they can.

Are you criticizing rescue personal? They’re out there doing God’s work! 

Andy Shoemaker · · Bremerton WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 35

The low risk option is sending a team of 12+ rescuers to rig and execute a high angle lower and and mono wheel haul out?  

Or the low risk option is an unplanned semi hanging bivy w/ an untrained provider and a patient w/ a long bone fx and then self rescuing?

Or the low risk option is gym climb only?

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

It was an unstable ankle injury, ferchrissakes. And two very conscious, functional people. What would you do if you were in that situation, and had no option for assistance? Believe it or not, there’s a very long history of climber self sufficiency.

But hey…Rescue 9 is only too happy to oblige, at the risk of the crewmembers, and the expense of the taxpayers. 

Andy Shoemaker · · Bremerton WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 35

I liked this part of your comment.

apogeewrote:

What would you do if you were in that situation, and had no option for assistance?

What's your low risk solution to a situation like this?

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Is that a troll (obvious troll) question? Do you have any idea how many unstable ankle injuries like this have occurred at Tahquitz (or any other crag, for that matter) over the years that have self-rescued, or perhaps with the assistance of other climbers?

There is a perfectly functional rack, rope and partner here, about 3 pitches up. Does this really need an explanation?

David Katz · · Calabasas, CA · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 1,056

I just watched the video and it became obvious the climbers had no business being there in the first place when the girl admitted she didn’t know how to rappel back to the ground and also needed to be airlifted out. 

Andy Shoemaker · · Bremerton WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 35
apogeewrote:

Is that a troll (obvious troll) question? Do you have any idea how many unstable ankle injuries like this have occurred at Tahquitz (or any other crag, for that matter) over the years that have self-rescued, or perhaps with the assistance of other climbers?

There is a perfectly functional rack, rope and partner here, about 3 pitches up. Does this really need an explanation?

Your solution is for them to turn back time and get properly prepared for the day with self rescue skills.  A time machine sounds more complex than any other option.

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,142
apogeewrote:

unstable ankle injuries like this have occurred at Tahquitz (or any other crag, for that matter) over the years that have self-rescued, or perhaps with the assistance of other climbers?

There is a perfectly functional rack, rope and partner here, about 3 pitches up. Does this really need an explanation?

My partner broke her ankle 4 pitches up a wall in Red Rock.  With the assistance of the team following us (pooling ropes, me lowering her, them helping at each belay), we got down and self-rescued down the approach talus (butt-scooting was involved), then (two people on each side supporting her when it turned to trail). Over a mile total. No special skills were involved, except maybe me knowing how to move the knot down during raps to prevent issues when pulling ropes on a route that is not typically rapped. Way too may people go up on stuff without understanding basic self-rescue options. In another thread some years ago about 2 people who were rescued on Tahquitz when they got off route, I explained the concept of "down-leading" (downclimbing with gear preplaced by the lowered first team member)  to one of the climbing team, and he said that they would have been able to do that and would have done that rather than spend the night and get rescued the next day, if they had known the technique.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
David Katzwrote:

I just watched the video and it became obvious the climbers had no business being there in the first place when the girl admitted she didn’t know how to rappel back to the ground and also needed to be airlifted out. 

She probably knew how to rap just not from that spot. Rapping off routes on Tah without intimate knowledge of the anchor situation would be a tricky endeavor.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
Tradibanwrote:

She probably knew how to rap just not from that spot. Rapping off routes on Tah without intimate knowledge of the anchor situation would be a tricky endeavor.

In an emergency the anchor situation is moot. One does what they need to get down which may mean leaving gear. 

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Allen Sandersonwrote:

In an emergency the anchor situation is moot. One does what they need to get down which may mean leaving gear. 

Well duh but it’s not her fault her partner got jacked up, the least the heli crew could do is give her lift.

Yoda Jedi Knight · · Sandpoint, ID · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

There's a dozen things they could have done differently. Not really worth arguing about it.

Obligatory mention of David Fasulo's book Self-Rescue. It's the most straightforward approach to the topic IMO. But knowing the methods is only the first part. You must go out and practice them if you want to actually learn what to do. Past that, it's always worth checking what routes are next to your intended route that you might be able to rap or aid if needed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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