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Best offwidths in the southeast for training for freerider?

Original Post
Jacob Ward · · Asheville · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 199

Looking to climb routes that most closely resemble the monster and the Scotty Burke ow pitches. So #5-7 camalot sized splitties, ideally that you climb left side in. Closer to Asheville is preferred, but I'll do some driving to get to the good stuff wherever it is. Any suggestions?

Blaine Hartness · · North Carolina · Joined May 2021 · Points: 126

Useless #8 at Eagle Rock maybe? Although I think the offwidth is very short. There are probably offwidths in the Linville Gorge you can string a TR up on as well, just not sure any are documented. Some at Rumbling Bald too, I think someone recently posted about some in the Facebook climbing group for Western NC. 

David Eisenstadt · · Johnson City · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0

There is 5 foot of offwidth on cracked actor at lower Leda in Chattanooga. 

John Wheeler · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0

Can't think of any off the top of my head. Looking around suck creek and twall in Chattanooga may be fruitful though. 

Danny Bell · · Buford, GA · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 369

Body glove at stone fort is good. Similax crack at big rock SC. Although the best example I can think of is fat crack at Boatrock in Georgia. I have a video on YouTube. It’s a V4 that’s on you from the start to the top of the 20-25’ crack. You can set up a top rope using a tree. If you can get to the point that you can run laps back to back on fat crack than I think you’ll be ready for the monster. 

Danny Birchman · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 171

There's an off width next to confetti fingers and rainbow delta at upper passes. Of vice and men at Twall. Lost arrow chimney at sunset. Temple of doom at sunset. Sunny side of real has some wide cracks. Laurel Falls has one but I only know people who've done it and personally don't know where it is or what it's called. Liberator at big Soddy is good and light for 10+ from what I remember.

Nate Slavin · · Columbus, OH · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 20

Don't know how far you want to stray concerning rock type, but Yuk at RRG is relatively splitter #5-8.

Eric Bull · · Scottsville VA · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

If you’re willing to hike in, there are some great off-width at Old rag.

Maxwell Hvolbek · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 10

As others mentioned there’s lots of great wide cracks in the North RRG. Particularly muscle beach crag. 

Rob Owens · · Columbus, NC · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 604

Might not be as hard as you are looking for but Shits and Grins and Dog Eat Dog are decent off widths. (behind Test Pilots and the Kennel) Dog Eat Dog off width is only 5.9 and I did it right side in. Shits and Grins is listed as 5.11 but I don't think it was near that hard. Takes 2 or 3 sixes and 2 fives.

Ian Yoon · · Washington DC · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 6

late to this thread but was wondering if anyone has leads on the off width climbs of old rag, don't have the guidebook currently.

Bryan L · · VA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 257
Ian Yoonwrote:

late to this thread but was wondering if anyone has leads on the off width climbs of old rag, don't have the guidebook currently.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106006429/banana-crack

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106498723/good-friday

Here are two right next to each other, though the season for getting down there is coming to an end as we get into the growing season.

chummer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 1,055

inhibitor at the red is a good trainer. laps would def improve ow skill and fitness. 

minimum wage at obed is a pretty good chimney/ow too. 

Ti ck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 2,470

double d at wildcat? 


i heard an old timer say

Reflections, double d and the OR is the southerner’s Yosemite prep course

Tried to do all three in a day once lol “tried”

Pumpkin town at Table rock SC has one right of whacky werewolf that I don’t think has seen a free ascent, the face climbing at the start is very hard

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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