New Edelrid Belay Device the " Pinch"

Brad Johnsonwrote:

Gotcha, I saw an article that said February.  

I just heard back from one of my contacts in the industry. The Ohm II should be arriving in stores very soon. It's expected in their distribution centers this week.

Thomas Worshamwrote:

I found it for sale. ASK is a a reputable company but I dont know if this is just a pre-order listing or if they have available inventory.

https://www.asktowersupply.com/edelrid-pinch?utm_term=&utm_campaign=**LP+pMax+-+All+Products&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=4899319219&hsa_cam=18396892939&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA_OetBhAtEiwAPTeQZ1bbVV2Ve-SDUBEFHpW7IAQiS_71igti7Gumf-VYhzLy2Sa8Kk7xHxoC204QAvD_BwE

Another online store says it is preorder with delivery starting in May for a small number of orders. 

In this video @1:40 they demonstrate fixed point lead belaying with it, with a high force caveat. Im surprised they mention FPLB, let alone condone it. 

https://youtu.be/rYgt2xXZchw?si=8GDWnaqMU6owqHi-

I appreciate that they have emulated the same feed motions as the grigri when giving slack quickly. I have a Birdie that is terrible to use and give slack quickly.

Alec Bakerwrote:

 Im surprised they mention FPLB, let alone condone it. 

Why? It's becoming an increasingly popular or at least publicized technique. 

Some info. on FPLB

PWZwrote:

Why? It's becoming an increasingly popular or at least publicized technique. 

Because you want slip through the device/ Munter hitch to add some dynamic nature to the catch. An ABD can't do that. With a static point instead of a human counterweight that can pulled up, a FPLB catch on an ABD would be rather hard on the climber. 

The Pinch is an ABD with no non-assisted mode, so it's strange to see Edelrid say you can do a FPLB with it, even if they have a bit of caution included. 

Adam Flemingwrote:

Because you want slip through the device/ Munter hitch to add some dynamic nature to the catch. An ABD can't do that. With a static point instead of a human counterweight that can pulled up, a FPLB catch on an ABD would be rather hard on the climber. 

The Pinch is an ABD with no non-assisted mode, so it's strange to see Edelrid say you can do a FPLB with it, even if they have a bit of caution included. 

Maybe because with rope in the system it's not nearly as bad as you make it out to be

There are videos of fixed point belay tests measuring impact force showing in some circumstances FPLB has a lower impact force than the common belay method. 

climber patwrote:

There are videos of fixed point belay tests measuring impact force showing in some circumstances FPLB has a lower impact force than the common belay method. 

Can you share any data or videos of ABD’s used with FPLB?

Alec Bakerwrote:

Can you share any data or videos of ABD’s used with FPLB?

My google foo seems inadequate to find the video again.  It was in French if that helps and the testing was done in a gym.  There was also a thread here on mountain project about it.

The general idea was that when a the leader takes a severe fall (severe enough to lift the belayer a lot and fast, not the typical hop of a soft catch) the impact force on the rope peaks when the belayer is stopped by his connection to the anchor.   The force at this instant is higher than expected because a lot of the dynamic properties of the rope have already been used before this happens.  The force when when the belayer was stopped was much higher than when the belayer used a fixed point belay.

Looks like the OHM II is popping up at a few online retailers.  Shouldn't be long now. 

climber patwrote:

My google foo seems inadequate to find the video again.  

Noel Z wrote:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v==ygUVRnJlbmNoIGJlbGF5IHJlc2VhcmNo

Not ABD specific. 

So you don’t have any examples to share regarding ABD’s used with FPLB?

Alec Bakerwrote:

So you don’t have any examples to share regarding ABD’s used with FPLB?

I think the standard use of a BFS technique with non-Bilateral ABDs like Gri Gris generally conforms with the IBS recommendation for belay technique.

This video is the only other demonstration of an ABD used in FPLB that I’m aware of, but it’s worth noting that the device doesn’t operate with a spring loaded cam that could become disengaged by the device getting pinched into the rock, and the instructional booklet doesn’t have any mention of using it as an ABD in FPLB

https://youtu.be/l6ysWgKjnlY?si=Q0h9Vf2qTu3_Ghv3 

Alec Bakerwrote:

This video is the only demonstration of an ABD used in FPLB that I’m aware of, but it’s worth noting that the device doesn’t operate with a spring loaded cam that could become disengaged by the device getting pinched into the rock, and the instructional booklet doesn’t have any mention of using it as an ABD in FPLB

https://youtu.be/l6ysWgKjnlY?si=Q0h9Vf2qTu3_Ghv3 

But will the user be able to unintentionally disengage the SLC since the tension is rated greater that the IBS standard? I am mostly worried that the device hasn’t been tested to GNFU levels

If one uses AVJ (appropriately vague jargon) to highlight BSD (bullshit devices) then these threads will go on forever, a vendors/sales rep dream come true..

clifffwrote:

If one uses AVJ (appropriately vague jargon) to highlight BSD (bullshit devices) then these threads will go on forever, a vendors/sales rep dream come true..

This is serious. If you are going to just poke fun at serious safety concerns, then please go away or I will start flagging your posts for IRMTF (intentionally ruining my troll fun).

but seriously, what is FPLB or whatever that dude is going on about? Am i gunna die if I don’t know?

PL edit: are y’all suddenly european?

John Clarkwrote:

This is serious. If you are going to just poke fun at serious safety concerns, then please go away or I will start flagging your posts for IRMTF (intentionally ruining my troll fun).

but seriously, what is FPLB or whatever that dude is going on about? Am i gunna die if I don’t know?

Fixed Point Lead Belay