New Edelrid Belay Device the " Pinch"

I was just saying the average MP form rat is more invested in climbing than the average climber, I dont think that is unreasonable!

I will wait for the neox

Have been using one recently.

Feels well-made as you’d expect from Edelrid  

Paying out slack is smoother than any of the GriGris. This alone is almost enough to make me consider getting one.

The no carabiner attachment feels weird to start with but you rapidly get used to it, including racking it on your harness. I’m still slightly suspicious of it and wonder if it could be released accidentally in some strange circumstance. Highly unlikely but I await the inevitable Yann Camus video.

The no carabiner attachment doesn’t work with a beefy (>3/4”) belay loop as you might find on some metolius harnesses. The edges of the attachment plates feel like they might cause wear to fabric belay loops. This might just be my vivid imagination, I’ve not used if for very long. It feels like it might work best with a Petzl ring or similar, perhaps betraying its roots as a device for rope access workers.

The panic feature is a pain but can be easily ‘switched off’.

I won’t be selling my GriGri 3 but I’d certainly consider a Pinch if I needed to replace it.  

duncan...wrote:

Have been using one recently.

Feels well-made as you’d expect from Edelrid  

Paying out slack is smoother than any of the GriGris. This alone is almost enough to make me consider getting one.

The no carabiner attachment feels weird to start with but you rapidly get used to it, including racking it on your harness. I’m still slightly suspicious of it and wonder if it could be released accidentally in some strange circumstance. Highly unlikely but I await the inevitable Yann Camus video.

The no carabiner attachment doesn’t work with a beefy (>3/4”) belay loop as you might find on some metolius harnesses. The edges of the attachment plates feel like they might cause wear to fabric belay loops. This might just be my vivid imagination, I’ve not used if for very long. It feels like it might work best with a Petzl ring or similar, perhaps betraying its roots as a device for rope access workers.

The panic feature is a pain but can be easily ‘switched off’.

I won’t be selling my GriGri 3 but I’d certainly consider a Pinch if I needed to replace it.  

Have you had any issues with the pinch grabbing when giving slack like the birdie does? I know that is a common issue with GriGri clones but the birdie seems like it is the worst one yet. I could see a possible failure mode with opening if you try and hook your thumb under the device to give slack quickly but I dont know what the spring tension on the latch button is. I would love to be able to get my hands on one to play with before they go into production.

I got to use a Pinch during sneak preview in Austria today. We belayed using brand new skinny ropes so I didn't need to thumb the cam to pay out slack. With that said, using a rope that new and thin, I wouldn't of had to thumb a GriGri either. I can't say if the cam's geometry holds something better in store. 

I'm completely baffled about why now? ABDs with cams have been around for such a long time and Edelrid hasn't brought anything new here. It is fine, but even if I received a free one, I'd still use my GriGri III/2019. Even the Mad Rock Lifeguard is smoother. Petzl brings the Neox out in the first quater of 2024 with an innovative wheeled cam and Edelrid releases this? I don't get it, Edelrid is a prentender for what exactly?  

Noel Zwrote:

...

I'm completely baffled about why now? ABDs with cams have been around for such a long time and Edelrid hasn't brought anything new here.

I don't understand why this would be baffling -- unless you were raised in North Korea. Introducing new products of near-identical function in existing proven markets is, like, 95% of market capitalism.

The way you complain about this... It just kinda makes you sound like a long day, man.

Have there been any updates on when this is hitting the market?

Thomas Worshamwrote:

Have there been any updates on when this is hitting the market?

I was told it's this Spring, but that was coming secondhand from a guide who heard it from an Edelrid rep. So basically just a rumor.

i can’t understand the desire to test new devices unless you’re getting paid for it. and even then, how many failure modes, poor craftsmanship or recalls are uncovered by the mass market?

petzl logicwrote:

i can’t understand the desire to test new devices unless you’re getting paid for it. and even then, how many failure modes, poor craftsmanship or recalls are uncovered by the mass market?

I can't understand why my spending habits are your concern.

petzl logicwrote:

i can’t understand the desire to test new devices unless you’re getting paid for it. and even then, how many failure modes, poor craftsmanship or recalls are uncovered by the mass market?

Well, everybody's always glad when YOU join the party, Captain Buzzkill.

In actual fact, climbing gear recalls are LEAST likely to occur when brand new models hit the market, because gear makers usually invest a considerable amount of extra quality-control into new launches. New gear designs often take years to bring into production, with lots of fixed time delays for mandatory certification procedures -- so there's rarely any reason for a gear maker to rush.

Recall issues are far more common with mature products, later in their lifecycle, when gear companies make changes to their production process. New suppliers, new assembly operations, etc are the most common source of recall-worthy quality control failures.

Now, there are plenty of new products that just don't go over well with the public, for various reasons -- perfectly safe & well made, but just not to the majority's preferences.

But a more thoughtful person than you might have realized that different folks have different preferences. It's impossible to find what works best for each of us without individually exploring the available options.

I'm just glad that most folks aren't as paralyzed by fear of the unknown as you seem to be... What a terrible world THAT would be!

grigri 2 release 2011 | recall 2011

tango virgo release late 2016 | recall early 2017

revo release date 2017 | recall 2017

it happens with all gear. there is no product testing that will ever exceed bringing something to market. 

eta: sorry for the facts. i learned my lesson when a friend with brand new gear took a 400m slide as an involuntary product tester. when i saw how common this was as noted above, i became more safety conscious. you do you. 

petzl logicwrote:

grigri 2 release 2011 | recall 2011

tango virgo release late 2016 | recall early 2017

revo release date 2017 | recall 2017

OK -- but how many recalls did you count up, for belay devices *LATER* in their product lifecycle? Say, more than 2 years after initial launch?

Your argument rests on the proposition that one quantity is more than another -- so just telling us about the early recalls is only half of the story. You haven't proven anything, yet.

We will need to know how many belay devices saw early recalls, AS WELL AS how many saw later recalls.

Let me know when you count all those up, and look up their recall dates... If you need a starting point, there's at least a hundred belay devices listed here:

https://weighmyrack.com/belay-device

You people are really complicating climbing gear testing. After all, it is so easy a dead man can do it. Albeit, only once, but they always seem to find the defective product

petzl logicwrote:

grigri 2 release 2011 | recall 2011

tango virgo release late 2016 | recall early 2017

revo release date 2017 | recall 2017

it happens with all gear. there is no product testing that will ever exceed bringing something to market. 

eta: sorry for the facts. i learned my lesson when a friend with brand new gear took a 400m slide as an involuntary product tester. when i saw how common this was as noted above, i became more safety conscious. you do you. 

I am curious to know what the device was and why it caused such a catastrophic failure.

Thomas Worshamwrote:

I am curious to know what the device was and why it caused such a catastrophic failure.

I looked up a couple of those recalls he mentioned... Most of them seemed like they were precautionary recalls, not the result of a harmful accident.

Anyone seen the pinch or ohm for sale yet? 

Brad Johnsonwrote:

Anyone seen the pinch or ohm for sale yet? 

The Pinch: No, ask again in the spring, probably late spring.

The Ohm: Yes, it's been sold in gear shops and online for quite a few years now.

The Ohm II: No, ask again in the spring, probably late spring.

Khoiwrote:

The Pinch: No, ask again in the spring, probably late spring.

The Ohm: Yes, it's been sold in gear shops and online for quite a few years now.

The Ohm II: No, ask again in the spring, probably late spring.

Gotcha, I saw an article that said February.  

I found it for sale. ASK is a a reputable company but I dont know if this is just a pre-order listing or if they have available inventory.

https://www.asktowersupply.com/edelrid-pinch?utm_term=&utm_campaign=**LP+pMax+-+All+Products&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=4899319219&hsa_cam=18396892939&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA_OetBhAtEiwAPTeQZ1bbVV2Ve-SDUBEFHpW7IAQiS_71igti7Gumf-VYhzLy2Sa8Kk7xHxoC204QAvD_BwE