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Valdez ice partners

Original Post
Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 730

Hey, 

I'm thinking of heading up to that area at the end of February. Debating bringing ice gear or not... a lot would depend on whether or not I could find people to climb with. I've never been to the area and I don't know what the "scene" is like. 

I'm an experienced ice climber, safe, pretty fast , I can lead 5s in any kind of condition, 6 if it's sticky and fat (which I imagine is rarely the case in Valdez). Experienced with multipitch Ice. Not very good at mixed climbing- I can do short, straightforward sections but it's definitely not my forte! 

I'd love any beta or insights for Valdez and/or potential partnerships! 

Thanks, 

Ira 

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

I’d say definitely bring your gear! I’m sure you could hook up with a local or another visiting party, especially climbing those grades. 

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

You also might have a better chance at finding partners on the Alaskaiceclimbing.com Facebook group. 

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 730

Damn, I don't use Facebook! Every so often I really wish I did... 

Pat Marrinan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 25

Valdez is an amazing ice venue, make it happen if you have the chance!! Finding partners during the fest should be easy, not fest IDK. That fb group is very active, might be worth making an account just for it. 

The ice in Valdez is both fat and sticky, and very close to the car. Only place ive climbed more ice for less effort is Ouray. Feel free to message if you have any specific questions. All in all, do it!!

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 730

I think I'd be going there right after the fest.... 

Sticky ice sounds great! I was imagining very cold conditions. 

Pat Marrinan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 25

That's what I expected, but it is coastal! Was there right around this time last year and probably average temps of 15-20ºF. Mornings before the sun hit and the windy days were definitely chilly, but was not the arctic experience I expected for sure. 

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 730

That's good to hear Pat, thanks! 

I'm gonna give this a little bump with dates, I'll be arriving in Anchorage on the 25th of February and leaving the 5th of March. This is mostly a ski trip and a chance for my friend and traveling companion to reconnect with friends in the Homer area. I'll have some flexibility so if anyone wants to try and link up, please reach out! 

Also, is there other places to climb ice closer to the Kinai peninsula?? 

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

There is ice on the Peninsula, but it’s been quite warm the last week and not sure what’s in. Closest thing to Homer without the bluffs (requires very cold temps as it’s right on the ocean) being In would be Seward.


https://alaskaiceclimbing.com/kenai-peninsula/ 

ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50

Let me know if ya need partners. I’m outta Fairbanks at the moment but could shoot down. Just left Valdez 2 days ago was raining for 2 days in the canyon, things seemed to hold up well though 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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