Like Fingernails on a Chalkbag

The ' I'm in direct' discussion is interesting--I don't think that it is necessarily an inappropriate 'communication' ( presuming both climber and belayer understand what is meant by the phrase). Currently there is often an 'intermediate step' between on and off-belay, especially in situations where members of a party are following or top-roping after the pitch has been led. In such situations, and also when multiple people in a group will be leading and lowering, the correct procedure is for the original leader to put in his own quick draws instead of repeatedly lowering or belaying through the anchors. In such situations, when the final climber gets to the belay point, they need to put the rope through the anchor itself before lowering. For those anchors that need to be threaded ( still the majority of anchors), the last climber will need to attach themself to the anchor before untying, threading, and tying in again or getting on rappel. If they will be rappelling, then saying "off belay" is appropriate. However, if the intention is for them to be lowered, then saying 'off belay" could lead to dangerous miscommunication. In that situation, saying 'in direct' seems to be a very reasonable way to communicate to the belayer that the climber is currently attached to the anchor, but should not be taken off belay. As stated previously, 'in direct' is also a useful communication while a leader is 'working' a route bolt to bolt.

Alan Rubin wrote:

The ' I'm in direct' discussion is interesting--I don't think that it is necessarily an inappropriate 'communication' ( presuming both climber and belayer understand what is meant by the phrase). Currently there is often an 'intermediate step' between on and off-belay, especially in situations where members of a party are following or top-roping after the pitch has been led. In such situations, and also when multiple people in a group will be leading and lowering, the correct procedure is for the original leader to put in his own quick draws instead of repeatedly lowering or belaying through the anchors. In such situations, when the final climber gets to the belay point, they need to put the rope through the anchor itself before lowering. For those anchors that need to be threaded ( still the majority of anchors), the last climber will need to attach themself to the anchor before untying, threading, and tying in again or getting on rappel. If they will be rappelling, then saying "off belay" is appropriate. However, if the intention is for them to be lowered, then saying 'off belay" could lead to dangerous miscommunication. In that situation, saying 'in direct' seems to be a very reasonable way to communicate to the belayer that the climber is currently attached to the anchor, but should not be taken off belay. As stated previously, 'in direct' is also a useful communication while a leader is 'working' a route bolt to bolt.

Disagree here Alan.  You (climber at the anchor) don't need to say anything during the threading phase (well maybe "slack/take").  The less said the better.  (my life's philosophy, but I digress..) .

No one has even gotten into the "on you/me" phrase yet

When a store calls a climbing gear(like belay glasses, gloves, and skin care) "Essentials". shoes(and harness depending on who you are) are Essentials 

*cough REI cough*

When someone equates the height of a climb with its difficulty.

Its usually people who dont know anything about climbing but they'll say something like wow they must be really strong they're doing the big wall. The "big wall" could be a 2 pitch 5.6.

I was at the crag once when the person belaying on the next route over said something along those lines and I just thought I'm glad hes not belaying me.

Mark Pilate wrote:

And this is the door they use to let you out of the gym and out into the world…

(I’m just sayin’ they need to know how to down climb ;)

now now everyone, clearly it's a traverse 

When someone is described as a "big" climber. Oh yeah, how big are they? 12 feet tall, wide as a car!

Saying that you "did" a mountain or area. No, you climbed a route(s). It's not like you conquered it but you really just climbed it.

Agreed, trad as a verb gets to me too. "You going to go trad?"

“Climb” as a noun — as in “Look at all these climbs in the area!” “I did a hard climb yesterday.”

They’re “routes”!!!! (or problems)

Uptalk gets to me, as does vocal fry.

Ry C wrote:

“Climb” as a noun — as in “Look at all these climbs in the area!” “I did a hard climb yesterday.”

They’re “routes”!!!! (or problems)

I have a problem with your "routes"

Rig

Quickness

“Walling”
 

Just…uh, 

NO!

Sam Ehmann wrote:

Brand new people or the birthday party crowd calling indoor climbing holds “rocks.”

Right. We all know they are called "grips".

Ry C wrote:

“Climb” as a noun — as in “Look at all these climbs in the area!” “I did a hard climb yesterday.”

They’re “routes”!!!! (or problems)

It’s not at all an unusual word form:

To run, running, a run

To bake, baking, a bake ( viz. clambake)

To knit, knitting, a knit

To ride, riding, a ride

To swim, swimming, a swim  

Etc. 

phylp phylp wrote:

It’s not at all an unusual word form:

To run, running, a run

To bake, baking, a bake ( viz. clambake)

To knit, knitting, a knit

To ride, riding, a ride

To swim, swimming, a swim  

Etc. 

I'm having flashbacks to memorizing conjugations in 7th grade Latin class. Please don't rap my knuckles (or lower off them, or belay down them, for that matter).

"Do you know who set this route?" when climbing outside 

Aaron Kolb wrote:

"Do you know who set this route?" when climbing outside 

Set is an easy answer, FA they’d need a guide book   

They’re “routes”!!!!

Yes but do you pronounce it root or rouwt? Because I have a problem with one of them (but I can't remember which, so try me!)

“Setting the route”. I’ve heard it in two wrong contexts:

1. a guy saying “I set this route”, meaning that he hung the draws. (I actually corrected him… not in a rude way. I wasn’t trying to be didactic, or anything. I was just confused for a second, when he said it to me, and when I processed what he was saying, I was like, oh, you mean you hung the draws?”

He turned it into a multi day argument, taking about it all day long, bringing it up the following week, and then messaging me about it.) 

2. “The setter put that bolt too high”— meaning the bolter/FA.

“Flash” for anything other than climbing the route clean on the first try, with some beta.

I hear this one a bunch. “I  flashed that route on my 3rd try”.

There was actually one time when a gym employee watched my friend dog a route at the gym for a period of time. Then asked her after she came down. “ Did you flash that route, I didn’t see the end?” My friend said, no, I hung. To which the gym employee responded, “yeah, I saw you hang at the 3rd bolt, but did you flash it to the top?”

Drederek wrote:

I assume we’ll all be runners when they try to lock us up in a home someday.  The whole “dirt me” thing is rather hilarious in the gym. 

I hate that saying so much (indoors or out). It makes me irrationally angry.