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Offset cams and horizontal cracks

Original Post
Nicolas Hemelsoet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2023 · Points: 0

Are offset cams better than ordinary cams in horizontal cracks? If yes, it is better to put the bigger cam at the bottom or at the top?

Bonus : what if the crack is diagonal? 

(I've been told about this but unfortunately forgot). 

Brooks K · · Montreal · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 5

 If placed in a horizontal crack, an offset cam is not bigger on top or bottom. It would be bigger to the left or right. The offset would be better than a normal cam only if the crack is tapering left or right. What you’re referring to is the common advice of placing the wider lobes of a normal cam on the bottom in a horizontal placement for more stability. This does not apply to offset cams because the direction of the crack taper dictates the offset cam orientation. You can’t just flip an offset cam like a normal cam- the big/small lobes would then switch.


For a diagonal crack, it depends on the angle and the flare/taper.  The angle of the diagonal changes the direction of pull.  But in general, the taper or flare of a crack will dictate the need for an offset cam, not the angle of the crack. 


Nicolas Hemelsoet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2023 · Points: 0

Ah of course that was a silly question, many thanks for the explanation :) 

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 4,128

Not a silly question! I am sure people will benefit from seeing this in the future

LL2 · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 174
Camdon Kaywrote:

Not a silly question! I am sure people will benefit from seeing this in the future

That was possibly the single most informative answer ever on MP. we could use more of those.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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