New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #27

Brandt Allenwrote:

Well, I'm really brave on top-rope so maybe it wouldn't be so bad.

Aren’t we all? Interesting day indoor bouldering today. Went with three other guys, all younger than I (about 25, 30, 40), all generally stronger than I. But with one boulder the first move to a wide LH crimpy gaston stumped them all. I could do it easily, although I couldn’t commit to a hard move half way up. Interesting how the move felt quite easy for me but they felt it to be very hard. They ended skipping the hold and using their height to gain the next hold. I always find it interesting how there’s a much variability in climbing, it’s very much about pulleys and levers. The length of bones etc. 

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Aren’t we all? Interesting day indoor bouldering today. When with three other guys, all younger than I (about 25, 30, 40), all generally stronger than I. But with one boulder the first move to a wide LH crimpy gaston stumped them all. I could do it easily, although I couldn’t commit to a hard move half way up. Interesting how the move felt quite easy for me but they felt it to be very hard. They ended skipping the hold and using their hight to gain the next hold. I always find it interesting how there’s a much variability in climbing, it’s very much about pulleys and levers. The length of bones etc. 

or strength of fingers.

Cool showing up those young climbers!   

Congratulations, Lori, on doing a route that you were so excited about!

Li Huwrote:

or strength of fingers.

Cool showing up those young climbers!   

They were complaining about their shoulders rather than their fingers. 

wendy weisswrote:

Erika, sorry to hear about your long recovery. You'd be welcome as my guest at the BRC. I'm still not leading though. My surgeon says it will still be awhile before my bones fuse.

Wendy - I’d love to meet up! Also happy to reciprocate if you’d like to come to G1 sometime! Let’s connect - I can usually get out during the day if I plan ahead. I love BRC - haven’t been there in years. 

Congratulations Lori! It’s a great feeling to have that success - you’ve worked hard for it!

I know. Phenomenal!

What they said.

Meeting more fellow fingerboard enthusiasts at the gym. We discussed what sort of progress we should see, which tools to use, etc.

Did more full hold open grip at 45, 70 and 90 pound added weight intervals. Started 1 arm hangs with no added weight. Did 8 single rung static campus pulls on the full grip campus. Will continue to work on the 1 arm transitions from hand to hang the static campus pulls for now until I can feel enough power reserved in my arms, with my current 120 degree bend at the elbow, for a dynamic move. Shoulders are pulled down so I’m using only muscles to hold my positions.

Up and down climbed a few V3 and a V4. Working a few V5 to V6, but the main thrust this week is to get used to the static campus board and 1 arm hangs/pulls.

Li Huwrote:

Meeting more fellow fingerboard enthusiasts at the gym. We discussed what sort of progress we should see, which tools to use, etc.

Did more full hold open grip at 45, 70 and 90 pound added weight intervals. Started 1 arm hangs with no added weight. Did 8 single rung static campus pulls on the full grip campus. Will continue to work on the 1 arm transitions from hand to hang the static campus pulls for now until I can feel enough power reserved in my arms, with my current 120 degree bend at the elbow, for a dynamic move. Shoulders are pulled down so I’m using only muscles to hold my positions.

Up and down climbed a few V3 and a V4. Working a few V5 to V6, but the main thrust this week is to get used to the static campus board and 1 arm hangs/pulls.

How long have you been climbing?

Thank you for the cheers everyone. I really appreciate it.

I took a while to reflect on this climb.  I think with a little time I can climb it clean, and it’s such an inspiring rock. What I am really thinking about is that upper headwall where I do not recall a single crimp or edge, no jug, obviously.  Picture sheer vertical rock with no holds. And if that one’s hard, I can only imagine how much harder that face on the Decompensator is.  I’ll have to bring game for sure.

Some people here can climb those walls at that level and more, and I’d like to get better at it. My tendency is to put my full palm on the wall and press in with my fingers. That only takes me so far. So Ironically, what I need for these sheer face climbs is more finger and pulldown strength.  

There is also a long vertical crack on this wall that is real cushy up to a certain point, and then it peters out into kind of a trough. I had a tough time doing a lay back there (more upper body strength), so there are a lot of things to work on.  

Russ Wallingwrote:

How long have you been climbing?

A year, but I climbed for over 25 years decades ago. My ligaments seem to be strong, but I’m extremely careful loading them.

Li Huwrote:

A year, but I climbed for over 25 years decades ago. My ligaments seem to be strong, but I’m extremely careful loading them.

Roger that.  I believe that you are a big dude anyway, and acute training like that has been known to blow people up.  Glad you are being careful.  It's no fun being on the DL from a training injury.  It's way more fun to just deck or something and have a great story... "no shit... there I was...."

Lori Milaswrote:

Thank you for the cheers everyone. I really appreciate it.

I took a while to reflect on this climb.  I think with a little time I can climb it clean, and it’s such an inspiring rock. What I am really thinking about is that upper headwall where I do not recall a single crimp or edge, no jug, obviously.  Picture sheer vertical rock with no holds. And if that one’s hard, I can only imagine how much harder that face on the Decompensator is.  I’ll have to bring game for sure.

Some people here can climb that and I’d like to get better at it. My tendency is to put my full palm on the wall and press in with my fingers. That only takes me so far. So Ironically, what I need for these sheer face climbs is more finger and pulldown strength.  

There is also a long vertical crack on this wall that is real cushy up to a certain point, and then it peters out into kind of a trough. I had a tough time doing a lay back there (more upper body strength), so there are a lot of things to work on.  

It is inspiring. Very nicely done!

shoulder is pretty sore .. did a nice couple hours ski tour of Mt wishicouldtellya. 

a recent ice storm made all the tree branches sag. this is tough for our trails. 

the bever ponds are still awesome . sometimes I see moose up here

super special place. I drove by my sisters this evening

that's her dairy farm.

needed some cold therapy for the shoulder

it was pretty tough chopping the hole. 2inches of fresh ice since Friday

this is what it looked like friday. 

Nick, I'm not sure that the cold therapy for your shoulder balances out chopping the hole through the ice.

"no shit... there I was...." 

"couldn't go up... couldn't go down... didn't know what I was gonna do..."

oh man.

wendy weisswrote:

Nick, I'm not sure that the cold therapy for your shoulder balances out chopping the hole through the ice.

My thought exactly, Wendy! 

Thanks for the taste of VT, Nick, as always.

And go Lori! Badass

You could get surfers ear too. ^^

https://murpheysyosemite.com/live-webcam

i like this  lee vining webcam