Desire for a thicker rope - need advice

Perhaps my experience with the Mammut 9.9 workhorse is unusual, but my partner and I climbed Lurking Fear and the rope went from brand new to trash over the course of just the one big wall route (19 pitches).

Of course it handled wonderfully and was nice and soft but…

we’ve used the Beal Tiger 10.0 unicore rope with excellent success as well as an older 

10.4 Sterling (marathon?) rope that also handles well after lots of aid climbing and big wall shenanigans.

Both ropes handle great through our Gri Gri 2/3’s and our ATC’s.

Have brought both ropes sport whipping, trad cragging, and big walling extensively with no signs of wear yet.

I will also second that the Mammut 9.5 is the longest lasting rope in my quiver. 

Why not just get a gym designed rope? If it's purely for safety and peace of mind, why not just max the safety factor out? Wouldn't you feel more relaxed? 

Seems like the discussion is showing that 9.6 to 10m for cut resistance is just mental, so why not eliminate all your doubts and enjoy? 

We dont mind climbing on fat gym ropes do we?

I guess I figured they were designed differently? Also, do they sell gym ropes that are 70 meter plus? Do u know of a good one?

Thanks Alex for chiming in on the workhorse, I almost bought that one. Also, might be worth contacting Mammut warranty. When the infinity changed to crag 9.5, i got a crag 9.5 dry where the orange thread in the blue rooe (air splice) came out immediately, they sent a replacement and the same thing happened, so then they sent me the bi pattern, which I’ve yet to use. I think its good for them to get the feedback and make adjustments/adaptations as well as do right by the customer. 

Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

You could also consider using double ropes.

To expand on this, Edelrid has youtube video where they report 2 ropes are way better at resisting cutting than a fatter single rope.  Somehow halving the force is better than doubling the cross-section area (though you might have to find pure twin-rated ropes - as opposed to also half-rated - to keep the overall impact force on both ropes together comparable to a good single; otherwise the force won't be quite halved).

“though you might have to find pure twin-rated ropes - as opposed to also half-rated - to keep the overall impact force on both ropes together comparable to a good single; otherwise the force won't be quite halved).”

Not a thing.

Hi All, finally gonna go outside to some sport climbing with the 10.1 Mambo, psyched. Im totally open to the discussion on the double ropes, i always thought they were a pain to manage but if they are safer and stronger than a single line, then thats rad. I’m aware of running disparate gear with two ropes, but that the two ropes in unity would be stronger than a single line never occurred to me. 

I think you'll be stoked on the Mambo, it's a great rope. Have fun!

I wanted to follow up after having used the petzl mambo 10.1 rope for two days (i dont get out much these days). It handles like a dream, way better than any Mammut ive used. Feeds through the grigri wonderfully, at least right now as new. One negative thing I didn’t think about beforehand was the weight on a long pitch with some rope drag, my buddy led a full length sport pitch and was saying it was heavy to pull and clip. Finally, it gave me that psychological effect i was looking for, when hanging on it i felt nice and safe. I’ll be a thick rope guy from here on out, at least for applications when it makes sense. 

It's been stored in a dark closet, temps not over 70 degrees. . . .

I know OP has already bought their rope but for posterity will throw in another vote for the Beal Tiger. Immaculate rope, put easily 4-digit pitches onto my last one before having to retire it. I love Beal ropes across the board but the Tiger is an absolute workhorse and is my go-to daily driver.

I’m a Beal Tiger fan as well, just for the record and for anyone else contemplating a new rope purchase. Feels more like a 9.8 rather than the advertised 10.0 diameter and handles well. And it has Unicore, which I like even though there are wide ranging opinions on how much safer such technology might be. 

Edelrid Boa 9.8, no contest

Looks like Mammut's aramid-lined rope is hitting the market soon, which is 9.5, unlike the Edelrid one at 8.9.

It is backordered and says it is estimated to ship May 16th here: campsaver.com/mammut-9-5-al…

I'll probably get one of these since my current rope probably should be replaced soon.

Michael Cwrote:

Looks like Mammut's aramid-lined rope is hitting the market soon, which is 9.5, unlike the Edelrid one at 8.9.

It is backordered and says it is estimated to ship May 16th here: campsaver.com/mammut-9-5-al…

I'll probably get one of these since my current rope probably should be replaced soon.

You realize they have a 9.5 protect at edelrid right? 

https://edelrid.com/us-en/sport/ropes/eagle-lite-protect-pro-dry-9-5mm?variant=2715211

Casey Jwrote:

You realize they have a 9.5 protect at edelrid right? 

https://edelrid.com/us-en/sport/ropes/eagle-lite-protect-pro-dry-9-5mm?variant=2715211

I did not! Thanks for sharing.

It's hard to tell from the Mammut description, but it seems like their aramid layer might be somewhat under the main sheath rather than co-woven the way I think the Edelrid one is. If so, Mammut might have better resistance against the fuzzing that I have seen some reports of with the Edelrid. Mammut is also less expensive (plus I get additional discount on Mammut) so that makes more sense for me.

I just checked now, and Edelrid manufactures in Germany while Mammut manufactures their ropes in the Czech Republic, which explains the cost difference. Germany has been destroying their industrial capacity and energy infrastructure so you are subsidizing political nonsense, war, and human suffering by buying Edelrid, so I will pass on that. I would much rather support manufacturing in Czechia.

I just wanted to chime in here w my impressions of the petzl mambo and process more generally. It did have the effect of feeling more secure, and dreamy handling, however as someone whose risk tolerance changed and climbing enthusiasm waned, mostly due to child rearing, i would say if u r getting after it and are not super heavy just go with obvious choices 9-9.8 and u will be fine. Be safe!!!

Michael Cwrote:

I did not! Thanks for sharing.

It's hard to tell from the Mammut description, but it seems like their aramid layer might be somewhat under the main sheath rather than co-woven the way I think the Edelrid one is. If so, Mammut might have better resistance against the fuzzing that I have seen some reports of with the Edelrid. Mammut is also less expensive (plus I get additional discount on Mammut) so that makes more sense for me.

I just checked now, and Edelrid manufactures in Germany while Mammut manufactures their ropes in the Czech Republic, which explains the cost difference. Germany has been destroying their industrial capacity and energy infrastructure so you are subsidizing political nonsense, war, and human suffering by buying Edelrid, so I will pass on that. I would much rather support manufacturing in Czechia.

This is a very odd set of conclusions to jump to. 

Casey Jwrote:

This is a very odd set of conclusions to jump to. 

I'm an odd person!

Michael Cwrote:

I just checked now, and Edelrid manufactures in Germany while Mammut manufactures their ropes in the Czech Republic, which explains the cost difference. Germany has been destroying their industrial capacity and energy infrastructure so you are subsidizing political nonsense, war, and human suffering by buying Edelrid, so I will pass on that. I would much rather support manufacturing in Czechia.

So do you also not buy things that are made in the U.S.A.? 

Khoiwrote:

So do you also not buy things that are made in the U.S.A.? 

America has a pretty healthy energy mix and the self-destruction is nowhere near the level of Germany, which has nearly 3x the environmental, ecological, and humanitarian damage that is junk wind and solar. Moreover, whereas Europe runs as an aristocracy that is anti-entrepreneurship, America is a far more dynamic place . Yes, America is being attacked and eroded, but the rest of the world is even worse.

If you love the EU communism and fake hippy energy infrastructure from the luxury beliefs that you can afford as a global 1%er, isolated from the consequences of the damage you violently inflict upon others you deem unworthy of working their way out of poverty, I would encourage you to go there -- they have excellent climbing.

America could do better, with $0.016/kwh as the average residential electricity rate.

https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/us-energy-facts/

In germany, the average household electricity rate is $0.4/kwh, an absolutely mind-boggling planned demolition to bring a country to a cost on par with impoverished island-states that run on diesel generators.

https://www.iea.org/countries/germany

Are there any climbing ropes made in the US?