Any FAs left in Sierra?

I saw an interesting crag near Bear Valley that looks totally unexplored. I tried to hike to the base but there was too much bushwhacking and it was getting late. But it looks like a mini Lover’s Leap. Is it possible no one’s ever climbed it?  It’s right off the highway looking over the Stanislaus River on Spicer Meadow Road. There must still be FAs to be had. Or am I just dreaming?

If you go out there in total ignorance it's basically like an FA

sorry every route has already been done. 

If you want to know the name and grade, simply post it online and claim the FA, then the first ascensionist will come and correct you.

The crag you mentioned has a couple boulders that are still waiting on their respective sit starts however...

Charlie Kissickwrote:

I saw an interesting crag near Bear Valley that looks totally unexplored. I tried to hike to the base but there was too much bushwhacking and it was getting late. But it looks like a mini Lover’s Leap. Is it possible no one’s ever climbed it?  It’s right off the highway looking over the Stanislaus River on Spicer Meadow Road. There must still be FAs to be had. Or am I just dreaming?

Lots of FAs to be had. Usually, though, you have to walk a little more than a few hundred yards from a road. But if you don't know anyone has been up it before you, and it's not listed, then it should have all the same mystique to you regardless. It's really impossible to know what has "never been climbed." There've been people on this continent for, what, 11,000 years? 

I’ve been telling people for years that Hwy 4 has some great stuff ripe for development. But accessibility makes it difficult. Some great granite up that way but nothing as tall as the leap that isn’t terraced. 

I know the exact cliff you are talking about and have been meaning to hike out there myself. Given the other random development next to the reservoir, I’d be surprised if someone hadn’t checked it out already, but you just never know. Highway 4 does have a lot of untapped potential.  

Plenty of opportunities with a hike. Here are some done in the past few years

Here’s an FA in 2022: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/122849354/new-high-sierra-mega-routes-on-trapezoid-peak

One on Charlotte dome (!) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2023/6/26/the-line-june-2023

A ton of new ones at Wheeler

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213851/Wheeler-Crest-Many-New-Routes

Andrew Ricewrote:

Lots of FAs to be had. Usually, though, you have to walk a little more than a few hundred yards from a road. But if you don't know anyone has been up it before you, and it's not listed, then it should have all the same mystique to you regardless. It's really impossible to know what has "never been climbed." There've been people on this continent for, what, 11,000 years? 

But only stupid enough to climb boulders the past couple hundred? Maybe?  

Seriously though, even Whitney has seen quite a few new routes the past three decades. Pretty sure there are more to be had in the Sierras, unless bolting is banned?

You cannot prove an ascent is the first but sometimes they seem to be.

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201009700/Watchtower-New-Routes

Li Huwrote:

But only stupid enough to climb boulders the past couple hundred? Maybe?  

Seriously though, even Whitney has seen quite a few new routes the past three decades. Pretty sure there are more to be had in the Sierras, unless bolting is banned?

They can ban bolting all they want.
Completely un enforceable….
Just saying. 

Guy Keeseewrote:

They can ban bolting all they want.
Completely un enforceable….
Just saying. 

So true.  But all the FA's are gone anyway.  Might as well get a vegan pizza and pull on your pud at the Portal Store until the cops show up.

Charlie Kissickwrote:

There must still be FAs to be had. Or am I just dreaming?

This is kind of like a tourist asking how much unexplored passage is there in Mammoth Cave.

Charlie Kissickwrote:

There must still be FAs to be had. Or am I just dreaming?

You need to be named Vitaliy to get an FA in the Sierra. Everyone else thinks the Golden Age was in the past  ;-)

Andrew Ricewrote:

It's really impossible to know what has "never been climbed." 

Ok, quick head count. Raise your hand if you are not here!

Guy Keeseewrote:

They can ban bolting all they want.
Completely un enforceable….
Just saying. 

I’d certainly hate to have to be the enforcer up at 14,000 feet on 5.12 climbs up there trying to catch 20 year olds.   

It’s true what you’ve been told, there are no FAs left. They were all bagged by Burchey on a rest day in the Winter of ‘96. 1896.

Charlie Kissickwrote:

I saw an interesting crag near Bear Valley that looks totally unexplored. I tried to hike to the base but there was too much bushwhacking and it was getting late. But it looks like a mini Lover’s Leap. Is it possible no one’s ever climbed it?  It’s right off the highway looking over the Stanislaus River on Spicer Meadow Road. There must still be FAs to be had. Or am I just dreaming?

 Aaron Johnson runs BV adventure co and would probably know. He's the guy for the area when it come to climbing IMO. Give him a call.

is this the wall you're thinking of....its likely been sussed and climbed if worth while. People have been romping that area for a long time. Including the boyscouts from Wolfboro.

Generally, blasting your FA intentions across the internet like this is perhaps not the best new route hunting tactic. Others will rush your claim, or get there first, and they will do it silently.

If you're serious about finding new rock, don't tell anyone.

Go check out your rock. Go climb it. See what you find. Make it a mystery, You may hate that. Or you may fall in love with it.