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Easy multipitch sport climbing in eastern Australia?

Original Post
Thomas Ward · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1

Hi everyone, anybody know of some easy (< 5.10ish / 18ish) multipitch sport routes? Ideally in Queensland/NSW/Victoria. Will be visiting in September from the US and know virtually nothing about the climbing scene there. Thanks for your recommendations!

Ryan Mac · · Durango, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 1

Blueys are mostly harder than that but I'm sure you can find it. Grampians are similar. Also if you trad Arapiles is about the best multipitch you can find in the world.

Sam M · · Sydney, NSW · Joined May 2022 · Points: 1

Hey mate.

The most famous sport multi is in the Blue Mountains near Sydney. There's a few others near Sydney, and a few in Queensland. Check thecrag.com for an online guide that is more used here locally.

18 (5.9+, 5.10- ish) is about the minimum, there might be enough for a short trip, but if you can train up this year to get more solid up to 5.10+ or even 5.11- you will have heaps of options.

Whymper, Dirty Rotten Pig, Schwing, I Don't  Tip, The Rift (at Heathcliff), This Sporting Life, Weld Party, Mirrorball, Bunny Bucket Buttress (the most famous and popular), Randy Rabbit Ridge, Hotel California (using the variant start).

Also "Whale of a Time" on the Wollongong cliffs south of Sydney. And some very easy slab multis at Mt Gibraltar southwest of Sydney.

In Queensland look at Mt Tibrogargan. Caves Route, Troposphere, Sunburnt Buttress. Don't know much about that state's climbing sorry. It will already be getting hot up there in September.

Victoria and Tasmania are much more trad states. If you *are* a trad climber, Djurrite/Mt Arapiles is much better for low grades 5.0-5.9 in YDS. And shits over most of the climbing above for quality.

giraud b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

In Queensland (QLD), you'll enjoy these:

Beerwah (Glasshouse Mt) - The Martian (17)

Tibrogargan (Glasshouse Mt):

https://www.pinnaclesports.com.au/blog/six-awesome-introductory-multipitches-on-tibrogargan


September is perfect for climbing in QLD weather-wise. 

rpc · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 775

Did a couple of multi-pitch routes on Mt. Tibro and they were pretty fun.  The area has a bit of a suburbia vibe (you're not far from Brisbane) & the biggest appeal to us was that the Glasshouse Mtns. are off the beaten path esp. as far as foreign climbers go.

Too bad you're limited to the eastern part of the country.  Just came back from climbing in SA & WA and the latter has some stuff that would fit your requirements perfectly.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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