Boots for Cascades

Hey all,

My old scarpas have finally bit the dust so I'm in search of a new pair of boots to use in primarily the PNW, North Cascades, SW British Columbia, Rockies, etc. I'm not a technical ice or snow climber, so this boot will primarily be used for approaching, steep snow, and long, moderate rock routes up to 5.8 or so before breaking out the rock shoes. Things like Bugaboos, longer routes or traverses in North Cascades, and maybe some mountaineering in the Canadian Rockies in the summer.

For hiking, I prefer using trail runners for comfort and up to about 30lbs / ~10 miles (on trail) I don't mind the lack of support. I had considered getting an approach shoe but that seems less than ideal for all the snowfield crossings that abound in the North Cascades and glacier travel.

Top of my list currently is the Zodiac Tech or Mammut Kento Pro (not much info on these) but are there other boots or combinations I should be considering?

I’d check out the LS Aequilibrium Speed if you just want a little more snow capability than an approach shoe and normally hike in trailrunners. 

In addition to the Speed, the Ribelle Tech is also really nice for this sort of thing. My wife uses the Speed and I use the Ribelle Tech (both fit pretty differently, but operate similarly). We started ditching the trail runners because this style of boot is pretty comfortable for approaches too. 

I have the Zodiac Tech and have been super happy with it.  While they are one of my least used pieces of footwear (generally ski boots or Phantoms in winter, approach shoes in summer), they do the trick really well when required.  For example I used mine on the TFT, Forbidden NW Face, Fisher Chimneys, and Challenger; most other stuff, approach shoes have been fine.  When I went to the Bugs I just used approach shoes.  Seems like the leather build on the Zodiac is pretty durable, mine are holding up well.

That being said, I think there are a lot of good boots on the market.  Chris's recommendation is good, and there's other brand besides Scarpa and Sportiva.  I don't think there is a big difference in function, as long as they fit your foot, so make sure to try everything on before buying.

Kyle Tarrywrote:

I have the Zodiac Tech and have been super happy with it.  While they are one of my least used pieces of footwear (generally ski boots or Phantoms in winter, approach shoes in summer), they do the trick really well when required.  For example I used mine on the TFT, Forbidden NW Face, Fisher Chimneys, and Challenger; most other stuff, approach shoes have been fine.  When I went to the Bugs I just used approach shoes.  Seems like the leather build on the Zodiac is pretty durable, mine are holding up well.

That being said, I think there are a lot of good boots on the market.  Chris's recommendation is good, and there's other brand besides Scarpa and Sportiva.  I don't think there is a big difference in function, as long as they fit your foot, so make sure to try everything on before buying.

Thanks, sounds like the Zodiac tech may be the ticket. I know scarpas generally fit my feet well so I think for now trying to stay with them! not many shops around where I am that have a great selection of mountain boots to try on.

I have a pair of Trango Techs that I think of as glacier approach shoes.  They take a crampon well enough, they walk comfortably, they have enough tread to walk in firm snow and sticky enough rubber to climb 5.8.  I bought them right after they were released and have found they wear faster than I expected on the fabric upper material.  If I were buying them again I'd go for the leather version.  For my use though I think they would largely be replaced by the Aequilibrium.  I'd love to have Speed version for fast moving outings that cross snow and the supergaiter (Top) version for more sustained Glacier travel and crampon use.

Kyle Tarrywrote:

I have the Zodiac Tech and have been super happy with it.  While they are one of my least used pieces of footwear (generally ski boots or Phantoms in winter, approach shoes in summer), they do the trick really well when required.  For example I used mine on the TFT, Forbidden NW Face, Fisher Chimneys, and Challenger; most other stuff, approach shoes have been fine.  When I went to the Bugs I just used approach shoes.  Seems like the leather build on the Zodiac is pretty durable, mine are holding up well.

That being said, I think there are a lot of good boots on the market.  Chris's recommendation is good, and there's other brand besides Scarpa and Sportiva.  I don't think there is a big difference in function, as long as they fit your foot, so make sure to try everything on before buying.

Do you find these warm enough for some of the bigger things? IE Rainier in summer probably would be the coldest I'd take them, maybe some spring/fall objectives in the North Cascades too. My feet run pretty warm I find.

Are the Aequilibrium Speeds basically a low top with a gaiter? I haven't even heard of this version of the boot. How do they compare to the regular Aequilibrium (which is a high-top?)? I'm looking to get one of the Aequilibriums, for the same exact locations as Eric (PNW, Cascades, Canadian Rockies), though I think I want mine slightly more technical/crampon-compatible. Would the high-top version be better?

Anytime I've needed a crampon for anything in the summer, I've just hiked in my full-shank ice climbing LS Nepal and wanted to kill myself at the end of the day. I normally hike in trail runners or approach shoes.

M DPwrote:

Do you find these warm enough for some of the bigger things? IE Rainier in summer probably would be the coldest I'd take them, maybe some spring/fall objectives in the North Cascades too. My feet run pretty warm I find.

I do not think they would be warm enough for Rainier for a typical person, I haven’t tried them on anything like that myself.  Somebody has surely climbed Rainier with a pair of running shoes, but I don’t think it would be recommended.

I use these some in the North Cascades but it really depends on the objective.  Great boot for Pickets moderates or Fisher Chimneys; bad choice for North Ridge of Baker.

Kyle Tarrywrote:

I do not think they would be warm enough for Rainier for a typical person, I haven’t tried them on anything like that myself.  Somebody has surely climbed Rainier with a pair of running shoes, but I don’t think it would be recommended.

I use these some in the North Cascades but it really depends on the objective.  Great boot for Pickets moderates or Fisher Chimneys; bad choice for North Ridge of Baker.

Hmm thanks! Ok, which boots do you have for colder / more technical stuff?

M DPwrote:

Hmm thanks! Ok, which boots do you have for colder / more technical stuff?

I use Phantom Techs, but if the goal is solely Rainier a lot of other things are on the table.  Classic leather singles like Nepals and Mont Blancs are probably fine up there for a bulk of summer.  The techs (and other super gaiter boots like the G5, etc.) are warmer and lighter but less durable and more expensive.  I think you'd find any of these boots quite overkill and rather uncomfortable for the majority of the other objectives you've mentioned.

I have both the G5 Evo and G2 Evo (for Winter), I’d say the G5s are great for Rainier-like objectives, but I’ve also summited Rainier and Baker in my ski boots, so depends, but I do think the G5 are a great boot (climbed in them, snow shoed, ice climbed, etc.)