Utah Ice Conditions, 2023-2024

Nicholas Spiropuloswrote:

Any info on GWI?  Will be in SLC end of Dec and was hoping to take the GF up.  

Thai is how it looked today

It's been a min. since tapping ice in LCC for me. I'm curious if Scruffy Band comes into condition much anymore (how about now 1/4/24)?  I'm aware of the changes above the Vault, but other than that, has the approach to SB and GWI and other ice climbs in LCC changed much in terms of private property, parking, or trail adjustments one should be aware of in 2024? Thanks a bunch!

Joe’s Update, Donor is in, CCC is thin but in, Deadbolt is good, 2 of the north facing solo gully’s before you hit the reservoir are in-ish, and the Dirtcicle on the way or back is

Curtis Olsonwrote:

It's been a min. since tapping ice in LCC for me. I'm curious if Scruffy Band comes into condition much anymore (how about now 1/4/24)?  I'm aware of the changes above the Vault, but other than that, has the approach to SB and GWI and other ice climbs in LCC changed much in terms of private property, parking, or trail adjustments one should be aware of in 2024? Thanks a bunch!

Scruffy comes in somewhat rarely these days it seems.

Parking for GWI is on the road only, BELOW the old parking at the generator shack.  The foot bridge has long since disappeared but you can cross easily in the winter at a climbers trail.  

Hope that helps.  

zosowrote:

Scruffy comes in somewhat rarely these days it seems.

Parking for GWI is on the road only, BELOW the old parking at the generator shack.  The foot bridge has long since disappeared but you can cross easily in the winter at a climbers trail.  

Hope that helps.  

Zoso: Thanks for the info. Any suggestions on some WI2-3 that is 'in' for soloing at the moment? Lower angle smears, etc. to dance around on?

Malan's waterfall is in, a little thin in places but goes. Monday January 8

Curtis Olsonwrote:

Zoso: Thanks for the info. Any suggestions on some WI2-3 that is 'in' for soloing at the moment? Lower angle smears, etc. to dance around on?

One can play on the lower pitches of the GWI, the last bit is still not in.

Curtis Olsonwrote:

Zoso: Thanks for the info. Any suggestions on some WI2-3 that is 'in' for soloing at the moment? Lower angle smears, etc. to dance around on?

hogum gullies, apron, bottom of millers, bottom of fang. scruffy may come in this week but i havent looked at it recently. also could ski/snowmobile in to hard to find falls or cobblerest in uintahs. last chance falls was in a month ago, havent heard anything about it in awhile though.

John Sigmon made my day

Any beta on Maple? 

Ryan Pecknoldwrote:

Any beta on Maple? 

From the FB page last week, zero ice in maple. It needs more snow and more time. 

Alex Mankouskiwrote:

John Sigmon made my day

please be aware of avalanche hazard with the incoming storms :) stay safe out there!

Any info on Joes Valley or anything W/SW of SLC?

Greg Greshwrote:

Any info on Joes Valley or anything W/SW of SLC?

scroll up just a bit!  Joes is looking good

Is anyone open to go ice climbing on Monday? I am 15, so will need a ride. I lead WI4, have followed 6, down to do anything.

Edit: found a partner

Alex Mankouskiwrote:

Is anyone open to go ice climbing on Monday? I am 15, so will need a ride. I lead WI4, have followed 6, down to do anything.

Alex, so cool that you are psyched to ice climb at age 15.  You’ve got a long exciting road ahead of you.  Proud of you!

Quick funny story about similar guys ice climbing.  In the 70’s, it was popular to run laps on GWI - sometimes after work.  One late afternoon, I climbed up to the snow patch on top of the second GWI pitch and found a tent setup and two ‘kids’ outside brewing hot chocolate.  It was the Smoot brothers - Brian and Jonathan - on an expedition climb.  They looked about 12 years old to me at the time and they were eager to let me know that their mom had dropped them off earlier that afternoon.  Who would have thought what remarkable and prolific climbers they would turn out to be.

That is hilarious, I'm definitely gonna steal that idea

Also, I'm trying to get into leading WI5 (I lead 4). My mom, who is very experienced, says I have good technique but that I need to get stronger in dealing with pump. She said a good exercise would be to set up a top rope on a WI5, do it 3 times, but making sure I am secure the entire time. Any other tips? I have also been working out every day."

Hey. I am beginner ice climber in Salt Lake City looking to go out for a day with my partner. I was thinking of doing Apron Ice in Provo Canyon. Is that a good idea right now? Any other recommendations are appreciated for beginners. Thanks homie much love word to my mother

Alex Mankouskiwrote:

My mom, who is very experienced, says I have good technique but that I need to get stronger in dealing with pump. She said a good exercise would be to set up a top rope on a WI5, do it 3 times, but making sure I am secure the entire time. Any other tips? I have also been working out every day."

Lincoln Knowleswrote:

Hey. I am beginner ice climber in Salt Lake City looking to go out for a day with my partner. I was thinking of doing Apron Ice in Provo Canyon. Is that a good idea right now? Any other recommendations are appreciated for beginners. Thanks homie much love word to my mother

there's an announced backcountry closure tomorrow in the area. stairway isnt avy prone per se but with the storm looking a bit rough through the weekend id personally wait till monday. sunday may be ok but if its as bad as forecast you could get some pretty bad sluffing, which is benign, until its not.