Where would you want a #8 cam
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I did Pratt's Crack last summer and was really wishing I had a #7. Is there anywhere in Yosemite or the Sierra where you'd be grateful to have a #8, assuming you're a huge weeny like me? Badasses who "rely on your technique" feel free to comment but any actually useful thoughts would be awesome. |
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The only time I've used an #8 on granite is to lead Generator Crack. I've heard someone say he wish he brought one for Lost Arrow Chimney. |
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Vedauwoo & sandstone in Nevada and Utah yes. I can't think of anything in Tuolumne that demands a #8, but I'd be delighted to hear of such. Maybe if you own one, you can put up some routes on the north face of polly dome, the east face of piwiack, or upper cathedral lake... If you have the #7, your reputation is already in shambles, so you might as well go all-in with the #8. |
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I think it would protect Crack of Doom. That said, the #7 is preferable and lets you basically TR it |
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Stefanos Apostlewrote: Are you telling me no one actually "uses" their truck nutz? |
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Charles Petersenwrote: fugazee |
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I was certainly happy to have a Merlin 8 on the Salathe - plenty of folks just climb the Hollow Flake with a 6 but I'm a punter. |
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There were a bunch of easy-moderate routes at Vedauwoo that, after I'd done them the once on lead without something that big, I told myself I'd never lead them again. If I'd had an #8, I probably would've logged a bunch of laps on them, as it's easier to use than an equivalent big bro. The widest of the 3 sisters and Candlestick, both at the nautilus, come to mind. |
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CD Transporterwrote: |
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Never used a #8, but I frequently find random spots where my #4 big bros fit. Lots of stuff at Joshua Tree, and mountaineering in the Eastern Sierras on lines with no names. Looks like #4 BB has about the same range (~7-12") as a BD #8. I figure a cam will probably work anywhere a BB can go, and then some? But some of the spots I'm thinking of at JT were originally R/X moves, before this kind of pro was invented. I wonder if that might be a wider phenomenon, with less protected older routes. I'm not sure if the weight & bulk would justify carrying the #8 up an unknown random mountain line. Maybe if I owned it, I'd feel obligated to use it? |
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I walked a #8 up almost all of this route... |





