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Where would you want a #8 cam

Original Post
Charles Petersen · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

I did Pratt's Crack last summer and was really wishing I had a #7. Is there anywhere in Yosemite or the Sierra where you'd be grateful to have a #8, assuming you're a huge weeny like me? Badasses who "rely on your technique" feel free to comment but any actually useful thoughts would be awesome. 

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 723

The only time I've used an #8 on granite is to lead Generator Crack. I've heard someone say he wish he brought one for Lost Arrow Chimney.

There's a gigantic drop in usefulness between the 7 and 8. Unless you're a big guy climbing a lot of wide sandstone cracks or a total gear whore I'd say it's not worth getting.

Stefanos Apostle · · Wherever my last tick is · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 226

No one actually uses them, #8 cams are just the climbing version of truck nutz

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,078

Vedauwoo & sandstone in Nevada and Utah yes. I can't think of anything in Tuolumne that demands a #8, but I'd be delighted to hear of such. Maybe if you own one, you can put up some routes on the north face of polly dome, the east face of piwiack, or upper cathedral lake...

If you have the #7, your reputation is already in shambles, so you might as well go all-in with the #8.

Ben Kraft · · San Francisco, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 10

I think it would protect Crack of Doom. That said, the #7 is preferable and lets you basically TR it

CD Transporter · · Boise, ID · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 70



Charles Petersen · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0
Stefanos Apostlewrote:

No one actually uses them, #8 cams are just the climbing version of truck nutz

Are you telling me no one actually "uses" their truck nutz?

Stefanos Apostle · · Wherever my last tick is · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 226
Charles Petersenwrote:

Are you telling me no one actually "uses" their truck nutz?

fugazee

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,201

I was certainly happy to have a Merlin 8 on the Salathe - plenty of folks just climb the Hollow Flake with a 6 but I'm a punter.

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

There were a bunch of easy-moderate routes at Vedauwoo that, after I'd done them the once on lead without something that big, I told myself I'd never lead them again. If I'd had an #8, I probably would've logged a bunch of laps on them, as it's easier to use than an equivalent big bro.

The widest of the 3 sisters and Candlestick, both at the nautilus, come to mind.

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
CD Transporterwrote:


This video was amazingly entertaining. I´d love to know the back story of how they sussed out the required gear then acquired it. What was the first ascent story? I think I counted five #8s and three or four #7s on his rack when he started up. Insane. Now I know that "cam management" can be a super serious thing. Just, wow!

Ryan Lynch · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

Never used a #8, but I frequently find random spots where my #4 big bros fit. Lots of stuff at Joshua Tree, and mountaineering in the Eastern Sierras on lines with no names.

Looks like #4 BB has about the same range (~7-12") as a BD #8. I figure a cam will probably work anywhere a BB can go, and then some?

But some of the spots I'm thinking of at JT were originally R/X moves, before this kind of pro was invented. I wonder if that might be a wider phenomenon, with less protected older routes.

I'm not sure if the weight & bulk would justify carrying the #8 up an unknown random mountain line. Maybe if I owned it, I'd feel obligated to use it?

bmdhacks · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,816

I walked a #8 up almost all of this route...

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107889970/get-rad

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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