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Why Dragonflies

Original Post
Trevor Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 5

I have been seeing / hearing of folks who really love their Dragonflies. What is the hype all about? Is there anything mechanically that is different from Z4 or Aliens? 

Ben Podborski · · Canadian Rockies · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 15

Small and stronger at the size. 

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30

DMM quality. 

+one for strong small cams. Who knew you could get 8kn strength from a purple tcu sized cam!

A mix of Dragonflies and WC zeros covers the need well.

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 16

another point: at the 0, .1, .2 sizes - the Z4s feel...not great. the dragonflys feel incredibly smooth.

try to go to a shop to get your hands on them as well to play around with them.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Agreed. Way better feel in .2 and smaller. Also more flexy stems and extendable slings so less prone to walking and the slings eliminate needing an alpine draw by maybe 30%. Not long enough for when the route wanders but just enough for small roofs and when the placement is deep in a crack. 

Derek Ehrnschwender · · Cambridge, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 45

Another vote for the small size really being a plus. These things take up very close to zero room in your pack; low cost to bringing them along. The biggest downside I think is the range being a little limited. If I see a nice parallel crack, dragonfly it is. If it's a funky crack, I'm reaching for something else.

Josh S · · Brooklyn, NY / Gunks · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

I have a full rack of dragonflies but only really find myself using green->yellow, above that I use the equivalent totems. I switched to them from aliens: in addition to them going down to smaller sizes, I also found the quality to be higher (I had more than one alien that got a bit mangled in a fall or high rope drag situation). I've never owned Z4s but generally found them nicer to use and slightly more solid than the weird stems on Z4s when I've used them. I also like the extendable sling...I don't use it all the time but it comes in handy if you're low on draws high up a route. That said I think all tiny cams are a bit finicky and these are no exception...if you've already got tiny cams in another model I don't know that they're so much better that it'd be worth buying a second set as an upgrade.

Since IIRC you're a Gunks climber from that other thread about Gunks 11s: I carry the yellow dragonfly all the time...that size (blue alien-ish) is super useful. Red can often fit alongside a piton as a backup but rarely gets placed by itself. Green I basically never carry.

Christian Hesch · · Arroyo Grande, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 56

Specific to El Cap/The Valley, I can echo what's been mentioned above about the green/red/yellow being superior to Z4's. At 0.3, it becomes debatable (essentially a toss-up, IMO), and the silver and purple dragonfly is inferior to the equivalent size Z4 (imo). Also the sizing is off a good bit compared to Z4's or totems, the blue dragonfly is much smaller than the blue totem (yellow dragonfly is only slightly smaller than black, IIRC), the silver dragonfly is significantly smaller than yellow totem (almost blue totem size), and the purple is waaay smaller than a 0.5, basically a yellow totem size. IIRC, the green and red are about equal to Z4 green and red.

The crap trigger holds true with the smallest two offset Z4's, they have shite mushburgers for triggers, whereas the dragonfly triggers are much more crisp (Z4 trigger from .3/.4 and up is great), I prefer either dragonfly offsets or X4 offsets for the smallest two sizes. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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