50th Anniversary of 1972 Chouinard Clean Climbing Catalog

Often called the catalog that changed climbing forever , the introduction ,"A Word" by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost and the essay  "The Whole Natural Art of Protection " by Doug Robinson , definitely had a dramatic and lasting influence .

I was on the Chouinard Equipment list and received it in the mail. Always had to consult it for knot graphics on pages 27 & 28. when replacing hardware . 

Doug signed it with a tribute to John Fischer at his memorial.

Trivia ... there are two printings of the catalogue. There is a subtle way to tell the difference. Who knows??

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Trivia ... there are two printings of the catalogue. There is a subtle way to tell the difference. Who knows??

Do tell, wondering which one I have. 

I can’t tell you the difference between 1 and 2 unless it is the cover is black and white in one of them?  

And there is actually 3 printings of the catalog now, though I’m not sure if the recent printing will be distributed.  The only reason I knew it wasn’t  an original is how it was getting tossed around!  I nearly had a heart attack when I saw it get tossed in the dirt and no one seemed to care.  I was then told it was a reprint.

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Trivia ... there are two printings of the catalogue. There is a subtle way to tell the difference. Who knows??

One is $0.50 the other is $1.00

There was also a pretty good reprint made years later. 

I have the '50 Cent' version which is in fair condition.

Is the 50-cent version early 1972?

I sold mine, not in super condition, but good condition for $50. . .  Michael Chessler is trying to get $500 for his. . . 

Bill McKirganwrote:

I have the '50 Cent' version which is in fair condition.

Is the 50-cent version early 1972?

Correct. For a complete version, one also wants all of the inserts.

Steve Williamswrote:

I sold mine, not in super condition, but good condition for $50. . .  Michael Chessler is trying to get $500 for his. . . 

Hi Steve,

When did you sell yours for $50?  What kind of condition problems did it have?

Do you know if Michael's copy is in 'fine' or 'as new' condition?  If so that may be a fair price.

I'm thinking of putting my copy up for sale on eBay which is why I'm curious about this publication and the different versions.

Here's a picture of the cover...

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Correct. For a complete version, one also wants all of the inserts.

Hi Allen,

Do you know where I can learn more about the different versions of this publication?  

Thanks,
Bill

I think this is the catalog that had a picture of Moose’s Tooth (?) on the back and a quote from Albert Einstein:  

“A perfection of means, and a confusion of aims, seems to be our main problem”

Seems strange today looking at all the complicated multi equalized belay anchor setups, rap devices with double/triple backups, and climbing costumes.

Bill McKirganwrote: Do you know where I can learn more about the different versions of this publication?  

According to Marty, there are six versions?  From a Supertopo thread:

"My observation with Chouinard catalogs shows that Chouinard had Spring and Winter newsletters. The famous 1972 catalog was used for three years where the pages stayed the same but the price list in the back changed. Actually for sure there are 6 different versions of the 1972(73, 74) catalog the original having the back price list all in one single column. In most of the price lists it states if it is a 1973 fall version etc. I have a strange feeling that Chouinard put out a new price list every quarter over twice a year but I am still trying to prove it."

I've seen at least four variations myself.  Mostly can tell by the price list in the back.  Single column for the first edition as mentioned by Marty above.

Ahh...on Marty's website:

Chouinard Catalogs 1972-1974

RKMwrote:

I think this is the catalog that had a picture of Moose’s Tooth (?) on the back and a quote from Albert Einstein:  

“A perfection of means, and a confusion of aims, seems to be our main problem”

Seems strange today looking at all the complicated multi equalized belay anchor setups, rap devices with double/triple backups, and climbing costumes.

Yeah, good memory!  Was up front.  Cerro Torre in the back with a quote from the Rolling Stones, "lose your dreams and you'll loose your mind..."

Brian in SLCwrote:

According to Marty, there are six versions?  From a Supertopo thread:

"My observation with Chouinard catalogs shows that Chouinard had Spring and Winter newsletters. The famous 1972 catalog was used for three years where the pages stayed the same but the price list in the back changed. Actually for sure there are 6 different versions of the 1972(73, 74) catalog the original having the back price list all in one single column. In most of the price lists it states if it is a 1973 fall version etc. I have a strange feeling that Chouinard put out a new price list every quarter over twice a year but I am still trying to prove it."

I've seen at least four variations myself.  Mostly can tell by the price list in the back.  Single column for the first edition as mentioned by Marty above.

Ahh...on Marty's website:

Chouinard Catalogs 1972-1974

Hi Brian in SLC,

Thanks for all of this information and for the link to Marty Karabin's 'Karabin Climbing Museum' where he provided the kind of detail I am seeking regarding this publication. The photos and written details are very helpful. Thanks also for quoting the relevant details on this topic from what remains of the Supertopo.com forum. I did search there a bit but was frustrated and unsuccessful in my attempts to learn more. I'm linking to that topic, below, for others who may be curious.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1327553/Chouinard-carabiner-Timeline-Identification-Guide-1968-89

Thanks very much for your help!

AS AN ASIDE...

It was a dark day on the interwebz when TheTACO / SuperTopo.com forum was locked and all the images and hot links to images / videos / audio files were disabled. As I read through the ST thread you quoted I see holes where other contributors to the discussion withdrew their posts. I remember that STers did that individually or by having their account deleted be it by request or as a punishment for breaking the rules. In the second post on this thread Marty replies to 'GF' which makes me think his post got removed thus making a 'hole' in the discussion.

So Bill...which version do you have?

Edit to add:

You can see mine has "10-73-4M" which I think might mean was printed in October of 1973 and maybe good for 4 months?  Reference to 1974 stock as well.

Cheers!

Brian,

I have the 50-cent version.  Thanks for helping me learn more about it!

EDIT TO ADD PHOTOS

I had a 72 catalog BITD, the year I started climbing.

Still own these from that year.

Bill

I sold it about a year ago to a guy in NY.  The back cover was a bit curled and had the remnants of a label attached to it.

It was in good condition. . . As for Chesseler, he appears to price things very, very high. . .'just sayin'.

Brian in SLCwrote:

According to Marty, there are six versions?  From a Supertopo thread:

"My observation with Chouinard catalogs shows that Chouinard had Spring and Winter newsletters. The famous 1972 catalog was used for three years where the pages stayed the same but the price list in the back changed. Actually for sure there are 6 different versions of the 1972(73, 74) catalog the original having the back price list all in one single column. In most of the price lists it states if it is a 1973 fall version etc. I have a strange feeling that Chouinard put out a new price list every quarter over twice a year but I am still trying to prove it."

I've seen at least four variations myself.  Mostly can tell by the price list in the back.  Single column for the first edition as mentioned by Marty above.

Ahh...on Marty's website:

Chouinard Catalogs 1972-1974

The collections by Marty, YCA/Ken Yager, and Nut Story are very impressive.  Every once in a while, I go down the rabbit hole on the collections.  Thanks to those guys and gals.

If anyone is still following this post, I'll say that, I have a Chouinard catalog, in "near mint" condition, which I'll likely sell on eBay, along with any other old stuff I don't want to leave for my sons to casually dispose of, some day I hope well into the future. I'll assume it's a 1972 issue, because the price list is in one column, and the Crag Hammer is listed at $14, but this copy has "PRICE CHANGES" stamped on the right of that page, which among other things, updates the price of the Crag Hammer from $14 to $16. As such, this copy--with the original price on the inside of the front cover of 50 cents--has the exact same content as that at https://thesenecaproject.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/ChouinardCatalog.pdf, with the same page for the price list. In other internet searches, I've found the Chouinard catalog with the Crag Hammer at $14 (what would seem to be the original 1972 issue, with no updated stamped price changes), the Crag Hammer at $16, and the Crag Hammer at $18. Then there's the inside of the front cover cost of 50 cents, or of $1.00, not always obvious in the searching.

I have the one Richard does, near mint. Stamp price change.