Cochise Sport Climbing Ethics Question

Hey everyone!

I’m headed to Cochise as part of a longer roadtrip and taking a newer climber on some of the easy sport routes on the west side (and scoping the trad routes for a return with my experienced climbing partner). 

As it’s our first time to the area I’m wondering if lowering is cool there or is it custom to rap off? With her being a new outdoor climber, the answer might change my approach to her cleaning routes and maximizing her safety. And I want to preserve customs.

thanks!

Very considerate of you. My intuition is to do what makes safest sense for you two.  However, I’m not a local.

… and you do realize the about-to-resume lower-vs-rap debate will carry us well into the new year. 

Thanks Bill! Oh no, I didn’t mean to spark that debate, it’s true it’s due again soon though.

Just FYI, when I did some sport climbing there, some (not all) routes labeled 'sport' had pretty significant runouts I wish I'd known about. I'd recommend just giving MP and/or the guidebook a look to make sure the sport route is 'sporty' enough for your crew!

imho, I'd typically lower there (or most places) unless the anchor seems better suited to rappelling than lowering (thin rings, rope on sharp edge, awk rope threading pattern, etc.)

Hi… If you go the Zappa dome - east side sport wall- fabulous climbing, moderate. 

You will need to lower. Scott Ayers used a brilliant bolt pattern that forces you to lower. Hard to explain.

Unless things have changed.

Have fun 

Daniel: thanks for the info! Do you happen to remember any of those major runout routes you got on? I agree with you regarding tbd based off anchor, I also usually just lower

Guy: thanks for the recommendation, I’ll have to check it out! Sounds awesome,

FWIW trad rock might be bolted, but it was done so traditionally, hence the name.

I always rapped off routes and feel sheepish when asked not to. It's a newer school thing (European ethic?) and IMHO appropriate only if you have easily replaceable mussy's and lowering isn't going to mess up the rock.

One thing you could consider is climbing at The Farmhouse for a day or two. It's about a 50 minute drive from the Isle of Ewe but in my experience the sport climbing there is much better than anything at the Isle of Ewe. There's enough moderate sport climbing at The Farmhouse to keep you busy for a few days.

Thanks for the additional beta! Will have to check it out