Quick Link Open (Unscrewed) Break Strength

Troy Isaksonwrote:

Interesting thread. I was thinking of using a larger link (that opens to allow a rope to pass into it) for at the top of sport routes instead of leave-it biners.  But just not tighten them, so each climber could easily unscrew them with their fingers and drop the rope through them and retighten lightly,  then lower or top rope off them. They're cheaper than biners and would last longer before needing to be replaced. So I was wondering also what the strength is if only hand tightened lightly. 

Plated ones often seize up from corrosion before long, and Stainless is likely to unscrew itself when you don't want it to. Quicklinks (even high quality ones) can deform under just a few kn when not screwed closed. For just a couple $'s more grab some steel biners for the end of the chains.

This revived thread got me curious. 

We pull tested some open 8mm (5/16") and 10mm (+3/8") stainless steel and some plated steel quicklinks today.

 Open Unscrewed Quicklinks Maillon Rapide Pull Test Break Test Stainless & Plated Steel

For forces of lowering and having often at least two 8mm or one 10mm, I personally wouldn't be too worried. But I still tighten down all the quicklinks on my anchors. For some situations I'll add some permanent threadlocker. In one forested crag, we tried leaving them open so people could drop their ropes in more conveniently, but dirt and crap got in them, and then couldn't be tightened all the way. So now they just pass a bight.

Thanks for the replies. Yea, they probably wouldn't be ideal for trying to make them work as a biner without having to untie to thread the rope. I may try them on some local, semi-private routes that mostly will be me and just a few others climbing.  It will be cool to see if they stay easily screwable with just fingers over a few years. I don't know. Steel biners aren't that much more money.

Andrew Poetwrote:

It was being used in a tensioning system for a slackline. While I was pulling on the rope I noticed the quicklink deforming and realized what had happened. Luckily nothing broke before I could de-tension it.

What were the circumstances of the tensioning system? 1to1, 2to1, 3to1??  Seems a lot of force could be created depending on what the tensioning system was and could easily exceed open breaking or bending strength.

Kevin Maliczakwrote:

This revived thread got me curious. 

We pull tested some open 8mm (5/16") and 10mm (+3/8") stainless steel and some plated steel quicklinks today.

 Open Unscrewed Quicklinks Maillon Rapide Pull Test Break Test Stainless & Plated Steel

For forces of lowering and having often at least two 8mm or one 10mm, I personally wouldn't be too worried. But I still tighten down all the quicklinks on my anchors. For some situations I'll add some permanent threadlocker. In one forested crag, we tried leaving them open so people could drop their ropes in more conveniently, but dirt and crap got in them, and then couldn't be tightened all the way. So now they just pass a bight.

I use similar systems on my routes, I usually just finger tighten them so its easy to unscrew and drop the rope in them screw it finger tight.  All or most of my routes are in arid desert areas so I haven't had any issues with threads getting gunked up.  I think if the area is highly traveled it would be wise to use thread lock and really tighten it down.  Love your videos.

Kevin Maliczakwrote:

This revived thread got me curious. 

We pull tested some open 8mm (5/16") and 10mm (+3/8") stainless steel and some plated steel quicklinks today.

 Open Unscrewed Quicklinks Maillon Rapide Pull Test Break Test Stainless & Plated Steel

For forces of lowering and having often at least two 8mm or one 10mm, I personally wouldn't be too worried. But I still tighten down all the quicklinks on my anchors. For some situations I'll add some permanent threadlocker. In one forested crag, we tried leaving them open so people could drop their ropes in more conveniently, but dirt and crap got in them, and then couldn't be tightened all the way. So now they just pass a bight.

Lol I've been off MP for a few days and saw that video, I thought it seemed weirdly timed

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