New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #26

Ward Smithwrote:

Hi everyone, put up a new boulder problem on my 63rd birthday, V6? from the sit start.  Having fun in the sun out west.  Another week here before heading back to Massachusetts. 

Wow a V6! Happy birthday!

Ward Smithwrote:

Hi everyone, put up a new boulder problem on my 63rd birthday, V6? from the sit start.  Having fun in the sun out west.  Another week here before heading back to Massachusetts. 

Happy birthday Ward!  Hope it is/was a great one!   Ouch, ouch, ouch! on those fingers!!!  

This Youtube video popped up this afternoon and I watched the entire thing.  What a beautiful route!  I feel a little deprived. 

Meanwhile, I've been dreaming of moguls. Have been working on a route on Trespassers Wall called Torturer's Apprentice and I'm truly baffled by some of those slopers and crimps.  I do not know if it's too much for me, but it sure has dug deep in my heart.  I'd like to keep trying until I know I either can't climb it, or that maybe it is worth the effort. About halfway up that headwall it gets a little dicey.  "Should I stay or should I go?"   

Even though they are both slab, this rock looks nothing like Solid Gold rock.  Are they similar?  

Solid Gild rock is quite 'polished'--desert varnish. The climbing on the first pitch is steep, sharp crimps. It has been years since I've climbed it but my fingers still twinge at the thought. The second pitch has more varied climbing. Excellent climb.

If I'm not mistaken Solid Gold was originally a 10a until a hold broke off about halfway up?

The other excellent route with "gold" in the name  is 10 karat Gold on the Weeping Wall at Suicide. I convinced this Russian climber to lead the thing and he about shit a brick on the traverse run-out section . But basically it took his mind off of his wife who had dropped us off and was busy running his credit card through the roof at the stores in Idyllwild.

Before he launched off the belay on the traverse I noticed his gold marriage band on his right ring finger. In  Russia that's where they put it.

Donald Thompsonwrote:

If I'm not mistaken Solid Gold was originally a 10a until a hold broke off about halfway up?

Nothing important has broken on Solid Gold, but many people think it is stiff for 5.10a. However, bird feathers and droppings can get washed down the face which can add to the difficulty significantly.

Alan's recollection is fairly spot on. Steep, solid and sharp crimpers. But, mostly, you have to really stand up on the edges.

Solid Gold bears very little resemblance to the routes on Little Hunk.

Here's a shot I took of Peter Croft standing on those edges Randy mentions, on the first pitch of Solid Gold.

Another new one yesterday, crimpy V5 “Sunny and 63.”

Thanks Lori, remote Arizona location accessed by four wheel drive back roads.

If a route is something you really want to do, just keep at it.  I’ve had projects that literally took me years to send.  Do lots of other routes within your ability most of the time, and go back to the project occasionally. You will learn new tricks every time you get on it.  Any new trick or move I do on a project is a “success” for that day.  

Ward Smithwrote:

Thanks Lori, remote Arizona location accessed by four wheel drive back roads.

If a route is something you really want to do, just keep at it.  I’ve had projects that literally took me years to send.  Do lots of other routes within your ability most of the time, and go back to the project occasionally. You will learn new tricks every time you get on it.  Any new trick or move I do on a project is a “success” for that day.  

Thanks so much Ward! I accidentally deleted my post, but maybe all I needed was your response. Thank you!

Keep posting pictures these are great!

Ward Smithwrote:

Another new one yesterday, crimpy V5 “Sunny and 63.”

That's badass dude!!

Missing home this morning! Day three stuck in San Bernardino, broken truck at dealer.

Watched "His Kind of Woman" last night. Great movie, still don't like being stuck here.

I was just plain scared. Wouldn’t mind trying again and getting over it.  Heart and Sole.  

Heart and Sole, great line. The roof is passed on  the right if memory serves, then you edge back left along its rim. Nice exposure.

We  always used to do Quick Draw McGraw when we were over in that area.

My favorite over there is The Falcon and the Snowman.  A bit run but some great climbing.

Another obligatory favorite over in that general area which instantly comes to mind is Touch and Go.

Anywho.

I just told Tony that we both have a hearing test scheduled for tomorrow and he said “WHAT? Why do I need a urine test?”.   

Oh godI’m tempted to not explain and let him walk in to the hearing center and announce “I’m here for a urine test.“ That tells the whole story.

That’s about all the news from here. We are in the middle of watching the Thornbirds, the miniseries from the 1970s. More Australia! And a lot of romance.   There’s even a couple of kangaroos.

Also, we are arguing about my purchase of a very small Thanksgiving turkey from Whole Foods. First, in Tony’s family you’re supposed to serve lasagna at Thanksgiving. And what kind of highway robbery this charging two dollars a pound for turkey. I know the good Lord has only given me a certain number of breaths in this life, and it’s absolutely pointless to use up any of them to try to explain  

what’s up with you guys?

Hard to believe but once not long ago there were an appreciable number of medical professionals who bought into the theory that an individual was born with a certain limited amount of heartbeats and when you exceeded that number you were in deep trouble - so therefore chronic exercise, which used up more  allotted heartbeats ,was not good for most people.

So.I am off to kill myself with the zone 2 portion of today's workout.

Soon after I got engaged to my (now) wife, I ran into my hard-of-hearing neighbor. I told him "Bill, I'm getting married! She's a fourth grade school teacher."

He shouted back, " WHAT? She's Portuguese?"

Did all the moves from a low sit today.  We did it from a stand two years ago at V5.  Much harder  from the sit but I’m cautiously optimistic .Maybe not this trip but that’s OK.