On finding big wall partners

Ross Goldbergwrote:

…more than the fact that I had to explain what a Totem is.

Yeah, you have to make allowances. (I mean, well, Quinn….)

This seems like a really amazing opportunity for me, but I gotta be honest about my experience:

I've never been on a big wall, and my "real" multipitch experience is a bit of a joke. I've been trad climbing for years and am pretty comfortable with it, I have a full rack of Friends and Totems, about 8 assorted other cams, and a bunch of passive pro. I've spent loads of time short pitching my local walls to practice anchor building/management, hanging belays, and a little time hauling a BD Stubby bag full of assorted gear to play with that side of the system.  I saved up for months to buy some assenders when I was a kid and played with them extensively over the years, so I'm pretty competent at jugging, and I've even picked up some ladders and a little aid gear that I've had tons of fun learning with. I'm very comfortable on TR 5.11s and some 12s in my local gym, and regularly lead 10s and some 11s, but I'm not sure how the ratings differ from east to west coast...

I would be absolutely thrilled to be a belay slave, do all the hauling, and maybe lead 1 or 2 of the easier pitches if we think I'm up for the challenge. 

As far as timing goes, the period between Thanksgiving and Christmas would work best for me, if you're able to wait that long? I was hoping to take a trip out to Camp 4 around that time anyway and see if I could bum along with someone on some easy stuff to finally get some experience, so I've already been doing as much reading and learning on the subjects as I can.

Does this sound like something you'd be willing to try, or are you looking for someone who's already been around the block a few times to help you with this project?

Just FWIW, the Sloan guide recommends:

Nuts: 2 ea

Cams: 2-3 ea .5"-4"

Hooks: 1 ea

I climbed the Nose in 1996.

So yeah, before most of my partners were born. During my heyday, did another half dozen walls. Took a very looooooooooooong break- kids, work, life…

Been back at it about three years- since Covid. Feel like I just might be in better shape now- better diet, better training, better head space all around. Except that I may have lost a bit of the “fuck it, let’s just go for it” attitude I had when younger. But, you know, I had a lot of epics back in the day and nowadays, I prefer to avoid the really uncomfortable/ potentially dangerous stuff.

I’ve got a full big wall ready rack, 2 brand new 70m ropes, a haul bag, an A5 double porta-ledge with rain fly.

I lead 5.8 trad, 5.10-11a sport, and C2 aid.

I spent the summer climbing 3x per week, trail running like a madman, trips to the sierras for trad and aid practice. 5 trips to the Valley for small wall attempts with 5 bail out sessions with partners who had never been on a wall before.

What more do people want?

Whatever. The season is almost over and I could always work more…

Andrew O'Brienwrote:

Start soloing.  If you spend enough time doing it and don’t f**k yourself up you’ll eventually run into someone else doing the same and make friends. Plus talking to somebody as a potential partner, who has a fair deal with solo experience makes them a more attractive candidate for a partner.   Make Washington column and then leaning tower your second home and soon you’ll have to find an excuse to solo. 

This was how I found my current big wall partner.  I went to Yosemite, tried Zodiac solo, failed, then made plans to go back the following year.  I let people in my social circles know about these adventures, and a guy who lives in my small city who had considered himself a retired big wall climber decided he wanted to get back into it.

I basically decided that I'm going to Yosemite every year.  If I find a good partner who wants to join,  that's great, but if no one raises their hand or if someone bails last minute, no worries, I'm still going for another solo attempt.

Find someone who is both stubborn enough to make it to the top yet smart enough to listen and learn about wall stuff.

Climbing with a partner who insists on reinventing the wheels decreases your odds of success.

Find your partners strengths and focus on that.

Your third partner doesn't have enough experience?  I am curious what kind of experience someone would need.  Obviously you hope they have a ton of experience but what does someone really need?  Do you need someone to take some of the leads or do you just need someone who can jug, clean and have basic big wall skills.  

I can't get off work, so I'm not volunteering myself.  I'm just trying to figure out how to get into big walls and finding a partner has been difficult for me.  It seems like experienced big wall climbers just want other experienced big wall climbers and I'm having difficulty finding someone of equal ability to me who is willing to get on a wall.  So I am left practicing basic skills by myself such as aiding with a top rope solo, jugging, and aiding sport routes like a bolt ladder.  I live an hour from Zion so I have that going for me.  

No team has ever “Needed” a 3rd partner- unless of course, they Needed to give themselves a 50% higher chance of Bailing

Surprised this thread is still going, but it does seem to address a common problem we all have.

In response to Quinn, the “third” partner was after the first two didn’t work out. Not a third partner on the same trip. I guess I’m looking for a 4th partner after the first three didn’t work out. Although, maybe one of them might come around next spring. 

With this week’s weather and the potential for snow, I’m thinking this year’s big wall season is over for me. I’ll be lifting weights in the gym, continuing to trail run (probably adding in more uphill and possibly weighted packs), and local sport climbing on good weather days. I’ll probably lean into some top rope solo work on 5.10/11s around here. Maybe even some TRS aid work…

re: Obviously you hope they have a ton of experience but what does someone really need? Do you need someone to take some of the leads or do you just need someone who can jug, clean and have basic big wall skills.
 

Skills are important of course. Being able to swap leads would be great but even there a skill differential is not that big of a deal. I love leading, so I want to lead all the good stuff. I feel greedy when I get more that my fair share. But if my partner can’t or doesn’t want to lead A2, perhaps he could lead all the easy free climbing pitches. Anyone want to tackle that 5.9+ off width squeeze chimney? I’d be happy to go second on that pitch. At a minimum, a big wall partner should be competent at placing gear and setting up super bomber anchors sufficient for following and hauling.

Beyond the basic skills, Attitude is so much more important than anything else. And free time, and days off that match mine, and flexibility to change the schedule at the last minute or to extend the climb if progress is slower than expected. But attitude mostly.

My own attitude comes and goes. As an example, my partner on the Nose was a super early morning alpine start kind of guy. I was more of a sleep in til noon and party all night kind of guy. This actually worked out well for us because he would be up before dawn making coffee and racking up while I was still mostly unconscious. I’d belay his blocks while the morning turned into day. We’d swap leads during the heat of the day and he’d start to fade with the sun going down. I’d grab my headlamp and power up. Charge!

The point is, my own energy comes and goes. If I have a hard pitch and start asking why am I doing this and my partner is like whatever, let’s go down. I could easily be convinced in that moment that it might be a good idea to go down only to immediately regret it once back on the ground. A partner who says, instead, fuck it, I’ll take the next pitch and we’ll just go a little bit higher would bring me along in his draft and we’d have more chance of success. Not that I need to be carried or anything, but your partner’s attitude can make a big difference.

A partner who wants the summit as much as you do can make a big difference. Sometimes I question my motivation and could be moved by nothing more than not wanting to let my partner down. On a solo trip, it is way too easy to get tired and look for the easy way out.

There’s more, a lot more, but mostly basic skills and a pulse would be a good start.

Thanks for all the insight.  I am really surprised that you are having such trouble finding a partner since you are willing to do most of the leading.  It seems like someone with good skills and ability, and who is willing to take someone without as much skill and ability, should have at leas a couple of options for partners.  If you are having a hard time finding a partner, my chances are even lower since I have pretty minimal experience and ability for right now.

Come on Charles- Swipe Right on Elliot!! 

Thanks Eliot and Quinn.

As I said above, I think the season is over for me this year. I’m busy with work stuff at least the rest of November and then family stuff most of December. Snow on the ground til spring, I’d guess.

Can I put my name on the list for someone generally looking for a big wall partner?   I'm a noob at bigwalling, but have taken a couple of courses and been mainly practicing aiding, hauling, etc...on my own similar to Elliot. Been difficult to find a partner here on MP. They've either bailed or flaked out. I'm not generally super strong at freeing, but don't think I'm an asshole in general??? I do feel that I am good with systems though and problem solving in addition to being mindful of things. Also, I think I generally have good mental resolve and don't freak out. Also have good knowledge of self-rescue techniques and principals too. 

But yes, as someone who hasn't done a wall, it can be difficult to find a partner. Seems like a person just need to get at least one wall in to break the seal and have people be willing to climb with them.

John Vangwrote:

Can I put my name on the list for someone generally looking for a big wall partner?   I'm a noob at bigwalling, but have taken a couple of courses and been mainly practicing aiding, hauling, etc...on my own similar to Elliot. Been difficult to find a partner here on MP. They've either bailed or flaked out. I'm not generally super strong at freeing, but don't think I'm an asshole in general??? I do feel that I am good with systems though and problem solving in addition to being mindful of things. Also, I think I generally have good mental resolve and don't freak out. Also have good knowledge of self-rescue techniques and principals too. 

But yes, as someone who hasn't done a wall, it can be difficult to find a partner. Seems like a person just need to get at least one wall in to break the seal and have people be willing to climb with them.

Hey, John, you don't live far from me. I've topped out one wall and spent five days on El Cap in a failed attempt at an obscurity with Dr. Piton. I'm not a great aid or free climber (Charles got to witness a pretty funny ass spanking fall when we were practicing on what was realistically probably a C1+ or maaaaybe C2 line) but I have good systems knowledge, own all the wall stuff minus a ledge and know about some practice spots I can't talk about on the internet. 

I don't know that I can commit to doing a wall with you or not, but I want to practice my aid stuff next winter and early spring in the hopes of topping out my second wall next Spring. The order of walls I would like to do next (other than potentially getting on obscurities with Charles) is Leaning Tower --> Southern Man --> The Prow.

I need to get my aid speed and proficiency up and there's the potential that we might be able to get on a wall if my other partners I've already committed to flake, which I'm learning is a not rare occurrence in big walling (unfortunately have had to do this twice myself this year also, yaaaay chronic health problems). My health is trending positive so I think by next spring I'll probably be good to do at least one wall, and I'd ideally like to do one in the Fall also, but my health does have to come first which unfortunately makes me not the most reliable of wall partners when my health is iffy as it is right now. 

But I can definitely commit to practicing with you! 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Hey, John, you don't live far from me. I've topped out one wall and spent five days on El Cap in a failed attempt at an obscurity with Dr. Piton. I'm not a great aid or free climber (Charles got to witness a pretty funny ass spanking fall when we were practicing on what was realistically probably a C1+ or maaaaybe C2 line) but I have good systems knowledge, own all the wall stuff minus a ledge and know about some practice spots I can't talk about on the internet. 

I don't know that I can commit to doing a wall with you or not, but I want to practice my aid stuff next winter and early spring in the hopes of topping out my second wall next Spring. The order of walls I would like to do next (other than potentially getting on obscurities with Charles) is Leaning Tower --> Southern Man --> The Prow.

I need to get my aid speed and proficiency up and there's the potential that we might be able to get on a wall if my other partners I've already committed to flake, which I'm learning is a not rare occurrence in big walling (unfortunately have had to do this twice myself this year also, yaaaay chronic health problems). My health is trending positive so I think by next spring I'll probably be good to do at least one wall, and I'd ideally like to do one in the Fall also, but my health does have to come first which unfortunately makes me not the most reliable of wall partners when my health is iffy as it is right now. 

But I can definitely commit to practicing with you! 

Hey Ricky. Sounds good! I'm always up to find someone to practice with as well. Can be a bit tough to gauge leading efficiency on TRS because it can just be a bit of a cluster. However, I know my lead efficiency game can use work and I'm always looking for new and better systems and ways to do things. I too would like to do Leaning Tower and The Prow along with Skull Queen. Was set to do LT a couple weeks ago, but unfortunately partner bailed. Overall, I have gear as well minus a ledge. However, I should be a getting a ledge soon from Luke. 

Glad to hear your health is trending positive. I've had my share of it as well and totally understand. Guess we can just stay in touch this coming year and see how our schedules match.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Well there's your problem. Being an asshole is 80% of sending. 

  Very true.

John Vangwrote:

 However, I should be a getting a ledge soon from Luke. 

ooohhhhh!!!!

A fellow “Golden Ticket Winner”!!!!

He makes killer ledges!!!! 

It's hard for me to make it out to Yosemite, but I'm an hour from Zion, so if anyone ever needs a partner there, let me know.  You've also got a place to stay before and after climbs at my house.  I've done some aid pitches on touchstone and I'd like to do a lot more.  I have a haulbag but no ledge.  

I'll put myself out there in consideration for late summer/next fall and include some info below about myself/experience so you can decide if you think I'm worth your time. I have not done a big wall yet, it has been a goal/dream of mine for awhile and I'd love to connect with somebody with experience who needs a partner. I am committed to training hard specifically for this and will put in whatever work is recommended and needed to ensure I'm prepared by the fall. Happy to chat further here or offline. Heck, I'll take advice from you guys even if you don't need a partner but have been in my shoes at one point.

• 36 years old. Located in Orange County, CA.  February '24 will be 3 years of climbing experience (2.5 yrs of that is trad, 90% of the time I'm climbing trad). 1-2x gym climbing weekly, 1-2x outdoor climbing at least 3 weekends a month, every weekend more often than not. At the time of this post (December '23) On sighting sandbagged jtree 5.8s, can work through jtree 9's without much issue. Leading 5.10a/a few 5.10b trad routes elsewhere.
• I've taken a week long alpine climbing and mountaineering course through International Alpine Guides, + other shorter classes on anchor building when I was getting started. Most recently finished VDiff Climbing's self-rescue online course, currently taking the VDiff Big Wall & Aid Course, reading Pete Zabrok's Hooking Up and Andy Kirkpatrick's Higher Ground. 
• Triple and a half rack. Set of peckers, couple cam hooks, set of skyhooks, aiders, alfifi, haul bag. Practicing aiding on my own mostly. Accumulating hauling gear to practice that next. 
• I can and do lead rope solo on gear. Top rope solo as well, of course.
• Plenty of multi-pitch climbs...Jtree, Red Rock, Mammoth, EPC, Tahquitz. Including Bear Creek Spire's north arete (5.8) during that alpine climbing course mentioned above
• I assumed I'd most likely do my first wall with somebody else unexperienced, so I have been targeting climbs in Yosemite that would be at least 10 pitches, require at least 1 night on the wall, and can be freed at 5.7/5.8 but I'm open to what a potential partner has in mind. I'm finding it to be tough to find a partner who is equally committed which is what brings me to this thread.

Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

I'll put myself out there in consideration for late summer/next fall and include some info below about myself/experience so you can decide if you think I'm worth your time. I have not done a big wall yet, it has been a goal/dream of mine for awhile and I'd love to connect with somebody with experience who needs a partner. I am committed to training hard specifically for this and will put in whatever work is recommended and needed to ensure I'm prepared by the fall. Happy to chat further here or offline. Heck, I'll take advice from you guys even if you don't need a partner but have been in my shoes at one point.

• 36 years old. Located in Orange County, CA.  February '24 will be 3 years of climbing experience (2.5 yrs of that is trad, 90% of the time I'm climbing trad). 1-2x gym climbing weekly, 1-2x outdoor climbing at least 3 weekends a month, every weekend more often than not. At the time of this post (December '23) On sighting sandbagged jtree 5.8s, can work through jtree 9's without much issue. Leading 5.10a/a few 5.10b trad routes elsewhere.
• I've taken a week long alpine climbing and mountaineering course through International Alpine Guides, + other shorter classes on anchor building when I was getting started. Most recently finished VDiff Climbing's self-rescue online course, currently taking the VDiff Big Wall & Aid Course, reading Pete Zabrok's Hooking Up and Andy Kirkpatrick's Higher Ground. 
• Triple and a half rack. Set of peckers, couple cam hooks, set of skyhooks, aiders, alfifi, haul bag. Practicing aiding on my own mostly. Accumulating hauling gear to practice that next. 
• I can and do lead rope solo on gear. Top rope solo as well, of course.
• Plenty of multi-pitch climbs...Jtree, Red Rock, Mammoth, EPC, Tahquitz. Including Bear Creek Spire's north arete (5.8) during that alpine climbing course mentioned above
• I assumed I'd most likely do my first wall with somebody else unexperienced, so I have been targeting climbs in Yosemite that would be at least 10 pitches, require at least 1 night on the wall, and can be freed at 5.7/5.8 but I'm open to what a potential partner has in mind. I'm finding it to be tough to find a partner who is equally committed which is what brings me to this thread.

I live close to you...  Maybe I can give you some instruction and advice.