My master carabiner has three items on it: the Dyneema loop for the PCD, the bight of the Z-cord, and the omniblock. I’ve been putting my Z-cord to the inside of the omniblock, as I find in home tests that it rotates more freely (PCD, cord, pulley). However, I see that in the first post and in more setups, folks have their omniblock to the inside of their Z-cord bight. Am I missing or misunderstanding a subtlety here?
My master carabiner has three items on it: the Dyneema loop for the PCD, the bight of the Z-cord, and the omniblock. I’ve been putting my Z-cord to the inside of the omniblock, as I find in home tests that it rotates more freely (PCD, cord, pulley). However, I see that in the first post and in more setups, folks have their omniblock to the inside of their Z-cord bight. Am I missing or misunderstanding a subtlety here?
It depends where you are standing in relation to the master while hauling, as well as the angle of the haul line to the pig. Usually, On slab, I find what you are describing to be the best orientation, as the 2:1 system will be between me and the wall during hauling. However, if your haul point is off to the side, or you're on a significant ledge causing a wide angle between the haul and the wall, then the reverse orientation can be optimal. A hanging belay could also result in the photographed option being better.
Take look each time when you setup to haul and ensure there are no pinch points. You may find yourself occasionally rotating an item around to keep things from rubbing.
Has anyone played around with the new pro trax that has the incorporated swivel? It seems like it could simplify some part of this but I’m not sure. Also, it’s quite expensive but that’s only so relevant in the grand scheme of this activity.
Has anyone played around with the new pro trax that has the incorporated swivel? It seems like it could simplify some part of this but I’m not sure. Also, it’s quite expensive but that’s only so relevant in the grand scheme of this activity.
Haven’t tried it- but at a glance I’d say it’s unnecessary in “This” system.. the Micro-Trax just takes a static load as you re-extend the Zed for the next stroke.. it’s not like you’re pulling a load through the pulley- you literally just use the rope grab part of it.. the wire draw orientates it good enough for this purpose..
the swivel is on the double pulley that the Zed runs through- and is handy for keeping things clean with different orientations- like when you need to haul offset to one side or the other.. etc
Hi all! Fist off thanks to Mark, Skot and everyone here contributing so much valuable information. I have a question about the setup that I don't understand that I would love to get some clarification on. In Mark's first post the latest greatest system used Skot's Steal perma draw to attach the micro trax to the same carabiner that had the Z chord and the CMC pro swivel.
My question is, is there any advantage to having all 3 things (perma to micro, the CMC pro swivel, and Z chord) attached to the same carabiner? Playing with the system I thought it might be more convenient to attach the micro trax separately to the "master" carabiner (the one on a bolt, shown in my image as the orange carabiner), is there a disadvantage to doing it this way instead?
Mark Hudonwrote:Skot Richards and I just climbed Aurora on El Cap and we used his hauling kit shown in the photo.
It is totally da bomb!
The Z cord is some beef, totally no stretch spectra type stuff that Skot found and the whole kit is not heavy it all.
If you need to put together a 2:1 kit, simply enlarge this photo to see specifically what the units are and go buy them. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel or be cheap. Skot and I have been working on the 2:1 kit for years and you will simply not make any significant improvements to it at this point.
You haven't attached it separately by using your method, whether it's a steel draw attached or a draw/biner/sling, they're still attached to the same master biner.
In your photo, the most obvious issue is that the microtrax is hanging very low and so you'll lose that extra distance with each cycle of the z-cord. You can use just a shorty sling doubled on the master biner as the connection point for the microtrax, as you'll find discussion of within this thread. As long as whatever connection you have for the microtrax allows for the microtrax to swivel a bit back and forth you'll be fine.
Edit: I just reread your description and I misunderstood which biner connection point you were talking about, the only issue with your system is that you're adding an extra master biner to the haul kit, as normally you attach the biner with everythjng attached to it to the bolt. This adds weight, bulk, and lowers the overall system from the anchor that will often times reduce the efficiency of how you set yourself up to do the hauling.
Hey Kevin, thanks for the good feedback. I was planning on tagging up the haul line and the kit so the weight and bulk won't be a problem but that makes sense that having it be lower being problematic. On thing you could also help me conceptualize is the master biner. My strategy was to lead, then set up a quad anchor with large "master" biners to the bolt(the orange one in my setup), and then clip the haul kit to that biner. If there are only 2 bolts at a belay does everyone make the the haul biner part of the anchor?
Hey Kevin, thanks for the good feedback. I was planning on tagging up the haul line and the kit so the weight and bulk won't be a problem but that makes sense that having it be lower being problematic. On thing you could also help me conceptualize is the master biner. My strategy was to lead, then set up a quad anchor with large "master" biners to the bolt(the orange one in my setup), and then clip the haul kit to that biner. If there are only 2 bolts at a belay does everyone make the the haul biner part of the anchor?
No, I think most people use a large locking carabiner on each bolt. Then everything else gets clipped to this. I haul off one bolt all the time to get the haul as high as possible on the anchor. So the main carabiner clipped to the bolt ends up with cord, plus my master hauling carabiner, plus docking carabiners for the bags. Things get full fast...just make sure you keep the anchor organized and anticipate what you want where. Here is an example picture of the way I do an anchor setup. The only difference in real life is that I would never haul from the center bolt....keep the haul/bags on 1 end of he anchor. So just move that 2:1 haul kit from the center over to the left where my bags are docked and that is how I run every anchor.
Hi all! Fist off thanks to Mark, Skot and everyone here contributing so much valuable information. I have a question about the setup that I don't understand that I would love to get some clarification on. In Mark's first post the latest greatest system used Skot's Steal perma draw to attach the micro trax to the same carabiner that had the Z chord and the CMC pro swivel.
My question is, is there any advantage to having all 3 things (perma to micro, the CMC pro swivel, and Z chord) attached to the same carabiner? Playing with the system I thought it might be more convenient to attach the micro trax separately to the "master" carabiner (the one on a bolt, shown in my image as the orange carabiner), is there a disadvantage to doing it this way instead?
The only disadvantage I can see is that the micro track is now a little bit lower. Having it on its own Beaner is completely neither here nor there.
Why do you feel the need for the lower two biners?
Mark I use those lower 2 for fixing lines and organization. Nice to be able to clip my aid ladders in lower down if I need to for hauling or access the haul bags.
Mark I use those lower 2 for fixing lines and organization. Nice to be able to clip my aid ladders in lower down if I need to for hauling or access the haul bags.
I see those things as completely useless but as I’ve always said, there are many ways to skin the big wall cat, and if your technique doesn’t slow you down or complicate things excessively it’s good to go.
You’re docking both of your bags directly onto that biner on the left.
For one, that causes the bags to hang together and be extremely difficult to get into. Also, you’re adding two biners to that one anchor biner and taking up a lot of space there.
Build yourself a “anchor kit”, two of your big locker beers should be set up like quick draws. The bags should be docked to those lower quick draw biners. This will keep the bags separate and it’ll also free up space on your anchor Biner.
I don’t see how your low biners gives you any advantage at all, fixing a rope or lowering out a bag can easily be done from the main anchor.
Build yourself a “anchor kit”, two of your big locker beers should be set up like quick draws. The bags should be docked to those lower quick draw biners. This will keep the bags separate and it’ll also free up space on your anchor Biner.
If you’re a good Hudon Disciple you’ll climb with “Hudon Anchor Kits” (pictured above) and tie your anchors with the rope.. you’ll then “dock” your Haul Bags vía each Bags personal docking cord (Skots Wall Gear) on the end of the DogBones…
the Cock-Dockers is what happens when 2 weirdos can’t just let a joke be a joke and actually have to get it custom made for their next wall…
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