Systems boards overuse and acute injuries (tension, kilter, grasshopper, moon)

Eric8wrote:

I built a 2016 MB in my attic.  Got serve synovitis from it.  Was climbing 2x3 times a week on it when this happened.   Have not been able to do a work on it since then.  Even a 1hr session 1x a week will make it more prone to flaring up again.  So back to just gym climbing like before...

So….you might be saying you have moonboard holds available for sale?

Eric8wrote:

I built a 2016 MB in my attic.  

I built a 2016 gobbly-gook in my basement.

Got serve synovitis from it.  

You got served?   It didn't give you anything, you did it yourself.  And you didn't do well in English, did you?

Was climbing 2x3 times a week on it when this happened.   

So, were you climbing two or three times a week?  Or 6 times a week?  Failed math, too.

Have not been able to do a work on it since then.  Even a 1hr session 1x a week will make it more prone to flaring up again.  So back to just gym climbing like before...

Let's see... you built a Moon Board (apparently) and then flogged yourself on it until you semi-permanently injured yourself and you blame the Moon Board.  Now you're back in the gym, probably too often, where you'll probably hurt yourself even further.  Get a clue, Eric.

John Byrneswrote:

Let's see... you built a Moon Board (apparently) and then flogged yourself on it until you semi-permanently injured yourself and you blame the Moon Board.  Now you're back in the gym, probably too often, where you'll probably hurt yourself even further.  Get a clue, Eric.

Harsh, but accurate…

Again, I think everyone's said it, but there's nothing special about boards. If you control your volume, intensity, and movement style, you can climb on them plenty without getting injured.

One thing to keep in mind (especially on the Moon Board) is that your ability to get volume on the boards is a function of your top-level ability. If you're a solid V8 board climber, then you have a lot of room to practice and get volume on the lower grades, because your strength and skill will drastically reduce the impact those moves have on your body. If you're just ticking the occasional V4-5 benchmark, though, you essentially have no leeway, at least on the set problems. In that case, your higher volume / practice sessions will need to use the board as a spray wall. Instead of climbing the set problems, you should just familiarize yourself with the holds: hold positions, move statically between them with open feet, that sort of thing.

Someone else mentioned it earlier in the thread as well. It's so easy to gloss over those sorts of comments and think they're just pats on the head—they're not. That is, straight up, the most valuable training I have ever done. Simply laddering holds you suck at, making sure to control every position and move statically between them, is better strength training than 99% of what people are doing in the gym. The benchmarks are fun and motivating, but climbing them isn't necessarily "training" any more than just climbing the gym sets is.