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Beta on Approach for East Buttress of El Cap or alternatives

Original Post
Chris Chung · · Sacramento, CA · Joined May 2022 · Points: 1

Hi everyone,

I'm thinking about East Buttress of El Cap. I've also heard that the approach may be difficult or inaccessible from rock fall. Any info would be super helpful. I heard the same about Serenity. A couple weeks ago, I did East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, if there are suggestions of nice long multipitch routes. I'm low-key working up to bigger aid/free climbs like Half Dome or routes on El Cap.

Thanks in advance

dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

I did it last fall. Was there some major event since then? I headed up the talus field from the left.
theoretically you could go up Moratorium and be at the base, but that requires 4 pitches up to 11b or c.

TaylorP · · Pump Haus, Sonora · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 50

The approach isn't blocked, it just walks under an area where major rockfall has come down.

The area around Serenity is closed because of a massive flake that has been slowly peeling off the wall over the last few weeks

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 195

Approach via Moratorium and pull on gear if you want a longer day practice. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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