Partial tear of distal biceps tendon
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A couple months ago I injured my distal biceps tendon (pulling down rope with a lot of drag on a top rope belay…what an annoying way to get hurt). I’ve tried a bunch of rehab and it hasn’t improved, so I finally went to a doctor and his recommendation was that for a high utilization activity like climbing I should get surgery. I have an mri and appointment with a surgeon so a few weeks before I need to make a call, but I wanted to hear others’ experiences. I’m still able to climb at the hardest level I’ve done, but I also have pain when doing anything with the bicep, including just holding a coffee cup I found another thread on here about complete tears, but would be curious to hear from anyone with a partial tear what you did and how it worked out. |
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Interesting. I haven't had an MRI, mainly because I just spent a lot of money on an MRI for me knee, but for the past year I have had the coffe cup pain. I injured the bicep in December of last year. I keep waiting for it to heal, but it doesn't. Physical Therapy did nothing for it. No advice for you, but I'm curious what you find out. |
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Tom Woodswrote: Yeah sounds similar. I’ll let you know what I hear and where I net out. |
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Josh Swrote: Digging this one up, for my own benefit I'd love to know what was found out |
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Boreal Strutwrote: The MRI said the tear was 50% thickness and the surgeon's take was that this was right on the margin — more than 50% and he'd recommend surgery. I ended up doing one last bout of rehab, this time with Matt Heyliger ( sendagain.co/) who is *by far* the most knowledgable PT I've ever worked with. Over the course of 3-6 months I was able to rehab it completely, so at around the one year mark I had no residual pain. These days (a bit over two years out) I'm able to do one arm lockoffs with added weight, board climb v9 & sport+trad climb 5.13 in my early 40s, so about as good an outcome as I would hope. I'm an N of 1 example so not sure how much of a conclusion you can draw but I think the biggest takeaways for me are that (1) it can be rehabbed but takes a long time and isn't guaranteed (2) the quality of the therapist you work with has a very material effect on outcome. Good luck! |
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Josh Swrote: I've worked with the worst PTs and some of the best, your words are very wise. Patience and some uncomfortable, possibly painful rehab works more often than not |




