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Acadia - South Wall - Easier Leads to set up Topropes

Original Post
Michael _ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,195

Hi all, 

A couple of friends and I are heading to Acadia in a few days. Otter Cliffs will be a must climb, but wondering if there might be some topropes that can be setup at South Wall after doing an easy/moderate lead. One example that seems doable from the guidebook is leading Wafer Step (5) to set up Recollections of Pacifica (9-).  Another seems to be Old Town (5.7) to set up Conn. Cracks (11a), London Bridges (8) and Swept Away (11d). Any other tips or recommendations would be welcomed!

Thanks in advance!

Michael

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Those both work—I would have suggested both those options. You can also access the ledges from which you can top rope Connecticut Cracks, etc. even more easily from the left—basically exposed 3rd class, though best to rope up with a few trees or a couple of pieces of pro. Some other places where you can set up top ropes on the island are Eagle Crag—easiest route is 10, on trail up Cadillac that starts across the road from Blackwoods Campground; Canada Cliffs, on the ‘quiet side’ of the island near the road into Echo Lake; and Great Head—routes on the right side ( looking out to sea) start from a ramp so aren’t serious, but those on the main part of the cliff do require either rappelling or lowering to just above the water, with communication issues, so are definitely significantly more committing even as top ropes. The tops of all 3 of these areas are easily reachable by walking, so climbing a route to get to the anchors is not necessary.

Eric Engberg · · Westborough, MA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Those ideas seem solid.  If you go up the 2nd pitch of Old Town you could tr the Seascape route

Michael _ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,195

Thank you for the replies! Yes, I should have also mentioned that info on TRs that don't require any leading would also be welcomed, ha. I'm the only leader with two seconds, so just want to be efficient with time to maximize climbing and get off the route. 

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 124

You can lead Trotsky and set up high wire and pipe dreams. There’s also four climbs on the stairs wall, which is on the other side of the stairs. Apparently you need to set gear anchors and they’re just considered top ropes left to right they would be 10 C 10 C 11 A and 11 B.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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