What's a set of nuts?

tldr; what's a set of nuts/cams/micro nuts?

Long version:

Ok, so I'm new to all this, but basically, I've been climbing about 2 months, and I want to get into trad climbing. Some descriptions of protection you need say things like two sets of nuts with offsets, a set or two of micro nuts with offsets, plus two or three sets of cams from .5" to 3.5". I've got no clue what a "set" is, plus what a set of nuts is, and what the difference between a micro nut set and normal set is.

Harry Cookwrote:

Ok, so I'm new to all this, but basically, I've been climbing about 2 months, I've led a 5.12a or two, and I want to get into multi pitch trad climbing. 

Homie, going bolt to bolt on a 5 bolt 40ft "12a" (consensus 11d), is a world apart from multi-pitch trad, let alone free climbing El Cap. If you look up DMM nuts or BD nuts you can see what constitutes a full set. It sounds like you need to make friends with someone who trad climbs and ease in on easy single pitches. You're cruising for a bruising at your current tilt.

Look at any online gear retailer. They sell nuts in sets. They also sell sets of micro nuts, aka brass aka brassies. Plus sets of offsets. Don't buy micro nuts made of aluminum, those are for aid climbing. 

Be careful equating skill in the movement domain to knowledge, experience, and wisdom about trad climbing. You're still going to want to start on mega easy routes where your risk of falling is almost zero (I'm talking 5.6). You're probably going to place poor quality gear at first, just like everyone else, that you won't be able to accurately assess. Best not to fall on it. 

Take it slow and have fun! 

I see you've ticked some stuff in Maple recently. I'm in SLC. Send me a message if you want some in-person instruction from an expert instead of relying on Mountain Project. 

My thoughts are, you don't need a set of nuts Harry, you need a friend with a set of nuts, or multiple sets:-). Hang out with someone who has been at the game for a while and soak up their knowledge. See what locals like to use and why that works etc etc. Once you figure out what you like, jump on a purchase. Around here, those Dmm Offsets (formerly HB Offsets) are loved, but I wouldn't take them on a super long route as they are likely the heaviest nut out there. Great nut exposition here: https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-climbing-nut

Likely the best source are folks doing fast laps on El Cap. Ask them what they carry for the various routes. My favorite nut, the Wild Country Offset Superlight, is made to like 1" across, but Chris Mc only reviews the small sizes. Good luck!

I Fwrote:

Homie, going bolt to bolt on a 5 bolt 40ft "12a" (consensus 11d)

Oh, yeah, no, blue sued shoes is not the 12a I was referring to, I've climbed a few other 12s in maple that I haven't ticked, just because I'm bad at using the app XD. But yes, I am 100% a world away from trad multipitch, I just have a habit of setting really ambitious goals XD. Thanks for all the help with what all the equipment is!

I recommend doing some research on what climbing el cap/big walls is actually like, videos like THIS one are much much more comparable to any experience you or I would have. Practically nobody free climbs big walls entirely, additionally it is important to know the differences between aid and free gear when asking questions like this. 

Additionally it is important to know that grades vary greatly depending on were you are, based on your tick list I see that you climb a lot in central Utah, I have always found the grading to be a little generous down there, for comparison I can lead 5:11a trad there and barely 5:7 up in the Wasatch. Good Luck, and as always, YUR GUNA DIE!

Harry, there's nothing wrong with setting really ambitious long term goals. I admire the stoke.

Your lack of knowledge as to what a set of gear is, is not what's holding back your progress. You need to start by taking a course in trad climbing. Either from a mentor or better from a guide.

To answer your question. A set or rack of nuts or cams is like says a set of wrenches or sockets. Cracks come in many shapes and sizes. So we need different size gear to fit those cracks.

By comparison a set of draws is like a set of steak knives. They are all the same, you just need enough for the route or group of guests.

It wouldn't be much of a goal if it was something you could leave the house and go do today, keep the ambition and stoke alive but figure out what you need to do to achieve it in good style.

A "set" of anything is going to be the two sizes listed at either end plus every size in the run from a single manufacturer in between.  What I've found is that most guidebooks provide a recommendation for a confident and competent leader at that grade which might leave a new leader looking for a lot more gear on their harness.  Don't be afraid to start with considerably more than what is described if you're cragging and learning what you're comfortable with and confident in.  Another suggestion is to start with some aid climbing as soon as possible to get a lot of experience quickly on placing gear.

Safe climbing!

This has gotta be a troll post, right?

Jeff Macwrote:

This has gotta be a troll post, right?

I'm surprised it has stayed so classy 

I was going to write this:

Harry, you must have a BIG SET OF B...for thinking of giving EL Cap a go as a noob and for being clueless about trad climbing. 

Well there you go, I ended up posting my opinion. 

giraud bwrote:

I was going to write this:

Harry, you must have a BIG SET OF B...for thinking of giving EL Cap a go as a noob and for being clueless about trad climbing. 

Well there you go, I ended up posting my opinion. 

Oh yeah XD. It's a year+ goal though, I'm not thinking about going any time soon

I thought the Falcon guide on Climbing Anchors was fairly thorough for an introduction.  I would recommend running down a copy to check out, or even purchase for your collection. (since you live in Utah, you can probably find any book on climbing at a local library).

A link to the falcon guides book: Climbing Anchors, Falcon

Harry Cookwrote:

Oh yeah XD. It's a year+ goal though, I'm not thinking about going any time soon

Saying you've led some 12's I think is disingenuous to your true skill level. As of July you're falling on short 10's.
You better have a lot of spare time (or trust fund?) to get some big trad milage in a year-ish time to be even thinking about the captain that quick.

Go to the valley, get lots of milage, preferably with a mentor who has done similar goals as your own. Trad is not in the same league as sport climbing in Maple and big wall trad is another layer on top.
You need to have gear placement, anchors, rope management, descending, ascending, aid climbing skills, crack climbing skills, and MANY other aspects, dialed before getting after that monster.... unless of course you want to pay Hans to guide you up, which you'll need to start practicing your jugging skills ASAP.

Climbing hard does not equate to the ability to tackle El Cap, remember that.
I just think with gumby glasses on you're not seeing, or even have the slightest idea, the true magnitude of what it involves. Don't become another statistic by allowing your stoke to get you into a bad situation that may have some life altering consequences.

 God Speed young Padawan.

nuts that come in a set

rocknice2wrote:

By comparison a set of draws is like a set of steak knives. They are all the same, you just need enough for the route or group of guests.

Not all steak knives are created equal.

JaredGwrote:

Not all steak knives are created equal.

Not all draws are created equal. Most climbers have a set of the same sport draws. Most kitchens have a set of the same steak knives.

Darren Mabewrote:

I'm surprised it has stayed so classy 

Ok, sorry to be the one, but …