Fairlee VT

When driving through Fairlee VT there are some large cliffs on the western side of interstate 91 (not the road cut for the interstate itself).  Anybody know about climbing history and/or access here?  Nothing here on MP or that I've been able to find online so far.  I can't believe that they're untouched but it seems likely that there are access issues from maps I've found.

Any insight appreciated.  Thanks!

I tried to find access one time and could not find a way in without either going through private property or crossing the interstate. I have seen folks looking off the top once. i hear that Chriss Gill tried to climb there once and called it a heap. it would be very noisy. 

Many years ago, the state police had to go rescue Some stranded climbers there. I also had a friend who was a very competent climber who did multiple first  ascents all over New Hampshire. .he said it was horrible . basically harder  than expected with very bad pro. Lots of loose rock .Also closed for peregrine nesting in the spring / early summer 

I think there is a hiking trail to the top... 

Bad pro can be solved with lots of bolts ...

Besides the falcons, I have also heard it's a pile of choss- but it's still standing so with enough work done, perhaps some routes could be unearthed... 

But realistically, it would be loud as shit and probably not a very enjoyable place to climb unless the routes were really stellar, which is hard to imagine . 

That said, I have a friend who loves to bolt choss and is pretty keen to explore it. 

There is a trail to the top.

I did not find that trail.....

I drive right past it every weekend and always look up at it.  I’m pretty sure that Jim Shimberg helped with peregrine banding there and was told that the landowner didn’t allow climbing.  

Thanks for the responses everyone.  About what I expected.  May do some more research on this over the winter.

With how Chossy it is. Is there any interest in scoping the area out as a mixed climbing training arena 

There's zero ice on that wall. Poor ethics even if climbing was allowed. 

Seconding Nick’s comment, I have looked up at that cliff many times each winter for decades and have never seen any ice. Given its visibility directly over I-91, any climbing there is clearly not permissible.

The trail to the top is the Palisades Trail, about a mile of mostly easy hiking - I live just on the other side of the river and have been meaning to make the hike up for a while, finally did yesterday. For what it's worth, there's a sign at the top (pic attached) that mentions climbing, although it is probably boilerplate text. As others have said, the cliff does have active peregrine nests most years. As for property issues, the trail up to the cliff (which would offer easy access from above) is owned / managed by the Upper Valley Land Trust, and I believe the cliff itself - Cliff's Cliff - is too. (Apparently the original Algonquin name was Senneemahgesso, meaning 'eagle rocks' - the area has been home to birds for quite a while.) It is obviously quite close to 91, although worth noting that there is a bit of an amphitheater below the main section that looks climbable/worthwhile that is actually set back a fair ways from the road.

Can't speak to the rock itself, but at least from afar it does look as though there are a few faces that would present interesting, possibly hard, climbing, if they are solid enough. The choss factor seems to increase to the far left and right, as one gets closer to the road. I may try and follow up with the UVLT and see what, if anything, the conservation easement has to say about climbing on the cliff. If anyone is doing any poking around, feel free to reach out.

Visited the cliff today with my son, probably 50*F on the top in the sun, seems like an ideal winter rock climbing venue, zero ice in sight.

 Interested in following this discussion. I can see value in both conservation and access, wondering if both are possible here. Hard to argue that this is pure wilderness with the highway and town right there, on the other hand the birds have a limited number of nesting areas and climbers have pretty well trundled every other rock face in the Northeast. Good arguments on both sides, selfishly I would love to climb here, but respect the community enough to wait and watch. 

Taking the summit sign that Conor posted in November, it is clear that access to the cliff is closed from March 15-Aug. 1. But, taking the sign literally, it does suggest that it is open to "hikers and climbers" the rest of the year, which is interesting. In his November post, Conor said that he would approach the Land Trust for more information. I am interested to hear if he did so, and any response he may have received.

Despite this, the cliff does appear to be extremely chossy---and 'fundamentally' so ( not just superficial looseness), and this was confirmed by a couple of friends who took a 'closer look' in the '70s. I also think that the closeness to and clear visibility from I-91 will likely make climbing there to be considered to be a traffic hazard, which also increases the likelihood that climbing there will not be permitted.  

Maybe if it's just a steep choss pile, it could be the dry tooling mecca that we need so badly...

It's completely dry. No ice drools. Noisy. 

https://www.wmur.com/article/detour-interstate-91-vermont-expected-remain-in-place/60058418

Might be choss after all. 

I've been up the trail to check this out as well but never rapped in, which I assume is the next step. There is also some rock outcroppings off of route 5 that look worth investigating. All that being said, if your in this area it's probably better to just drive to Owls Head.