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Weekdays, West Marin, 5.10s

Original Post
Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Hello all, I’m still working on my “climb all the 5.10s on the Marin Coast” project. Ticked #17 out of 32 today. I know, I know, there’s not 32 5.10s in the Mickey’s Beach section of Mountain Project. Heck, there’s not even that many in Thornburg’s book. But, … 

My perfect day is just working on one route until it goes.

May be boring for some, but if you are climbing at the same grade or willing to work on a route. Could be as much fun for you as it is for me. Also, sometimes we can set up a top rope on two routes- one for you and one for me.

High on my list:

The Great Gazoo at Shark’s Tooth

Fish and Chips at The Nugget

Any of the 5.10s at Mickey’s proper.

Travis M Foster · · NOVATO · Joined May 2021 · Points: 10

Ran into you last week when your were coming off the sharks tooth

Rae Stewart · · San Francisco, ca · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Hi Charles (and everyone,)

i’ll be at vent 5 tomorrow morning if there are any 10s there you’d like to get on

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Tomorrow = Tuesday?

I’ve done all the 10s at V5, but still need to tick “Whale if yer scared” (10c) at Motown and was looking at “Anzac Biscuit” (10-) nearby. What time were you going to be there and do you already have a partner for the day?

Rain F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0

I climb in the 10 range and am looking to go to Mickey's soon. Can't get on it until after regular work hours on weekdays but if you're ever there later than 5 I'd be happy to help you on your project.

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Sometimes I will meet up with partners to go for an after work session. A really focused session from 6-8 pm can be amazing!

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

I’m at 18 out of 33 now. Yeah, the total number of 5.10s went up by one. Found out that Anzac Biscuit, which is 5.9 in the book, is rated 5.10- by MP.

Gave it a go yesterday. Starts off fists, goes to hands and finishes off with finger locks. Mixed trad and a few bolts. Super line! Will have to go back for the RP though.

Jake Lekhtgolts · · California · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

Hey I’m going to be at mickeys for a while, text me if you want to make plans. 3235944745

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

20/33.

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

23/34

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Here’s my comprehensive list of all the  5.10s on the West Marin Coast from N to S:

Around Mickey’s:

Dracarys 10d

Peeping Tom 5.9+ or 10d? +?

Naked & Afraid 10d

Rust Never Sleeps 10a pg

Walkin’ a Thin Line 10b

Stemmer 10c pg

Siguapa 10a

The Egg:

Coffee & Cigarettes 10c

Green Eggs & Ham 10a

CA Slab:

Left Slab 10b

Right Slab 10c

CA Crack 10b r/x

Kim’s Gym:

Climb Naked 10b

Toxic Masculinity 10c

Toxic Femininity 10c

Micro Aggression 10a

Lillo 10a

I Don’t Know 10d

Kalyfornia 10c

Oh 10c

Motown:

Whale if yer Scared 10c

Anzac Biscuit 5.9 or 10-?

Vent 5:

Electric Blue 10b

Fall Punch 10a

China Pockets 10b

Bolly Boo Ball 10b

Solla Sollew 10c

Quilligan / Friendly 10a

Tower of the People / The Nugget:

Starfish Enterprise p1 @10c

Fish n’ Chips 10c

Wiggly Fingers / Shark’s Tooth:

Dino 10c

Baby Puss 10a

Flintstone Gummies 10a

Great Gazoo 10c

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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