Replacing Evolv Adjust cord with Petzl Pur Line 6mm

What are your thoughts on jugging with this and tethering both into anchors?

Seems super light and glides beautifully in the evolv mechanism.

Thanks for any and all help!

I feel like the pur line is both too thin and too slippery. 

I haven't used my pur line that much but it's still quite slick. 

I do replace the Adjust cord with 8mm. My last 8mm was quick slick and would not set for the first day or two until the sheath was scuffed up a bit. 

Would love to know if this worked! Or even better if Petzl made a smaller metal piece that was compatiable with the Rad or Pur line. (Rad seems like a better fit since it's sheath is rough). 

https://www.outlandusa.com/p/sterling-59mmpowercord-black-50m

One of my partners used this last fall season. I will probably switch my kit over to it as well. It’s really svelte, albeit a bit emotional the first couple times you  bet the farm on that one piece of 6mm cord. 

I've used a normal piece of 6mm for maybe 5 years, though I've never used it as my primary attachment point.  I initially started using it as my 3rd attachment point for positioning when I have a camera and I'm jugging.  More recently I've used the 5mm to attach to my top jug and then an 8mm to attach to my bottom.  I only do this when I'm trying to go light.  

I personally wouldn't use 6mm Pur or Powercord unless I was trying to go super light on an alpine climb.  For normal big wall use or multi pitch use I don't think going skinnier than 8mm is worth it.

When people replace the cord what are they using to attach it to the harness? I did this last year and used a competition knot which I think worked quite well, but was wondering if there was a better option. I had it set up as two separate lanyards rather than one two lanyard unit (which is what I wanted) so really interested in a method for attaching a single lanyard rather than a double.

Edit to add. I replaced with 7.5mm dynamic half/twin rope from decathlon, worked well imo. I did test it with some pur line at home and it seemed to work. In fact it seemed to work with 4mm accessory cord, for my bodyweight only tests anyway.

@fell over

i clove hitch directly to belay loop.  You can cinch maximally with that setup.

I swear the dimensions on the evolve adjust have changed over time. I couldn't get my new-ish one to stick with smaller diameters that others had good luck with. 9mm static is as small as I can go with mine without slipping. Also, the original chord it comes with now is thicker than the rope in the old ones. 

Luke Stefurak wrote:

I feel like the pur line is both too thin and too slippery. 

I haven't used my pur line that much but it's still quite slick. 

I do replace the Adjust cord with 8mm. My last 8mm was quick slick and would not set for the first day or two until the sheath was scuffed up a bit. 

Would love to know if this worked! Or even better if Petzl made a smaller metal piece that was compatiable with the Rad or Pur line. (Rad seems like a better fit since it's sheath is rough). 

Ok. Ask Quinn... I have been going mental with this. I could not get 8mm Beal Rando line to stick either; it slowly slips through when I free hang off of it. Happy to hear that you had the same experience. Quinn got his to work down to 5mm. 

And mine now even slips with broken-in 9mm static. 

As for the OP, can you please try the Pur line to see if it slips???

John Shultz wrote:

Ok. Ask Quinn... I have been going mental with this. I could not get 8mm Beal Rando line to stick either; it slowly slips through when I free hang off of it. Happy to hear that you had the same experience. Quinn got his to work down to 5mm. 

And mine now even slips with broken in 9mm static. 

As for the OP, can you please try the Pur line to see if it slips???

I can do this experiment on a camp swing. If anyone in NorCal has the Petzl evolve thingy I can bring my Petzl pur and with our powers combined we can do some climbing science. 

I jugged probably 10 pitches with the evolv swapped out with pur line. It didn’t slip at all. It’s fun to have something so light, but man it feels like spaghetti and a little scary. But I guess if you’re backed up with something else and have stopper  knots, it’s safe enough? I currently have 8mm cord in it to feel more warm and fuzzy. 

John Shultz wrote:

Ok. Ask Quinn... I have been going mental with this. I could not get 8mm Beal Rando line to stick either; it slowly slips through when I free hang off of it. Happy to hear that you had the same experience. Quinn got his to work down to 5mm. 

And mine now even slips with broken-in 9mm static. 

As for the OP, can you please try the Pur line to see if it slips???

Sounds like you have the cord loaded backwards/upside down. Take out the cord, flip the device and reload it

i just ran through some test with a couple cords on both Evolv and Swing.

My favorite ended up being BlueWater 8mm accessory Cord In the Evolv https://www.bluewaterropes.com/product/8mm-accessory-cord/

I also tested the Sterling 5.9mm PowerCord on a tip that it’s what some Valley Speedsters are now using in the Evolv.. https://sterlingrope.com/5-9-mm-powercord/ 

The 5.9mm PowerCord is super thin and actually has a higher strength than the 8mm. It seemed to work flawlessly in the Evolv, and while it did work in the Swing- it looked like there could be some weirdness with the skinny cord, as Swings create friction from a cord on cord scenario Vs Evolv’s Cord-Biner friction. can’t say it wouldn’t work.. but I wasn’t in to it.. 

if I was climbing with Evolv’s as “Daisys” to tether my Ladders, and using a separate Alfifi- the PowerCord could be a pretty interesting option..  super thin and light!! 

for my use I was planning to climb “Daisyless” with one Evolv clipped off to the side- and the other being used in place of an adjustable FiFi.. so I’d be extending, clipping, then winching myself up on every piece- and I found the size of the 8mm felt more comfortable in my hand for pulling myself up and in to the piece.. 

I just did 1 day on this set-up leading a handful of easy aid pitches and a bunch of jugging - but it worked great for me.. never slipped and was super clean at the connection point.. 

Hey folks,

RIght on. 

RIcky... Thanks for the kind testing offer. Please report back. 

Wyatt, fascinating. Mine won't slip with 8mm if I am standing in aiders. But if I free-hang it slips really slowly. Have you tried just free-hanging on the Pur line?

Jeff, that is a natural assumption. And playing around I have strung it backwards. But backward there is no friction at all. This is a slow creep as Luke notes above. 

Quinn! Thanks for that post, amigo. Interesting that it worked so well for you. It is beautifully simple and light. Great point about going too thin to operate well. 

Cheers, dudes.