what the heck cam is this?

I'm also interested in whether these are worth the premium? Seems like a nice piece to keep around for anchoring on LRS, as you would never need to be climbing with the weight of it on your harness. But only if it's durable and bomber, ofc

I bought one last. August. It is definitely different and I was skeptical. But it places quickly and very well.  With practice yo can get it reset and placed one handed. I ordered straight from AC in Italy and had it in hand in about 10 days. 

Hi JC, thank you for using Angel AC. just for info, during the last year we have improved the functionality of our gear; a small adjustment of the springs, making it softer in use. the safety is the same. If you wish, you can send us your Angel AC and we can upgrade it and send it back without charges.

Also, I'll have you know that recently we increased the production of Angel AC and now the process is more efficient and faster, this has made possible a decrease in the selling price which is currently 160 Eur (+ VAT for EU countries).

A version of Angel AC will also be available soon that will cover larger ranges 42-135mm... keep in touch!

J Ewrote:

I'm also interested in whether these are worth the premium? Seems like a nice piece to keep around for anchoring on LRS, as you would never need to be climbing with the weight of it on your harness. But only if it's durable and bomber, ofc

My primary use is for making anchors when rope soling, TRS or LRS. Between it and some link cams I can cover all the sizes I could potentially need in 3 cams. It is a niche piece but it works quite well.

A bigger one could be cool, but when i'm using bigger gear typically I bump that gear up as I climb, which these don't do well IME.

of course, I understand. the main improve of ANGEL AC is that the cam's closed when you put it on your harness, so the dimension does not prevent free movements in climbing. 

Do I understand that the arms are held in place while extended, using ratcheting gears?  What is the shock force necessary to shear thos gears?  If sheared the arms collapse purposional to the number of gears sheared, correct?

Sam Ryanwrote:

Do I understand that the arms are held in place while extended, using ratcheting gears? What is the shock force necessary to shear thos gears? If sheared the arms collapse purposional to the number of gears sheared, correct?

Well, it couldn’t be any less than 11kn

J Ewrote:

Well, it couldn’t be any less than 11kn

Maybe, all I've seen is steady pull tests, not shock-load tests?  If the arms collapse when the gears strip, then the cam heads would have to extend to compensate, proportionally.  I'd guess that at the upper end of its range, even 1-2 gears stripping would be catastrophic.  Mind you, I'd very much like to be wrong.

I can’t imagine 1-2 gears stripping. Seems like an all or nothing deal to me. You could wear the tips of the teeth down or shear the whole set. 

Hello I'm Lucia from AC, sorry for the intervention.

To have more information about holding force, you can see this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExWnRD7leeU
Angel AC has stood at 5 falls with factor fall 2 with dynamic rope, and 1 fall with  whipping on static rope, in this case the Kevlar cord broke, never the gear.  completed the dynamic tests, we replaced the Kevlar and we tested it in static and it broke at 14kn.

In the static test bench the rope or gear always breaks above 14kn. this is a video of 2 year ago with final prototipes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doEodZaCi6Q
As regards the gear wear, have not suffered any problematic consumption even after hundreds and hundreds repeated openings.

Even after a whisk of 5kn it can easily extracted from the crack (tested on both bench and rock) https://www.instagram.com/p/CgzPZXsjFEm/?img_index=1
just act quickly with on the push/pull element as you see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z13iIaZHafw&t=10s 

I hope to have clarified some doubts! thanks and sorry again!

After viewing Ryan's from HowNOT2 video, I fell like I should share my experience with the Angel. I have this cam for a bit over a year, have been climbing with a fair bit, trad or alpine, have lend it to friends, so here is my feedback.

Pros: The AC Angel from Alternative Current isn’t your typical camming device—it's a rock-solid innovation that packs a punch.

• Built Tough: Let me tell you, as an engineer, this thing is sturdy, very sturdy. I've got zero concerns about the ratchet mechanism in this beast. It's rock-solid, capable of handling serious loads—trust me, mine's been through its fair share of dirt -I need to clean it- and still works perfectly. The level of reliability it offers on the wall is there. 
• Range Matters: It's a game-changer on simpler Alpine routes where I know I won't be placing tons of gear. Instead of hauling a multitude of cams, the AC Angel roughly covers sizes #0.75 (tough at 0.75, but think smaller than #1) to #4, lightening the load while insuring range of options. It has joined my rack on such adventures, with the nuts and tricams. So a worthy addition to anyone going on such trips.
• Power in Unconventional Placements: Where other gear struggles, the AC Angel excels. Its strength truly shines in larger flaring cracks, tackling irregular shapes, and snugly fitting into weird pockets where conventional cams simply can't, filling a void in climbing gear. For that alone it is a valuable addition to any rack. Of course people have been climbing routes before the Angel. But hard climbs where sent before cams, or even nuts, yet everyone got nuts and cams now...
• Anchor Assurance: On regular trad routes, the AC Angel serves as an excellent anchor piece. Its  versatility and reliability ends any concerns about preserving specific gear for the anchor. It does bring me peace of mind. I could even consider getting a 2nd one for that function... 

Cons:

• Weight Consideration: At 276g, the AC Angel isn't featherlight. However, it's just 18g heavier than a C4 #4—relatively comparable. On swift, lightweight missions, it still proves advantageous compared to hauling multiple cams.
• Learning Curve: Using the AC Angel isn't rocket science, but it's not your ready-to-go cam either. It requires a bit more finesse, so taking the time to familiarize yourself with it on the ground is crucial for understanding its nuances.
• Bumping Limitation: While it snugly fits where placed, it lacks the ease of adjustment on the climb. Unlike some cams, it's not easily bumped up once set. That's why it hasn't entirely replaced my #4—it doesn’t quite fill the bumping role when needed.

Now some things I feel could be improved on the Angel:

• Shorten the Stem: That long, long stem? It’s a bit of a nuisance. I understand the need for the ratchet locking mechanism and lever, but yet. Maybe slimming it down in future versions would be a serious improvement. Maybe think a sleek double cable setup instead, or something similar to Alien-like cams, with a cable sliding in a tube?
• Lobe and Ratchet Handoff: main pain point. So, when you pull the trigger, you first retract the lobes, then open the ratchet. Well, the ratchet thing kicks in a bit too easily. Maybe extend the lobe range or toughen that transition up a notch to avoid accidental engagements?
• Stabilizer Mystery: Those stabilizers that extend the arms? They often don't engage consistently. Surprisingly, the AC Angel holds even without them, but they sometimes mess with perfect placements. Are they really necessary?
• Size up the Lobes: The lobes could use a little enlargement for better visibility. This adjustment could also afford the AC Angel greater versatility, improving its adaptability to various rock formations and potentially simplifying bumping.
• Slim the Central Arm: Two lobes in the central arm bulk things up. How about a sleeker, single-lobe setup, TCU-like? It could lighten the load and trim the device's size.
• Lighten Up: The Angel feels strong—like, really strong. But maybe it’s a bit overbuilt. Exploring ways to slim down the arms could significantly reduce its weight. A 12kN strength rating is sufficient. Additionally, altering the attachment of lobes to the arms, adopting a single-side attachment as seen in regular cam lobes, might also aid in weight reduction.
• Extendable sling instead of this weird cordelette? It is likely a manufacturing limitation but a DMM Dragon II -like slings on these Angels would be great.

The AC Angel feels like an initial iteration in its evolution. Acknowledging the extensive prototyping undergone, there's still room for considerable advancements. Considering how far cams have progressed since the first Friend, I'm excited to see how Angels will be in the future. I know AC is working on a bigger version: I am looking forward to try and buy that, but they better call it the Archangel. It’s got serious potential in the climbing gear scene!

Hi LouSak, I'm Lucia from AC. I and Matteo thank you very much for your very clear and complete feedback.

We'll take into account all that you wrote.

Big-Angel’s production is coming up, and if you buy it, I can’t wait to hear what you think!

LouSakwrote:

...

Pros: The AC Angel from Alternative Current isn’t your typical camming device—it's a rock-solid innovation that packs a punch.

...

You know you have to tell us if you're getting any consideration for writing that, or have any kind of past/present/future relationship with AC... Right?

Like when the cops try to bust a hooker -- they HAVE to admit they're a cop, if they get asked. Otherwise, it's entrapment.

Great review -- it's just that I keep seeing these Angel cams popping up in guerilla marketing situations that are pretty transparent. So I'm curious if that's what this is.

Ryan Lynchwrote:

You know you have to tell us if you're getting any consideration for writing that, or have any kind of past/present/future relationship with AC... Right?

Like when the cops try to bust a hooker -- they HAVE to admit they're a cop, if they get asked. Otherwise, it's entrapment.

Great review -- it's just that I keep seeing these Angel cams popping up in guerilla marketing situations that are pretty transparent. So I'm curious if that's what this is.

Just a private citizen who doesn't have any relations with AC. I just shared my honest thoughts: it's a cam that is unmatched in certain uses (light missions with few gear placements and large flared or weird cracks) but with the caveat of being more finicky to use than cams of the same range. A useful addition to a rack, but not a mandatory one. Also I make no mystery my engineer side as a soft spot for the engineering behind it. I also just love gear and their physic.

Ryan Lynchwrote:

You know you have to tell us if you're getting any consideration for writing that, or have any kind of past/present/future relationship with AC... Right?

[…] - it's just that I keep seeing these Angel cams popping up in guerilla marketing situations that are pretty transparent. So I'm curious if that's what this is.

I think people are just excited about something new (and functional) in climbing protection.

LouSakwrote:

Just a private citizen who doesn't have any relations with AC. I just shared my honest thoughts: it's a cam that is unmatched in certain uses (light missions with few gear placements and large flared or weird cracks) but with the caveat of being more finicky to use than cams of the same range. A useful addition to a rack, but not a mandatory one. Also I make no mystery my engineer side as a soft spot for the engineering behind it. I also just love gear and their physic.

Fair enough... No shade, I do 100% take you at your word.

You do write good, and you did gave us a useful, actionable explanation of the whole point of the Angel, versus other cams. It's appreciated.

Ryan Lynchwrote:

Fair enough... No shade, I do 100% take you at your word.

You do write good, and you did gave us a useful, actionable explanation of the whole point of the Angel, versus other cams. It's appreciated.

You do write good.....

....LOL