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Personal Top Colorado 9+ Lists

Original Post
Jesse Morehouse · · CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,139

I love the 9+ grade on older trad lines. They keep a little bit of the magic of not knowing what you are in for except that it wont be easy. It definitely keeps me humble thinking about the guys who established them with a paltry rack and a lot of skill. With my middling abilities, modern shoes, and robust rack I'm still always psyched to get up those things clean! 

So I was thinking about what my favorites were and curious what others thought. 

My top 3 would be:

  • 1. P1 Finger Fanger (most difficult, most spectacular?)

2. P2 Center Rte, Cyn Pyn

3. P1 Martyr 

Seriously Moderate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Green Spur and Direct South Face of Notchtop

Javier Goldstein · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 45

My favorite would be hair city in eldo which I also believe gets 9+

TJ Bindseil · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

West face on bell buttress gives a good spanking…

Chris Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 15
TJ Bindseilwrote:

West face on bell buttress gives a good spanking…

After having a struggle fest a few weeks ago, 2 years after my first try on this, my ego appreciates you saying this.

TJ Bindseil · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0
Chris Johnsonwrote:

After having a struggle fest a few weeks ago, 2 years after my first try on this, my ego appreciates you saying this.

I got you fam!

on the theme of boulder canyon I think gorillas delight is also very sandbagged (and awesome!)

Jesse Morehouse · · CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,139
Seriously Moderate Climberwrote:

Green Spur and Direct South Face of Notchtop

Do you mean Direct South Ridge? I'm not familiar with climbing in the Park but could not find a Direct South Face route listed?

Seriously Moderate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Yes, it's Direct South Ridge!  My memory was rusty.

Jesse Morehouse · · CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,139

Gotcha. I feel your pain. That must be a solid sandbag - I see I listed as plain 9! Definitely on the bucket list now. 

Jeff G · · Buena Vista · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,273

Syke's Sickle is as wild as 9+ gets!

Aiden Nova · · Denver · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Direct S. ridge is 9- and a definite classic. Pearly Burly Brooke is an obscure but stellar climb listed at 9+, worth the weird hike in. 

Pitch 3 of directissima is probably the king of 9+. Makes the airy 10b after feel significantly easier. 

Matt Coghill · · Teton Valley, ID · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 5

Definitely the edge of time in THE Jurassic park hits the number one spot for me.
really filled with logistically cruxes, but absolutely worth it for its exposure, ability to overnight on the 2nd pitch to project the 3rd in the morning before the piercing sun from the east makes it too hard to climb.

Best of luck. Be sure to film your ascent!

Eden Bolick · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 40

Just gonna drop this down here, hope it helps. If you are looking for a 9+ I'd suggest checking out Estes Park, Colorado. Park at lily lake and hike to the remote zone, Jurassic Park. This Backcountry climbing area is popular and located on BLM land. Alpine start so you can get in line for 'the edge of time.' Good luck, bring a double rack.

Powell Nicodemus · · Cheyenne · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 26

Breaking the rules here with some North(of)Colorado, Vedauwoo.

Penetration.

Baalbek.

Lower Progressive.

Doctor Choss · · Arvada, CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 5

J-Crack, Yellow Spur, Green Spur & Center Route

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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