New and experienced climbers over 50 # 25

Lori, just a terminology reminder. Retrobolting is new bolts on previously un or "under" bolted routes. Rebolting is bolt replacement of ancient stuff that is, or will soon become, dangerous. HUGE difference.

The "one more bolt" thing is 2 things, to me. First  what I run into a lot, stuff bolted decades ago that was just some bolts thrown on, for the strong climbers who climbed there. Not for the masses, there weren't any yet, nor for future generations. And they didn't "waste" hardware on easy climbs. So now, decades later, wankers like me face climbing stuff that really would climb far safer and be more fun with that "one more bolt", but it's the route as a whole that would have been much better if spaced a wee bit less ground fall prone. No fixing it now, live with it.

Now, the "one more bolt" at one specific spot on a route? That's probably a stretch where a bit of gear could be placed, or, a stretch that's deemed so easy "no one would ever fall off". Again, back then vs now.

As to new routes on Bath rock? Bolts here are very well camouflaged and hardly an eyesore. I do get that their mere existence is anathema to some, but, new routes and hardware placements have to go through a lengthy vetting process. It isn't a free for all, thank goodness for that. 2 new routes on Bath last season, and one that had the last anchor bolt (mid point on a 2 pitch) added on about 6/2 this year.

Granted, I'm a lot shorter than Guy, but, there isn't much bolting at COR that I'd describe as "body length". And, there's still delightful faces almost devoid of protection of any sort. Now, the Castle rock part of COR definitely has an abundance of bolts, but, most of it went up about 2004ish and later. It's also a much smaller area. Lots of routes, closer together. 

Nowhere in COR is there anything like gym spacing, however much people might grumble, it just isn't true. And, there is actually not much bolting at all, in easy grades, 5.6-7 is quite scarce. 5.5 and under are solo territory, sometimes protectable with gear, often not. The only exception I can think of is the recent addition of the rap anchor to the 5 easy down climb off the Bread loaves.

My vote for crazy close bolting is Maple Canyon, but that's part of the backstory of the place, and by necessity. It's a great bit of the history there. Only z clip I've seen outside of the gym!

Lori, even without leading, you might gain some sense of how leads go, just watching, or belaying. I don't lead much, but I can definitely get a pretty good feel for routes when I'm climbing, especially if I'm looking to evaluate them. What I can reach, what most should find doable, what's intimidating, what's flat out scary, and what simply sucks, lol! Not much of that last category at COR, imo.

This last trip to COR, a new route (one of 2) on Radicella is a great addition. Does exactly what it set out to do, making a safe way for some top ropes to be put up on easy, bolted leads, which then lets families, youth groups, etc romp all over a fun easy face.

Now if they can just get the Flaming rock trailhead parking mess straightened out....

Best, Helen

Kristian Solemwrote:

Oh, I know. At this point I have what I think are well formed opinions, and I'll express my point of view in a place like this, but I'm not the activist I was at one time. It's pointless, really.

Not pointless, but most of us are much more likely to pick what's worth it.....and what isn't.

Sometimes, things aren't even a battle at all. Just takes one single person posing a question ...and the change happens.

That, "oh, duh" moment I created was at my workplace, 20 plus years ago. Take Your Daughter to Work Day. This mom asked if maybe it might be nice for sons to understand that mom's work... 

And that was that.

Take Your Child to Work Day, ever after.

Best, Helen 

I’m my little world it’s cold raining and miserable with some minor flooding. Which means I can’t ride my motorbike and I’m a little sad. I get very effected by the seasons. I was able to climb outdoors a week ago but it’s mainly indoor climbing now, both roped and bouldering.
I’m now able to lead the gym’s easier (grade 18?) long roof route easily. I’m practicing resting on the route and while resting planing the rest of the moves. Was also able to TR a grade 22 (5.11b) again last night, it’s a pumpy technical route on an overhang that comes down to one hard move right at the end.
Finally got in to the ‘sixty fours’ at 64.9 kilos and 12.8% BF.  

At least we’re now past the shortest day (winter solstice).

Carl Schneiderwrote:

I’m my little world it’s cold raining and miserable with some minor flooding. Which means I can’t ride my motorbike and I’m a little sad. I get very effected by the seasons. I was able to climb outdoors a week ago but it’s mainly indoor climbing now, both roped and bouldering.  

At least we’re now past the shortest day (winter solstice).

Hang in there!

I had an experience yesterday (our first day of summer) that I would never have believed possible - I climbed in Las Vegas.  It was uncharacteristically cool in Vegas as I was scheduled to pass through on the way home and I stopped off for 2 days of climbing with my Vegas partner.  Yesterday it was in the 90s in town, and 80s in Red Rock, but we went up to Mt. Potosi to do some easy limestone sport climbing.  It was cool enough (70s) in the sun at 8 AM for the uphill approach, but our cliff was in the shade.  At 5000 feet the temps were really just perfect!  We knew we wouldn't keep the sun away for too long so we climbed 4 hours without a break, did nine routes and then were satisfied enough to stop when the sun finally came around to the NW face at 12:30.

Old lady Hwrote:

Not pointless, but most of us are much more likely to pick what's worth it.....and what isn't.

Sometimes, things aren't even a battle at all. Just takes one single person posing a question ...and the change happens.

That, "oh, duh" moment I created was at my workplace, 20 plus years ago. Take Your Daughter to Work Day. This mom asked if maybe it might be nice for sons to understand that mom's work... 

And that was that.

Take Your Child to Work Day, ever after.

Best, Helen 

That's a cool story!   

The activism I was referring to was about bolting, not larger societal issues. 

Yesterdays solstice photo

 Finally got out climbing today after work. Isa is on IR :(  so I took out a youngster who just got back from a NOLS course in Patagonia and got totally hooked on climbing. I mamaged to lead OK despite only getting out about 5 times this summer.. I totally miss my old home crag where I could solo a bunch of steep but secure climbs with great exposure. . 

 the buggs were pretty bad and I had a tick on me when I got home..  made it in time for sunset with Isa and Bernie.

Inspirational, Nick!  That looks like fun climbing.  

I'm having a great time here, too, now that summer is in full swing.  The Park is empty, and it feels like I have endless miles to roam alone.  Endless.  Listen to whatever music I want, sing... I wake up thinking "where do I want to go today?" and head out. Today I just didn't want to come back home--coulda stayed out all day.  The more I hiked the more energy I had.

I thought I could give up White Room.  I have spent too much time wondering and trying to figure it out.  No one else has caught the fire, so maybe it's a shitty route.  But from the top of the Sentinel, staring at it, my own stoke just lit up again.  So, I hiked back to have another look... I think I may have it figured out. (how to get to the base, the easiest approach).  But also, I have a special perch... a place I can sit and marinate right beneath it.

Meanwhile.  My best friend Mallory has been here with me since Tony left.  I have some things to think about.  We have been talking about all living together for quite some time, so this visit was partly to see how it felt for her to be here.  This could be the beginning of that commune I always wanted.  Mal is 71.  I'm about to be 70.  And now we are at that time of life when things could go wrong.  In the 1+ week she's been here, Mal hasn't left her LazyBoy.  Except to grab lunch somewhere, and that wore her out.  We laugh and cackle like we always did... but things like 'diet' and 'exercise' produce eye-rolls.  It just never was her thing.  But she loves waiting here for me to come home.  She loves PBS Midsommer Mysteries... which I put on for her every night because she doesn't know how to use the remote.  She likes figuring out dead bodies.

Mal has a little dog... 1/2 chihuahua and half terrier.  This is one out-of-control little dog who barks and yelps any time it gets nervous.  If it can get out the front door it will go after the neighbor, the postman.  First... what the HELL do little dogs think when they act like a pit bull?  If I were a little dog I would not want to draw attention to myself.  I'd lay low. This dog just goes for it. But more distressing.... this dog goes nuts at meal times.  She begs, yelps, spins, leaps and barks throughout the entire meal.  "Mal, doesn't this bother you?"  Mallory says she tries to ignore it.  Can I kick this dog?  Put it in another room and it scratches and yelps.  

I'm pretty sure when Tony walks in the house, there's going to be a battle--and he will win. 

SO many things to think about here.  (thus, the perch above.)  How do we take care of each other now?  How do we share ourselves during this '3rd Act' of life?  What about the baggage we each bring, (ie out of control dog).  It could be me that gets sick (as I learned this year), or me that falls of a rock.  Just because I'm the strongest now, doesn't mean I can't succumb and need a friend. 

Thoughts and opinions are welcome on this.  I'm having some angst.

Cream. An incredible concert. Jack Bruces voice was amazing right up until he died.  

Well, she's your friend....

For me?

Nope. No desire to concede anything to anyone, not for a good long time yet. My house, my space, my life. The concession is my little old lady kitty, but that's it. 

Now, down the road?

Dunno. 

But I only recently got this gloriously liberated second chance at life, so my circumstances are (sorta) different. You've cut some ties, made choices for your own self, finally, not for everyone else first...but you also had Tony pop into your life. Iirc, that was not at all going to be a thing, but here you are, lol! He's a sweetie, too. 

I do, in general, think planned communities of cohousing, shared resources, and mixed ages could be a reasonable thing, but that's just a philosophical thing, not one I'm thinking to act on. 

Best, Helen

in my experience communes don't work. there is always the folks who take  more than they give or the people that end up being oil and water and just can't get along but you would never know that untill its too late.... 

Old lady Hwrote:

Well, she's your friend....

For me?

Nope. No desire to concede anything to anyone, not for a good long time yet. My house, my space, my life. The concession is my little old lady kitty, but that's it. 

Now, down the road?

Dunno. 

But I only recently got this gloriously liberated second chance at life, so my circumstances are (sorta) different. You've cut some ties, made choices for your own self, finally, not for everyone else first...but you also had Tony pop into your life. Iirc, that was not at all going to be a thing, but here you are, lol! He's a sweetie, too. 

I do, in general, think planned communities of cohousing, shared resources, and mixed ages could be a reasonable thing, but that's just a philosophical thing, not one I'm thinking to act on. 

Best, Helen

Not so different, Helen! I feel like I just freed myself, too. And then spent a year sick… with something awful but im 80% recovered. I don’t want anything holding me back.  I don’t even want to be beholden to a houseplant!  It was a huge step to plant those tomatoes because I KNEW I wouldn’t want to leave town (and I haven’t).  

But this nuclear family idea didn’t work out so well either. And the entire time that my son was dying from heroin addiction, not one person came to my door to ask how I was holding up or if I wanted to go out for a cup of coffee.   That was 10 long years of trying to save the world by myself.  We need each other, I’m just not sure HOW we need each other. I know you understand this well, Helen.

Mallory has been my best friend since we were 15 and 16. We were so much alike for so many years. In many ways we still are. now she has no living family. It kills me to put the Handicapped placard on my dash wherever we go… but one day I may need it, too.

Gosh, memories are hard. I KNOW you can relate… people would say “tough love”. Are you going to step over a dying (sick, OD’d) person and go enjoy yourself?  

I’m ready to burn down the world with what days or months are left to me. 

Lori?

Do you want to be a caregiver? Again?? Already???

You can care for people....but nothing says you have to do that in person, except if that's a legal obligation, like SMALL children. Even spouses are only as obligated as they choose to be. 

This is a topic in Jewish discussion, what does "Honor thy parents" mean, in practice? In modern times?

One legitimate interpretation is that it is our obligation to make sure that our parents are fed, housed, generally taken care of adequately, depending on their circumstances.

But we most certainly can hire others to do so, any or all of it. That's acceptable, in Jewish law.

On the other end of the spectrum?

One of the greatest mitzvot (acts of kindness/charity) one can perform?

Is preparing a body for burial. It's a totally selfless act, which the recipient has no knowledge of, nor any possibility of even acknowledging it, let alone reciprocating. No obligations. Washing, anointing with oils, a simple linen wrap, and burial in less than 24 hours, usually. A plain pine coffin at most.

How a  modern day funeral home fits into that, with a huge amount of folderol, expense, and massive profits when people have few choices in a difficult time, I dunno. Not at all, really. But you get the idea.

Anyway, honor your friendship however you see fit, obviously....but the 2 of you sure don't seem like a very good fit for room mates, from your descriptions. Plus, there's Tony, too. 

Best, Helen 

Lori, 

There is nothing we can do about fate (be it genetic or accident), but the choices we make during our life will have great impact on our older years. Only we are responsible for these choices.

It sounds as though your friend made her choices and unfortunately is realizing some of the negative results. 

You may offer advice and consolation, but you are not responsible for her lifestyle decisions. 

I will also observe, as an owner of a small mixed breed dog, your friend's dog's behavior (barking, begging, etc.) is almost entirely your friend's fault. 

You can be a friend, but you can never "save" someone from their self. That is a fools errand that will end with only more casualties.

I got woken up this morning by a little dog giving me a tongue bath. She wants to be friends. Of course, Randy is right. This is entirely on my friend. I still would like to know what evolutionary purpose it serves for a tiny dog to square off with a Rottweiler.    

I decided to hike up and visit Dave this morning. Perched on the base of Bottle in Front of Me. There is not a soul anywhere. This is about as alone as one could be.

I’m filled with gratitude this morning… thinking of the great gift of having a coach/mentor who has been willing to get me as up to speed as possible in this climbing world.  It’s just, you know, not something I would ever have learned on my own.  If I have goals for the year it is still to be “the best climber I can be.”  And I guess that means to climb as far and broad as I can.

I almost stepped on this little guy this morning. I wasn’t sure what to do… move him off the path or leave him be. A little bit dusty and a little bit scared… I didn’t want to make it worse.  

Lori Milaswrote:

I almost stepped on this little guy this morning. I wasn’t sure what to do… move him off the path or leave him be. A little bit dusty and a little bit scared… I didn’t want to make it worse.  

It's illegal to touch them, although apparently they make an exception if the tortoise is on the road.

I asked who this is.  “Dimes, Little Imp.” Does he have another name?

On J Tree So High. 1988

Ok. It’s Kevin Powell.

Jan how are your tomatoes doing? I’m having a bumper crop without a single worm.  Been eating them right off the bush like apples. Man they’re good!  I have also been advised to fry some of the green ones. 

I don’t know how but I think Russ has had something to do with this.  Can’t figure it out. Maybe it’s his charm.   

Also I stewed some black plums and making fried chicken for Mal and me.

What’s on everyone’s stove? 

it rained hard yesterday and last night. Got out today with the kid that I am mentoring. the first place we hiked into was soaking wet. the humidity was hideous. hiked back to the van and drove toa different spot. by the time we had hiked through a quarter mile of wet brush my blue jeans were soaked to the thigh..  rolled up my pant legs and groveled up to the first bolt barefoot, clipped in and then put on my climbing shoes. the rest of the climb was nice and dry but as soon as we got above the lush  VT trees we noticed it was smoky as heck. I had just thought it was a foggy morning when we were down in the valley but up on the mountain above the trees on the cliff it was apparent that it was really fire smoke. By the end of the day we could really smell it.  Sunset with Isa and Bernie it was really stinky and so thick that the sun just disappeared a few  min after I took this shot and there was no real sunset. The Apocalypse...

Lori Milaswrote:

I don’t know how but I think Russ has had something to do with this. Can’t figure it out. Maybe it’s his charm.

All the worms are over here.  Was out of town for 4 days and they denuded a few of my pepper plants and were working the same magic on my tomatoes.  You can bet your sweet bippy (obscure 60’s pull just for you Lori) they paid the ultimate price when I got home.  Made Gitmo look like a happy ending at Disneyland.

Russ Wallingwrote:

All the worms are over here.  Was out of town for 4 days and they denuded a few of my pepper plants and were working the same magic on my tomatoes.  You can bet your sweet bippy (obscure 60’s pull just for you Lori) they paid the ultimate price when I got home.  Made Gitmo look like a happy ending at Disneyland.

So much rage!  Have you considered therapy?  

Whereas at my house there is only love and peace and the tomatoes have dimples and sweet smiles.  Except the guy next door.     I have since learned that we had the sniper team on the roofs across the street... maybe they could all have taken out their aggression on hornworms.  

My sunflower on the other hand, has 12 blooms, not the one bloom it was supposed to have.  Apparently, sunflowers do not grow where there is wind.  I think mine probably got nervous and just decided to throw out a dozen blooms to save itself. 

Lorie. All the big wall climbing was therapy.. I think he is missing that ;) 

I came to Joshua basin water district to pay my bill and discovered a demonstration garden for desert planting. On my street the thing is to clear cut your front yard so all there is is dirt and maybe a single plant or two. I have a neighbor who started a very hopeful landscape a few years ago with all kinds of cactus and native plants, individually planted, and I guess she lost control of the whole thing and now it’s zoo.

Brandt has a wonderful garden. I thought it was enough for right now that I just grow a tomato. The one highly recommended landscape company we have in town looks great but every time I talk to the guy he’s high—like seriously unable to communicate. Maybe one of those landscape classes would help.