Jim McCarthy is 90!

Today is Jim McCarthy's 90th birthday, a good moment to watch this video about him in the AAC's Legacy Series.  I think it is fair to say that Jim ushered in the modern era of climbing in the Gunks, and his list of accomplishments and firsts both locally and abroad, as well as the services to climbing and climbers he has provided over the years, is far too extensive for a little note here.  A true giant of American mountaineering. Happy birthday Jim!  

I recall Jim as a tough, no-bs NY attorney, who was influential in opening the AAC to a wider, less-affluent membership. In the late eighties, it was still a good-ol’-boys’ club with tight purse strings on the fat endowment. To join, you had to fork over ridiculous dues and submit a climbing résumé for approval. Jim wanted to change all that, which would actually end up bringing in more revenue. Today’s AAC reflects those changes.

One of the last times I saw Jim (9/93?), I was leading Directissima at the Gunks when we heard screaming: “Help! Jim got stung, and he doesn’t have his epi!” So I lowered to the first stance, and we rapped to the ground. As we reached the carriage road, wearing our climbing shoes, along zoomed a motorized cart with Jim sprawled in the back. His face was ghostly white, and he looked dead. At that point, the driver said that they didn’t need our help, so we went back up and finished. We were grateful to eventually hear that he survived! And did he!

Outstanding!  Well done, Jim!

I will always appreciate the encouragement Jim gave me to continue to explore bouldering back in the 1960s. 

I can only echo Rich, Jim is A true giant of American mountaineering. Happy birthday, Jim!

Happy Birthday Jim McCarthy!

Happy birthday Jim!
Lorna and I will raise a glass to you this evening.

We miss you being here in Wyoming.

Happy Birthday Jim!!!! From the start of my climbing career, with the Gunks as one of my ‘home crags’ Jim, was ‘The Man’. Over the years as I got to know him, my admiration only increased. As Rich says, Jim’s  contributions to climbing have been very widespread, varied, and long lasting. Best wishes for this great milestone.

That's awesome! Never seen that video before. I recognize some of those pictures from the old gray dick. In the video, they mentioned Jim working with THE CIA. I seem to recall there was a book about that. Anyone recall the title? 

Happy Birthday Jim!  No question that Jim's influence on the Gunks and international climbing spans the decades.  Jim--hope to visit with you soon in Ridgeway.  Roy

Congratulations, and Happy Birthday, Jim!

On my first visit to the Gunks in the early 1980s ,Kevin Bein introduced me to Jim and Fritz Wiessner . Happy Birthday Jim !

Happy Birthday Jim! Amazing climber and amazing person all around! 

Happy Birthday Jim McCarthy and thanks for all the great lines! I’m 53 and have a goal (now committed to writing) of leading all the McCarthy routes at the Gunks by the time I’m 60. Respect!

Pretty glad I get to climb with Andy Wiesner because I want nothing to do with leading a few of Mac's routes anymore at the ripe old age of 42.  Jim is a true gentleman, knows his status and never flaunts it.  He invited my girlfriend (wife now) and me to his place back in Jackson for a bottle of wine in like 2006ish, first thing he did was apologize for all the yuppies who lived around him now and that Dick Dumais wasn't around to say hi to a couple other Gunkies.  A longtime Gunks climbing ranger lives at his old place right below the cliff.  

1 word is all that needed:

RESPECT! 

Happy birthday, Jim!

so thankful for the Mac Wall.