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Drop your favorite 5.10 pitch in the state

Original Post
Jason Pirolo · · San Francisco · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 130

Have some extended time off in the Fall and want to get the psyche train all fueled up. 

Thus far in life, Mr. Natural in the valley has my vote for the glory.

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

The 5s pitch on mental block if you like wide 

Pitch 3 of the rostrum for hands

10a Last pitch of crying time again if you got scared on the opening pitches

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 302

Most memorable 5.10 pitch for me has always been the Oz dihedral (p3). Epic position, wind ripping. I fought for my life on it years ago. 

Rew Exo · · Mammoth Lakes / Bishop · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 199

One of These Days at Woodfords is great, but I'm only thinking of it because I did it recently.

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 195

Wall of the worlds should be my choice but Lunatic Fringe for it’s diversity. Sport is the 10 pitch on Electric Lundyland. And for silly fun Imaginary Voyage in J tree 

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 739

I’d say the window pitch on the RNWF, but someone already dropped it.

Also: Eavesdropping @ Rock Creek

Imaginary Voyage @ JT

P1-2 West Buttress of El Cap

Chris Herle · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 1,167

Schizophrenic Dike. Vertical dike with a finger crack running down the middle. Doesn’t get much better than that! 

Brian Monetti · · Geneva, CH · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 457

My experience in the state is pretty limited, but the first pitch of Outer Limits must be in the running. 

Will G · · San Francisco · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 35

Molar Concentration for fingers
Surrealistic Pillar Direct for hands
Hospital Corner for stemming
Moby Dick for fists
Ahab for offwidth
Candyland for face climbing

All great single pitch routes in season in the fall within four hours of SF!

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 461

I agree with all y'all. Couple more:

You could hit Reeds Direct, Lunatic Fringe, Stone Groove, and Five and Dime all in one fine morning. Five Ten Heaven !!

How about first pitch of the Freeblast / Salathe ? Just keep going for a few more ultra classic Ten'er pitches. Slabbbb. And that horrible "10b" move into the Half Dollar.

...

If we're talking statewide including SoCal...

Rubicon is my favorite 5.10 in Josh.

First pitch of The Vampire, aka the Bat Crack 5.10d+. A bat flew out in my face. No bites thankfully, that was close!

...

P.S. Nearly neglected the High Sierra, unacceptable! Maybe the corner pitch on Western Front, Mt Russell.

almostrad · · BLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 18

All the ones that I was gonna throw in have been named already, so for sake of diversity;

The pitch of mantels on heart of stone is a wild example of ground up vision questing. Pretty amazing passage at a reasonable grade. 

GizzardJones · · Pollock Pines, CA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 642

Moby dick. El cap base

Hospital corner- lovers leap/strawberry

Sacher cracker- el cap base

third pillar of dana- touloumne  meadows

Finger lock- sugarloaf, 

Jason Pirolo · · San Francisco · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 130

wow its been fun drooling all over these. My psyche cup runneth over

Jason Pirolo · · San Francisco · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 130
Chris Herlewrote:

Schizophrenic Dike. Vertical dike with a finger crack running down the middle. Doesn’t get much better than that! 

yeeesh. 

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 87

1st pitch of Freeblast is pretty high up on the list of amazing 10's for me.

X C · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 72

Figures on a Landscape. Joshua Tree. Super fun and a cool position. 

Norm Larson · · Wilson, Wy. · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 85

Sheila is pretty darn good

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

List so far is entirely granite (plus JTree monzonite, if you want to quibble). Which makes sense - granite cracks are where CA really stands out in the 5.10 grade. But variety is nice too, so here's a sub-topic to consider: 

What are the best non-granite 5.10 pitches in CA?

To give some recognition to the great basalt, tuff, sandstone, and even limestone climbing that can also be found in CA.

almostrad · · BLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 18
JCMwrote:

List so far is entirely granite (plus JTree monzonite, if you want to quibble). Which makes sense - granite cracks are where CA really stands out in the 5.10 grade. But variety is nice too, so here's a sub-topic to consider: 

What are the best non-granite 5.10 pitches in CA?

To give some recognition to the great basalt, tuff, sandstone, and even limestone climbing that can also be found in CA.

I can’t think of a single non granite pitch that I’d give 5 stars haha.
some of our coveted mud has some good pitches, but I’ve found the quality in the 11+ and up range.
min sure there’s some good nor cal limestone 10’s? Haven’t gotten to sample much though 

Natalie Blackburn · · Oakland, CA · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 210
JCMwrote:

List so far is entirely granite (plus JTree monzonite, if you want to quibble). Which makes sense - granite cracks are where CA really stands out in the 5.10 grade. But variety is nice too, so here's a sub-topic to consider: 

What are the best non-granite 5.10 pitches in CA?

To give some recognition to the great basalt, tuff, sandstone, and even limestone climbing that can also be found in CA.

AC Devil Dog at Table Mountain probably has some pull in the non-granite catagory.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Surprised that Serenity Crack hasn’t been mentioned yet. 

Which pitch though? (OP implies naming a pitch, rather than a full route).

I felt like Serenity Crack was awesome for the sum total of all its pitches, but no single pitch was all-time-greatest on its own.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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