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Stainless perma-draws

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30

This other style of US stainless biner has a very civilized gate action. Suitable for perma or anchor. Measures 9.9mm for the rope edge.

Drew Nevius · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,699

I don’t see it in their catalog or on their website, but Lappas Climbing posted that they make a 316 SS Permadraw


https://www.instagram.com/reel/Csu_mNHpee5/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

bmdhacks · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,806
Drew Neviuswrote:

I don’t see it in their catalog or on their website, but Lappas Climbing posted that they make a 316 SS Permadraw


https://www.instagram.com/reel/Csu_mNHpee5/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Thanks for the tip! I emailed them and they said they're still in development but would be available in August 2023. I'll report back if I can get my hands on them.

Jim Day · · Fort Worth, TX · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 3,149
Luke Stefurakwrote:

https://mtnoutlet.com/catalog/product/view/id/101/s/cypher-stainless-steel-gym-wire-gate-quickdraw/category/6/

Not sure if these come with the pin, but I used to order the standalone biner (with pin) from mtnoutlet. 

Thanks for sharing, I ordered 7 of these and they do come with the pin.  The captive area is large enough for 3/8 chain but I'm going with 5/16".  I'll be reusing the webbing for spare quickdraws, but unfortunately the quicklink it comes with is plated steel, so using them would defeat the purpose of a stainless carabiner:

Shawn S · · Seattle WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 2,338
timothy fisherwrote:

This other style of US stainless biner has a very civilized gate action. Suitable for perma or anchor. Measures 9.9mm for the rope edge.

I was considering getting some of these but could not find any MBS info. When you ordered them did they come with any data sheets or markings?

bmdhacks · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,806

I like those us stainless carabiners but the welded retention pin means you have burn another quicklink to attach it to chain which adds 5 bucks to the cost.

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30
Shawn Swrote:

I was considering getting some of these but could not find any MBS info. When you ordered them did they come with any data sheets or markings?

I couldnt find the spec sheet so I reached out to US stainless. They replied right away. The breaking load limit for the 10mm is 6270 lb force. I will post the spec sheet next week.

Rob P · · Duluth, MN · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 645

Has anyone used this style of captive carabiner from US Stainless? Just looking for some feedback about gate action, reliability, etc...

https://usstainless.com/hardware/spring-hooks/stainless-steel-316-spring-hook-carabiner-3-8-10mm-marine-grade-safety-clip/

I would mostly be looking to use these for anchor lower offs, not permadraws so gate clipping action isn't quite as important. Just looking for a decent affordable captive option.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
Rob Pwrote:

Has anyone used this style of captive carabiner from US Stainless? Just looking for some feedback about gate action, reliability, etc...

https://usstainless.com/hardware/spring-hooks/stainless-steel-316-spring-hook-carabiner-3-8-10mm-marine-grade-safety-clip/

I would mostly be looking to use these for anchor lower offs, not permadraws so gate clipping action isn't quite as important. Just looking for a decent affordable captive option.

Why these instead of mussies? I do slightly prefer steel carabiners over mussies, but they usually end up being a fair bit more expensive, thus steering me back to mussies. 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

I use the 3/8 US Stainless carabiners in place of Mussys, mainly because Mussys aren’t available a lot of the time.  $6.35 

Almost 5000 lb breaking strength.  

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30

I am sure this will get some tongues wagging. After thin cut the pin was bendable with visegrips. You would not be able to booty the biner without tools once bent back. 8mm chain from Team Tough.

bmdhacks · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,806

At that point you might just tack it down with a stick welder and some 1/16" E308L stick.
Or just some jbweld steel stick epoxy?

Which leads me to thinking about jbwelding some stainless rod onto one of the Kong stainless carabiners that don't have a retention pin.

Shawn S · · Seattle WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 2,338

Might need to try this, thanks for the recommendations Timothy and Bdmhacks!

Luke Stefurak · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,785
timothy fisherwrote:

I am sure this will get some tongues wagging. After thin cut the pin was bendable with visegrips. You would not be able to booty the biner without tools once bent back. 8mm chain from Team Tough.

IMO the main concern with cutting the pin is that rope can run on the sharp piece of metal. I agree that you should epoxy or do something else to protect the rope.

I wouldn't worry about that setup on an anchor, but perms get pulled funny directions.

bmdhacks · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,806

Just a quick update, I ordered a few of the Kong stainless carabiners only to find the gate pin is not stainless.

Also, I sent another email to Lappas asking for updates so we'll see where that gets me.

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30

It was very easy to remove the burrs with file/sandpaper after the cut on the US Stainless units. Epoxy or welding  might be extra nice but maybe unnecessary? Beefy gates that are still only slighty stiffer than regular wire gate. Plus there is zero concern with the gate sticking open.

bmdhacks · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,806

Got some Lappas stainless permas delivered today. The dogbone alone was 10 euros. This is paired with a nice stainless long quicklink and an AustriAlpine micro stainless carabiner. With tax/shipping this all came out a bit pricey but I'd probably order just the dogbones if needed more. 

Shawn S · · Seattle WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 2,338
Matt King · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 537
timothy fisherwrote:

This other style of US stainless biner has a very civilized gate action. Suitable for perma or anchor. Measures 9.9mm for the rope edge.

MBS rating on it?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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