Climbs in LCC affected by the winter

On another thread, someone observed how many climbs in LCC have been adversely affected by this mega winter. May I suggest we start a thread here and list climbs and pitches of climbs that are in rough shape so the heads-up beta is in one place. It may also make it easier for people who want to go in and clean things up to have a sense of what needs doing.

So far, S-Direct, the approach to the Thumb, and the base of Crescent Crack were mentioned.

Thanks for starting this.

It looked like it was The Great Chockstone that fell, not sure if it affected The Missing Link or not.   The Fin descent is a mess, but mostly just logs and branches

Routes that are or could be affected by the rock fall in the Crescent Crack Area:

Page 119-120, routes 23-33 in the Granite Guide

• Multiplicity - 5.10c
• The Ross Connection - 5.10c R/X
• Who's on First -  5.10d
• Fair weather Var. - 5.10d
• Rainy Day Blues - 5.11 A0
• Get the Hearse 5.10a R/X
• The Great Chockstone - 5.7
• Missing Link - 5.10R

Some of these routes now start at the second bolt.  The SLCA decided to not re-bolt the routes near multiplicity due to rock fall danger for the crew and future climbers.  PLEASE take caution when walking though this rock fall path if heading west to Mexican Crack area.  

Forest Service Sign 

The rock fall

Broken bolt near Multiplicity 

It doesn't get climbed often, but the first pin on Pitch 2 of S-Matrix pulled out with my fingers today. The flake it was in could be ripped off by an infant. It's now a 35 foot runout from the last bolt to the 2nd pin. The 2nd pin wiggles back and forth when tugged with a draw, but there are OK cam placements next to it.

There's also numerous flakes and blocks on the 3rd pitch that are loose, but maybe it's always been that way.

I'd be very cautious of flakes and pins on all routes for a while.

A bolt should be added where the first pin was, since the flake is going to peel. 

It would also be a great opportunity to add a variation to S-Matrix P2, cutting right after the last bolt and climbing the 50 foot panel of clean green patina with a few bolts. It would make for one of the best 5.10 slab pitches in the canyon.

The trees on the 2nd pitch of the Indecent Exposure variation off the Standard Thumb have all been damaged and you can no longer sling them for pro.

Alex Zuccawrote:

It doesn't get climbed often, but the first pin on Pitch 2 of S-Matrix pulled out with my fingers today. 

S-Martix has always been a spicy climb especially when it joins the Robin's Route. I pulled several of the pins out, well more like they fell out. I gave them back to Ted Wilson who placed them (or Royal Robins). He put them back on his pin rack. Which has now been donated to the Utah Historical Society as there will be a museum with a climbing  exhibit.

How messed up is the approach / descent for the standard thumb? Sort of a more technical scramble kind of thing than it used to be or is it now impassible/dangerous? Hoping to hop on it Tuesday. 

Tyler Mwrote:

How messed up is the approach / descent for the standard thumb? Sort of a more technical scramble kind of thing than it used to be or is it now impassible/dangerous? Hoping to hop on it Tuesday. 

Approach is the same. The base is buried under 10 feet of sand, rock, and broken trees.

I climbed Betty's Altered Elbow at Altered States Gully yesterday. When rapping p1 to the ground we encountered a flake that peeled off and was just resting on an edge; it was in the open book, not on the route itself. A few chunks approximately 2'x1'x3". We tossed them down but there's likely more choss along the route Cheap Thrills AKA Inquisition that goes up the dihedral. I don't think it changed the nature of the route at all, but it would definitely fuck up your belayer and rope if you dislodged anything.