Strongest Boulderers Over 40

Its interesting trying to get better as you age. I'm 41 still trying to get into the double digits, done two V9s in the last two years. I also didn't start climbing until I was in my 30s, so finger strength has been a real bitch to improve. I've been active my whole life with weights, boxing, etc. so I'm no stranger to training but the recovery time gets longer and longer every year. I just got new arthritis medication though and feel an improvement in general aches and pains so hopefully that will help. I've found now that on days I feel good I need to go as hard as possible and suffer through the others. I find myself taking A LOT more two-days-off from training than when I was 35. That said, I still feel pretty good generally speaking and the ever-looming weight gain/metabolism slow down hasn't hit me fully yet. I'm willing to bet there is more crusher old sport climbers than boulderers. As the knees and hips wear out the appeal of falling over and over again wains. 

Late addition but my buddy Greg in Estes has put down dozens of v10s in the last few years and he's in his early to mid fifties

Drew Worthleywrote:

Late addition but my buddy Greg in Estes has put down dozens of v10s in the last few years and he's in his early to mid fifties

This is awesome and thank you for adding this to the thread!  Always motivational hearing these things for sure.  Hoping to hear more of this stuff and some of the tips/secrets to achieve or climb at this type of grade level.  

I found this thread looking up Akira Waku, really amazing what he has done. Super inspirational. Then seeing legends posting about what they’ve done is super cool as well.  

I started bouldering at 28, started taking it seriously around 32, climbed two v10’s that were later downgraded at 36, climbed my first v10 that wasn’t later downgraded at 41 (which was a v10/v11), and climbed my third of the grade just recently at 42.

I have a decent amount of friends that are over 40 and still crushing but it’s cool to see people that have done their first of a grade after that age.

Sean O'Brienwrote:

I found this thread looking up Akira Waku, really amazing what he has done. Super inspirational. Then seeing legends posting about what they’ve done is super cool as well.  

I started bouldering at 28, started taking it seriously around 32, climbed two v10’s that were later downgraded at 36, climbed my first v10 that wasn’t later downgraded at 41 (which was a v10/v11), and climbed my third of the grade just recently at 42.

I have a decent amount of friends that are over 40 and still crushing but it’s cool to see people that have done their first of a grade after that age.

Share your secrets…I’m only getting fatter

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

Share your secrets…I’m only getting fatter

Definitely don’t have any secrets. I think the big things are climbing regularly, working on weaknesses, avoiding injuries, and projecting a lot. Metabolism does slow down and I find it takes me longer to recover from a tough session than it used to.  Just have to work around those things as best you can.

Interesting & inspiring post. With decades of climbing and bouldering babbling along on this winding course of mine,.. plus a love of esoteric reflection,.. I anticipate that as the younger set of climbers and boulderers advance towards older ages of being, and if their interest and general health persists,.. that people will be crushing solid double digits well into their 60s and 70s,.. possibly into their 80s and 90s ( though they might be outliers ). From experience, a couple of years past,.. at 61 years of age,. I wrestled up Red Letter Day V10 a couple of times in LCC,.. kinda hoping to get back to do the low start to the problem this Autumn. Bouldering is great fun,.. and if a number of variables align,.. a lengthy game may be had on the short stones… Happy trails !!

I’m not sure if someone already said this, but I think more individuals climbing hard in their 40’s and beyond tend to gravitate towards sport climbing to reduced injury such as taking falls bouldering. That being said- I think everyone above shared every head climbing hard boulders 40+, but there may be some sleepers out there...

I’m not sure if someone already said this, but I think more individuals climbing hard in their 40’s and beyond tend to gravitate towards sport climbing to reduced injury such as taking falls bouldering. That being said- I think everyone above shared every head climbing hard boulders 40+, but there may be some sleepers out there...

I was climbing as hard in my early to mid 40s as I was in my twenties. Then COVID and kids came along. I just don’t have the time to commit to climbing, at least until one or more of my kids gets into it.

I also popped a tendon last year (at 46) that has me now paranoid every time I crimp on something. 

Mike Dwrote:

I was climbing as hard in my early to mid 40s as I was in my twenties. Then COVID and kids came along. I just don’t have the time to commit to climbing, at least until one or more of my kids gets into it.

I also popped a tendon last year (at 46) that has me now paranoid every time I crimp on something. 

You were climbing V13/14 twenty-twenty five years ago? 

you're old.

Martin Keller

Dai Koyamada