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More alps (chamonix, matterhorn) questions
Alex Buisse wrote: Much appreciated! I'm planning an early June arrival so it sounds like even if the weather turns south for Alpine there are plenty of prospects for multi pitch cragging in the valley. this is good news. Any suggestions on a better way than Airbnb to find a long term rental would be appreciated if anyone has ideas. |
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For multi-pitch cragging, I’d strongly recommend Barberine, a few meters over the Swiss border after Vallorcine, and Mont Berard on the way to Buet. Cheserys also has some decent stuff, but not nearly as good. A few pearls here and there in random spots of the valley too, but harder to find. For accommodation, worth looking at facebook groups and leboncoin (aka French craigslist) as well as airbnb. If your dates overlap with the Marathon du Mont Blanc, expect to pay very inflated prices (not as bad as UTMB but getting there). |
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Hey Folks, Reviving this thread a bit, is it common to carry pickets around the glaciers in Switzerland? |
Jake S wrote: No |
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Bivy options for the Hörnli exist at the bottom of the steel staircase along the trail, about 900 feet below the Hörnli Hut. Just off the trail, tucked under some overhangs at the base of the cliff. There's also another option slightly higher, along the ridge at a flat spot in this draw type of feature, but it's less conspicuous and pretty exposed. Switzerland's plethora of "rules" (when it comes to mountain things) are mainly spoken and not official in any real capacity. The culture of Switzerland is very orderly and rule followy but also very non-confrontational; if somebody sees you breaking the "rules" you may get some side-eye or a snide comment, but nobody will do anything about it. I say this as a dual Swiss/US citizen who has had my fair share of experience bridging the gap between the dirtbag American and prim and proper Swiss cultures. |
Ellen S wrote: If I were you I'd reconsider climbing/glorified hiking that slog for the following reasons: 1, Rock fall (mainly from people being ahead of you which is common due to the sheer amount of traffic that ridge sees. 2. Hard to follow the track and easy to enter the no man's land that the East face is since the ridge crosses it over at times. So more time wasted if you get lost as you'll need to backtrack. 3. That hut is nasty and crazy expensive 4. You'll put up with rude Swiss mountain guides if you go solo/or with others but unguided. Head over to Italy and enjoy the Lion ridge. Nicer crowd, Italian mountain guides are polite, heaps better rock and cleaner too plus a relatively easy to follow ridge. It's only a tad more difficult than the Hornli one but if you are a climber no issues as climbing is easy. There are other factors to take into account, mainly weather and exposure if you aren't used to it but this last part can be easily fixed by preparing the climb in advance. Good luck and have fun! ;) |
Jake S wrote: You would provide entertainment to the local guides, though :) |
Alex Buisse wrote: most def! btw this was discuss extensively in my thread here: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118741962/the-great-snow-pickets-mystery |
giraud b wrote: Would love to climb the lion ridge, if anyone's reading this and wants to do it, PM me :) btw, the alternative to staying in Hornli hut would be staying in Zermatt, which I'm sure is not any cheaper... |
Ellen S wrote: You could stay in Tasch and hop on the train to Zermatt. You'll have to ride it anyhow to get to Zermatt (unless you hike in). Could also ride a ski lift to get to the normal trailhead for the Hornli. I don't think they run prior to 8 or 9 in the morning. Does save some juice and most people ride the lift (hiking from Zermatt would be a grind). Get a bunk bed for 150chf. Make an easy day approaching it. Stay hydrated. Scout the start of the route in the daylight the afternoon prior (the crux in my opinion). Get up and go go go. Best to be acclimated prior to your attempt. You don't want to get whacked by the altitude on your big day. |
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This may be a stupid question, and if so please have some patience with me. With the current snowpack being what it is, could anybody tell me what the expected conditions would be for Sept-Oct of this year? I'll be getting off of a job around early September and was hoping to head straight there and with any luck do some mellow alpine in the late-late season. I've seen on UKC that some folks have managed in October, staying in the Abri Simond and climbing the Lachenal traverse, the Contamine Mazeaud and the Cosmiques. Would something like that be possible in the coming season or should I change plans and set my sights elsewhere? |
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By mid August last year it was dry, damn dry, real dry. I would expect it to be similar if not drier as it is predicted to be even hotter. |
Brian in SLC wrote: Are you suggesting I don't sleep the night before, just get off the latest afternoon train to Zermatt and immediately start climbing? Since I would not have a place to stay or bivy. Personally I've done those kind of itineraries before, but I've never met a partner willing to completely forgo sleeping before a climb. speaking of which, how soloable is Hornli? 5.4 is my onsight solo limit for dry rock in rock shoes and bare hands. In contrast, i've actually fallen off 5.4 due to wearing mountain boots and gloves. I understand the 5.4 section is short on Hornli. Does it have fixed ropes? Are you climbing in climbing shoes or mountain boots? Is it generally warm enough in summer at night to go bare-handed? 1. Lift + Hut, ~$330 for 2 night min, 4500' gain on summit day 2. No lift, no hut, hike from zermatt, 8500' gain summit day |
Ellen S wrote: No, not suggesting you start late in the day. If you rode the tram to the trailhead, its only a two hour hike to the hut. You'd have to be fast and fit, and, very good at onsighting a lot of alpine terrain to pull off an ascent and descent before dark. In late June, you'd have the advantage of long daylight but you'd also need to have good weather and good conditions. Plenty of folks solo the Hornli but at your stated level, I wouldn't suggest it for you. I passed the body of a soloist on the route who'd fallen the day prior, so, pretty sobering. There's only fixed rope on the final bit to the summit ridge. The technical crux isn't fixed with ropes. You'd be climbing in whatever the conditions required based on your experience level. Also, bare handed or not would depend on your cold tolerance and experience. Most folks only spend one night in the hut. Up early, down early. Conditions in early March this year:  |
Brian in SLC wrote: Good to know thanks. sounds like matterhorn is only doable with a partner for me.. really don't want to spend so much time money and effort just to get to the base of some wall that I could climb if not for the lack of a partner. By late start I meant something like arrive in zermatt in the evening, hang out for a while, slowly start the hike up, and be passing the hornli hut at 2am or whatever the appropriate start time is the following day, and descend before dark. the whole climb would be happening the day after i arrive in zermatt. but still that's 8500' gain in a day which is beyond my 7k' limit, so it's all hypothetical anyways. Hornli hut used to have a 2 night minimum booking policy buts seems they got rid of it. To make up for it, it's now the equivalent of $288 for 1 night |
Stu May wrote: September would actually be my choice of climbing window, as things get a good start again once the first couple of snow dumps are in. Just make sure you don't go up if said snow hasn't fallen. And please don't stay at Abri Simond, it's not designed for it and the conditions are overcrowded and squalid. If you have the money to come to Cham and get the cablecar up, stay at the Cosmiques hut, which is lovely, has great food and will get you a good night's rest. All your objectives are very very reasonable, basically the most moderate in the area. No saying what they will look like in September, but if anything is doable in the range, those will be on the list. |
Alex Buisse wrote: That’s great news! What aspects are in that time of year (mostly looking for rock, so I imagine Southfacing)? Would the SW face of Dent du Geant be feasible? I’d like to build a roster of 3 or 4 peaks as well as 5 or 7 lower routes to keep in mind while planning, in case conditions dictate a pivot. I reckon all Mont Blanc routes are completely out by that time? I understand this would have a lot to do with conditions coming out of late summer, but how much snow is required typically for things to start filling in and consolidating for the autumn season? Could you still enroll in a glacier travel class around that time or are most guiding schools pretty much shut up by then? |
Stu May wrote: I will just comment on this question. |
Stu May wrote: It varies a lot, but most snow routes, including Mont Blanc normal routes, usually come back in sometime in early to mid-September. Early October at the latest, if it's a super dry Indian Summer. Dent du Géant normal route would probably be doable, but the approach (the gencive) is super sketchy with rockfall, doubly so with inexperienced parties above you, so it's one I would wait for a good snowpack to consider climbing. Rock routes will probably still mostly be in, though bergshrunds might still be an issue and you might find snow on ledges. Stuff like the Rébuffat on Cosmiques spur and on S Face of Aiguille du Midi, as well as Contamine on Lachenal would likely be very doable. Aiguilles Rouges also should still be well in, perhaps at the costs of Brévent/Flégère not running. This time of year, you are fighting the shorter days and limited lift opening hours, though. Also glaciers might look like they have filled in but snow bridges will still be fragile, so extra caution should be exercised. I would strongly consider contacting OHM before making any route decision, as it is their literal job to give you the latest information on conditions, as well as suggest alternatives in case your pick doesn't look good. |
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can anyone recommend a good climber-friendly hostal / affordable accomodations in town for a middle-age climber ie no partying, relatively clean, etc? it looks like I may have out this off too long as the Chamonix Lodge is already booked. Much appreciated. |
