The BEST multi-pitch rappel anchor?

On a backcountry muti-pitch route where there isn't a walk off option which anchor setup do you prefer and WHY? I borrowed these photos from another feed (hope folks don't mind) and labeled them A to D based on which is less like to twist my rope. Please ignore the fact that photo C has glue ins and the others wedge bolts and treat the bolts themselves as being equally strong.

Visually I'd prefer D, but I'd probably be more happy to encounter either A or B on a route. What do you all think?

I think A is the most convenient. Clip a sling/PAS into anywhere and you are connected to both bolts, boom. I'd slightly prefer C over D since you have more space for carabiners. It's also a lot easier to replace worn rap rings in A, B, or C.

Rams horns aren't too common but they can be pretty bougie since you don't have to thread the rope for your next rappel.

A B C D in that order 

Hard not easy rope twist at 28:47

It's my understanding that C and D will cause more rope twisting. I love A when I come across it.

I love A. Easy breezy 

I love being able to get down without leaving gear so a,b,c,d all good. 

Mike Hoskinswrote:

On a backcountry muti-pitch route where there isn't a walk off option which anchor setup do you prefer and WHY? I borrowed these photos from another feed (hope folks don't mind) and labeled them A to D based on which is less like to twist my rope. Please ignore the fact that photo C has glue ins and the others wedge bolts and treat the bolts themselves as being equally strong.

Visually I'd prefer D, but I'd probably be more happy to encounter either A or B on a route. What do you all think?

Why pick a fav? They’re all good.

B for redundancy and min rope twist

D if I'm paying for it

Another vote for B. Given that the longer side should end in a ring just like the short side. Short side can be a single ring hanger. 

A second place.

C can be ok if the lengths are longer and or bolts slightly closer together. 

C and D both will make for hard pulls (and twists) if there are bulges or slab on long raps.

For a dedicated rappel anchor, I don't think it really matters.  For an anchor I'm belaying off of as well as using as a rap anchor, I like A or B.  One add that's really nice is fixed carabiners on multipitch rappel anchors. (or rams horns as mentioned above) It makes transferring through the anchor way more fluid when doing successive raps.

Max Tepferwrote:

One add that's really nice is fixed carabiners on multipitch rappel anchors. (or rams horns as mentioned above) It makes transferring through the anchor way more fluid when doing successive raps.

I used to think that but have changed my mind, specifically if there’s any chance you'll be sharing the anchor with another party. Some people won't clip into the non lockers, or I’ve seen people cloved into the leavers. These issues were more problem than threading a rope through rings. #redrockproblems

My preference is in the order they are listed.  Unless there are issues with visibility I'd avoid D though. That setup is sorta a hassle if you are at a weird stance and there are more than two people at the anchor.

This is a prebuilt variation of A from Raumer that I've used.

A is the best.  B is good, but because of the orientation of the rings, the pull might be harder, especially if the party rigs so that the outer strand is pulled and pinches the inner strand against the rock. B might look more redundant than A but it isn't really, and it doesn't distribute the load either.  C and D have rings at the same level, and that will twist the rope when it is pulled. C gives the party places to clip tethers that are separate from the threads for the rappel rope, D forces the rings to be used for everything which is less desirable.

First choice, A.

Second place, B or C.

B would twist the rope because the last chain link is 90 degrees oriented wrong.  It should be one link shorter or longer for better orientation. Then adjusted for height for all you equalization folks (lol).

My preference would be A or C with diagonally offset bolts instead of horizontal spacing.

D works fine but again, offset bolts would twist less and be easier to pull. As mentioned the only good way to clip this anchor is via the rings as the bolt hangers can be awkward to use. This anchor is the least convenient for high traffic routes because a rappel rope won’t feed / pull well when someone’s else’s anchor carabiners are in the rings. 

C

C I suppose. I like all of em.

Mikey Schaeferwrote:

My preference is in the order they are listed.  Unless there are issues with visibility I'd avoid D though. That setup is sorta a hassle if you are at a weird stance and there are more than two people at the anchor.

This is a prebuilt variation of A from Raumer that I've used.

I think A should be the preference given the ease or replacing the wear point. 

Jeremy Baumanwrote:

I think A should be the preference given the ease or replacing the wear point. 

I'd generally agree though it also depends on the details of the climb.  If the climb is gonna see at least low to moderate traffic then replicability is fairly important.  It the climb is rarely gonna see traffic (happens to be the case on some of the routes I put up) then cost, weight, and ease of install might take precedence.  If the climb might not ever see a repeat and is deep in the backcountry then replacing the chain with a shoulder length sling and ditching the ring might even make the most sense.  Lots of details to consider when choosing the "best" option.

Mikey Schaeferwrote:

I'd generally agree though it also depends on the details of the climb.  If the climb is gonna see at least low to moderate traffic then replicability is fairly important.  It the climb is rarely gonna see traffic (happens to be the case on some of the routes I put up) then cost, weight, and ease of install might take precedence.  If the climb might not ever see a repeat and is deep in the backcountry then replacing the chain with a shoulder length sling and ditching the ring might even make the most sense.  Lots of details to consider when choosing the "best" option.

The one I like that isn't pictured, particularly for low-traffic routes is this one except with a quick link instead of a fixed link for the top bolt. Best of save-weight, money, etc, and still easily replaceable. My point is simply that we should make wear points easily replaceable when possible particularly when the cost of doing so is nill. 

Have anybody ever seen a worn steel rappel anchor? I certainly haven't.