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Most downgraded and upgraded routes.
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I want to know about routes that have been downgraded significantly. I also want to know about routes that have been upgraded significantly such as a 5.9+ that is now 11d or something like that. If you have a little history on the route and the grade adjustments let us hear about it. I am sure this topic has been discussed before, but I could not find it. Thanks everyone. I am stoked to hear some replies. |
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I think the Umph slot in boulder canyon used to get 5.8+ and is now considered solid 10d/11a |
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The biggest downgrade I know of is when Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall downgraded one of the pitches of the Kill Artist from 5.13 to 5.11- |
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There's an article in an AAJ I have that downgrades a big sketchy multipitch from 13+ to 12- or so. I guess that's not as bad as the wide Boyz case but I think they qualified theirs? Something about body size or something I don't remember |
Aaron Kolbwrote: This sounded so cartoonish that I almost didn’t believe it until I looked it up lol. For those that didn’t know, they used some hand jams instead of inverting, and also onsighted the pitch AFTER the bolts used in the first ascent were chopped. |
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Infinite at City of Rocks in Idaho has gone from 5.9+ to 5.11+ R/X. The FA was Greg Lowe in '67. That's at least a 6 letter grade upgrade. |
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The Power of Lard on Snowpatch was called .13c by the German climbers (some pretty accomplished!) who put it up in 1997. Granite crack climbers had downgraded it by 4 or 5 letter grades (.12b?) before it fell off the mountain this winter. |
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Separate Reality in YPS doesn’t see big swings, but goes from consensus 11+ to 12- about once a year it seems. |
High Plains Drifterwrote: I think another Greg Lowe/ Jeff Lowe classic from that era, Macabre Wall in Ogden, has jumped from .9 or .10 to .12 over the years. Those guys were way ahead of their time on rock and ice. |
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Duet Direct on Cannon went from 5.7 to 10b in subsequent guidebooks. |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: True, but that was, at least to some extent, the result of a broken hold/flake. |
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Everything in my gym is incredibly off rating... There was a 10 that just felt like a 14, and every 9 just feels like a 12. |
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In hard bouldering, No Kpote Only was downgraded from V17 to V15 |
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Another offwidth just got downgraded from like 13b to 11b. The newer one in Vedauwoo. I’m trying to find the post but I’m not finding it. |
Samuel Puckettwrote: The Umph Slot immediately came to mind when I saw this thread. Brutal. Bryan, Forever War? |
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The Tom Egan Memorial Route got downgraded from 5.14 to now being considered a 3rd class scramble. |
blakeherringtonwrote: It's actually more extreme than this belies: the "5.13" pitch was more like an 11+ splitter, making the crux (overall route grade) the 12b/c bolted boulder problem pitch lower down. RIP |
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Alan. thats a pretty sustained corner I don't see how one hold turns the whole thing into 5.7.. heck I think its sandbagged at 10 b ;) |
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Nick, my memory, could be wrong—I’m old, is that the Direct was originally 5.9, maybe even the dreaded 9+, the 7 was Duet original route, then a flake near the top of the corner came off, upping the grade. The only time that I did the route, the flake was still there—definitely harder than 7. |
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The infamous James Pearson E12 to E9 of Walk of Life. Really tarnished Pearson's climbing career. Too bad, he seems like a really solid guy who can climb really really hard. He doesn't even grade his cutting edge trad climbs anymore, which is a pity, as he's at the top of his game. |
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Alan. I am not old enough to attest to this but I have read several of you guys recollections that the first guide to come out had Duet Direct as a 5.7??? |
