New and Experienced climbers over 50 ##24

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Holds are what makes climbing fun.  that is why Red Rocks and COR are so much fun. 

I must’ve been raised wrong.    Give me a tall, almost vertical rock with not a single hold in sight and I am in heaven. When I met up with the group on Sunday we were in an area called Playhouse, which has pretty vertical routes with a lot of long cracks. It’s really supposed to be for crack climbing. So I did my best on a 5.8 crack and didn’t love it but it is what it is. But the sheer slab to the left caught my eye (which wasn’t a route) and I couldn’t resist wondering if there was any way to climb up that slab, so I lowered down and gave it a go.  In the 20 feet or so I climbed there were a couple of thin edges and that was it. I was just so intrigued because I knew there was a way—I just needed more time. I realized once again—put me on a nearly vertical wall with only my tippy toes touching the rock  and full body slammed right up against it and I’m all in. I wish I had more strength and more time and more talent. 

The stories by Kris and Jan, Guy, and I imagine Darrell Hensell if he would hold forth are so great… I guess it’s the next best thing to having been there.  

I’m so glad Brandt, Barbara, Phyl and John and Jean got out together yesterday.  I’ve never been to New Jack City before. Maybe next time I can tag along.    

Not even a word about Wordle? I am stuck on the third line. Is this a word in the English language?

I am without a car today as when I tried to start it two days ago every light and warning on the dash lit up, including the notification that the hybrid system had completely shut down. Being a Lexus, I thought it should go to the Lexus dealership in Palm Springs but Tony sees no reason to spend the money so it’s at a local shop. The local shop called to tell us it’s all fixed and they never found any problem. So it’s not all fixed since it happened three days in a row. What I think is the damn mice have gotten under the hood again and chewed up the wiring. It happened twice before. 

Lori Milas wrote:

Not even a word about Wordle? I am stuck on the third line. Is this a word in the English language?

I am without a car today as when I tried to start it two days ago every light and warning on the dash lit up, including the notification that the hybrid system had completely shut down. Being a Lexus, I thought it should go to the Lexus dealership in Palm Springs but Tony sees no reason to spend the money so it’s at a local shop. The local shop called to tell us it’s all fixed and they never found any problem. So it’s not all fixed since it happened three days in a row. What I think is the damn mice have gotten under the hood again and chewed up the wiring. It happened twice before. 

Got it in 5. It's one that you may not think is a word, but I'm pretty sure you know it.
Is a lexus more vulnerable to mice than a chevy pickup?

wendy weiss wrote:

Got it in 5. It's one that you may not think is a word, but I'm pretty sure you know it.
Is a lexus more vulnerable to mice than a chevy pickup?

Hi Wendy! I got it in five and I was really pissed off at myself Mostly because I was looking for a more ordinary word.

I think all the cars around here are vulnerable to mice. And there’s some pretty good remedies if you remember to use them. The one that works best for me is just to periodically spray the whole engine top with peppermint spray. I did not do that this year and I saw a little tiny foot prints under the hood so clearly they’re back.  The problem is with a Chevy pick up or I would imagine older cars is they don’t have all the fancy hybrid system so it would probably be easier to diagnose. I’m having to learn a lot about finances and spending in this new retirement life where I am not earning any money. But if I take it to the dealership, I will have a free loaner within minutes, they will diagnose and fix the problem, and they will return my car to me with a full inside and outside cleaning. So that’s worth something. Also , I likely will not be sitting on the side of the freeway somewhere because they screwed it up. On the other hand, the shop down the street will be charging $1000 less. 

Actually. There is something I read about Lexus wiring being coated with some kind of soy that mice like so it is one of those makes that is more vulnerable then others.

Lori- I feel bad for you, the broken Lexus, but your tale is pretty common today. All the new “fancy cars” today are too complicated for the average shop to work on, much less fix. Your shop down the street should be able to tell if you have chewed through wires after about 5 minutes on the rack. Lexus wire looms are serious money- I know of one LS400 that was totaled because the front tire blew and took out the plastic inner fender then a chunk of the wire loom that’s hidden underneath it. That’s a $20,000 total!!!!! I hope you get yours fixed ok.

I’m very happy to hear that you went out with “regular climbers”. One of your stated goals, way way back at the beginning, was to know what that was like. I trust that you had fun. If you are contemplating going to NJC, yes that’s good, do it. One of the best things about climbing, IMHO, is the variety and richness of the stone we climb on. Learning new techniques so you can get up something is very eye opening. For example. What do you do when all the good edges are facing the wrong way??? (Down) We all have our favorites. Right now you say you like hold less slab, certainly the predominant stone in JT. But how can you say that? You have never, as far as I know, climbed steep knobs or, my favorite, slightly overhanging big edges. The east coasters get to climb on steep stone with big defined holds and shapes- the primary tool is strength and endurance. The only reason I say this to you is because I feel like you have  trapped yourself into thinking that Joshua Tree is the best climbing ever. Personally I think if you went to the Gunk’s and climbed “Three Pines” on a cool autumn day, with the countryside painted in fluorescent gold and orange below, you would be so stoked your head would explode- mine sure did!
So bottom line- go to NJC have fun! Discover new tricks, new things, but above all have a blast! 

Guy Keesee wrote:

Lori- I feel bad for you, the broken Lexus, but your tale is pretty common today. All the new “fancy cars” today are too complicated for the average shop to work on, much less fix. Your shop down the street should be able to tell if you have chewed through wires after about 5 minutes on the rack. Lexus wire looms are serious money- I know of one LS400 that was totaled because the front tire blew and took out the plastic inner fender then a chunk of the wire loom that’s hidden underneath it. That’s a $20,000 total!!!!! I hope you get yours fixed ok.

I’m very happy to hear that you went out with “regular climbers”. One of your stated goals, way way back at the beginning, was to know what that was like. I trust that you had fun. If you are contemplating going to NJC, yes that’s good, do it. One of the best things about climbing, IMHO, is the variety and richness of the stone we climb on. Learning new techniques so you can get up something is very eye opening. For example. What do you do when all the good edges are facing the wrong way??? (Down) We all have our favorites. Right now you say you like hold less slab, certainly the predominant stone in JT. But how can you say that? You have never, as far as I know, climbed steep knobs or, my favorite, slightly overhanging big edges. The east coasters get to climb on steep stone with big defined holds and shapes- the primary tool is strength and endurance. The only reason I say this to you is because I feel like you have  trapped yourself into thinking that Joshua Tree is the best climbing ever. Personally I think if you went to the Gunk’s and climbed “Three Pines” on a cool autumn day, with the countryside painted in fluorescent gold and orange below, you would be so stoked your head would explode- mine sure did!
So bottom line- go to NJC have fun! Discover new tricks, new things, but above all have a blast! 

Thank you, Guy.  When you (and some others) speak, I do listen.  

When I moved here I planned to "bloom where you're planted".--I can hit the park and be home in hours  I have 300 square miles of land and ten thousand routes.to occupy me--of every kind except Gunks kind.  Cracks, face climbs, slab, even overhanging...   I'm trying not to be too lopsided here... my last three outings have been anything but slab.  But yea, I'd like to get to other areas, too, including Red Rocks..  

I have experienced some other rock... not like you have but I have climbed at Lovers Leap, Tahoe, Truckee, Auburn quarry... all of those quite a bit.  Not one drew me like Joshua Tree.  I'd love to climb in Utah and Colorado.  

I'm kind of upset with myself over the outing on Sunday.  The guys were all great, even though we had never met I fell in with them right away.  But I had it in my mind "Easy climbing, a couple of hours" so I really didn't think ahead--didn't warm up, and didn't really consider whether I was ready for some strenuous crack climbing..  I overdid it, got pretty tired, and came home thrashed... I'm still recovering today.  

Or Lori come to Australia and climb at Mt Arapiles and watch the sun light up the bright yellow canola fields. Routes with so many beautiful jugs all over the place it reminds one of a French whore house.  

I love the crimpers in Red rocks. the hard black varnished rock on the outside that erodes around it making an amazing crimper. 

Monday we went for a pretty big ski. about 7.5 miles. a perfect follow up to Easter  Sundays solo climb.  Perfect corn snow. I suspect that we would not be able to ski across the ponds today. A lot has changed in the last two days.  My friend John showed me the official Long loop.  I had previously only done the short and medium loops a bunch of times. I always enjoy new territory. 

A lot of snow still up there, Nick, all gone now ( except in downhill areas) in southern New England.

Got out on rock, finally, for the first time this season. Small, obscure top rope area, but still fun—though with no leaves to give shade, it was depressingly hot —seems like we jumped directly from winter to summer here. As a result we have serious brush fire concerns—always something.

My front yard is melted out. back yard is two thirds melted out but I suspect i will still be able to ski up on the hill across the valley from me. same spot as monday. I will stay off the ponds though. 

Guy Keesee wrote:

Personally I think if you went to the Gunk’s and climbed “Three Pines” on a cool autumn day, with the countryside painted in fluorescent gold and orange below, you would be so stoked your head would explode- mine sure did!

View from Three Pines---Fall colors not yet at peak.  The climber is the famous Vulgarian Claude Suhl.

Chris Monz on Yum Yum Yab Yum (same difficulty as Three Pines)

Me at the top of Moonlight (just a bit harder than Three Pines)

Wow. Would love to get to the Gunks again. The weather last month when we were in NY was not conducive.

It has finally warmed up a bit and flowers are blooming and snakes are coming out of hibernation. Great riding on the local trails.

This guy surprised me right at the top of a technical climb, then scurried off into the brush.

Tim Schafstall wrote:

I can't help you, being on the east coast, but I can relate.  Had to ride the bike today because I could not find a partner to climb (Not so bad really; I have a brand new bike   ). Beautiful spring day here in Delaware, but gonna be hot later this week.  

Let's see the new bike!

Another photo of the Gunks in autumn. Doug Fosdick on Double Crack, 5.8, October 1974.

rgold wrote:

View from Three Pines---Fall colors not yet at peak.  The climber is the famous Vulgarian Claude Suhl.

I would have never guessed that that was Claude. I remember him showing up at the uberfal with a ladder.

She asked to go outside. I opened the back door. She stared. Sighed. Turned around. And can't even face the front window this morning.

It was almost 80 day before yesterday.

Ffs.

Best, Helen

its going to push 80f here today. i think i will see if I can find some snow and cliff i found a few weeks ago. cliff should be dry and nice but the two big questions are 

1. can I ski to it or will it be a mud slog? 

2. Is the cliff kitty litter? 

If I can find the drill . a wire brush and a few more implements of tourture to carry out there we just might find out..  ;)

Randy wrote:

Let's see the new bike!

Give the public what they want....

Very nice bike, Tim!  

I have heavy things on my mind this morning. Every year for the past decade I have challenged my office manager to a sunflower growing contest. She has won every time. This year I’m going to get on top of the situation. I was going to plant my seeds in the ground but I think that’s a mistake. I could go with a whiskey barrel that’s probably a little better but I’m guessing it’s really one plant per barrel?  What about the wind that we have here? Oh Lord, the seed packet says up to 16 feet tall with 10 inch blooms make perfect competition flowers.  I don’t know if a 16 foot sunflower could grow well in a container or in the wind so I could really use some coaching on this.

I feel like a real citizen a Joshua Tree now. I have some secret places where my favorite flowers grow. No one knows (except probably Brandt).