Stormy Monday Couloir Route info

Aside from the trip report on Cascade climber & the short description on summit post. Does anyone have anymore info on this route?

Looking for options for harder route options in Adam’s from a early June trip. Preferably grade III^

Here’s a photo from July 3, 2022 

Checkout the Pinnacle Headwall one can get to it from the main road from the west.

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Checkout the Pinnacle Headwall one can get to it from the main road from the west.

Have you happened to climb it? Would love to hear your thoughts if you have. It looks like it could be one of the least objectively hazardous routes on the peak.

From the description it sounds like it is up the pink line..? 

Chris Cwrote:

Here’s a photo from July 3, 2022 

Have you done the route by chance? I was wondering how much crevasse/glacier terrain there is involved.

Insert namewrote:

Have you done the route by chance? I was wondering how much crevasse/glacier terrain there is involved.

I have not. I took the photo when going for the Adams Glacier, which is definitely a very featured glacier route.  

There are a lot of potentially interesting but seemingly objectively hazardous routes on the peak, like the Lyman Glacier, Lava Glacier, and maybe Stormy Monday.  The shoddy rock definitely seems to be a real objective hazard, evident by the significant debris on and below the routes.

Yes I have climbed the Pinnacle Headwall. Chris yer picture is on the wrong side of the hill. That is the side of the NW Ridge. See Pinnacle Glacier Headwall. No cracks, just a romp up the headwall. Tops out on the west summit. Nice walk in da woods to get there. So it makes for a good three day adventure.

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Yes I have climbed the Pinnacle Headwall. Chris yer picture is on the wrong side of the hill. That is the side of the NW Ridge. See Pinnacle Glacier Headwall. No cracks, just a romp up the headwall. Tops out on the west summit. Nice walk in da woods to get there. So it makes for a good three day adventure.

Thanks, Allan! 

Chris Cwrote:

Just FYI for folks looking at these photos, this line is roughly the North Face of the Northwest Ridge ("NFNWR"), which is a fairly popular ski objective.

https://www.wildsnow.com/26151/mount-adams-north-face-northwest-ridge/

Beckey (Vol I) has info on the Pinnacle Headwall, Stormy Monday, and lots of other obscure Adams routes.

Kyle Tarrywrote:

Just FYI for folks looking at these photos, this line is roughly the North Face of the Northwest Ridge ("NFNWR"), which is a fairly popular ski objective.

https://www.wildsnow.com/26151/mount-adams-north-face-northwest-ridge/

Beckey (Vol I) has info on the Pinnacle Headwall, Stormy Monday, and lots of other obscure Adams routes.

Kyle is right. That line is the NFNWR. The Adams glacier is lookers left, and I believe stormy monday is the couloir to the left. 

If you want beta Contact Jason Hummel. Don't think he's climbed up stormy monday, but has definitely skied it and just about every other line on Adams. He probably knows that mountain better than anyone.

saign charlesteinwrote:

Kyle is right. That line is the NFNWR. The Adams glacier is lookers left, and I believe stormy monday is the couloir to the left. 

If you want beta Contact Jason Hummel. Don't think he's climbed up stormy monday, but has definitely skied it and just about every other line on Adams. He probably knows that mountain better than anyone.

That is correct. Stormy Monday is left of Adam’s. (There’s a good photo in the Adam’s page here that outlines it).

Thanks for the info

Sorry saw this thread late. As Kyle said, the line you marked is NFNWR. Stormy Monday follows the couloir to left of the Adams Gkacier route. I climbed it in October 2021. Wayne Wallace has a nice description of it too.

Oops looks like it was October 2020. Here is a better photo of the route,  and a picture of as we approached the rock band about 2/3 way up (top of main couloir ends at the band. transition to the hourglass above requires getting through the band and then traversing left to the base of the hourglass). The rock band is definitely the crux and seems to require climbing unprotected mixed in July per most trip reports (I can’t recall what people rate it at, maybe m4?), or in our case we climbed reasonably protected AI3 on Halloween for about 30m and then another 30m of steep snow to top out in the runnel, and then did a hard traverse left for half a rope length in to the bottom of the hourglass below it’s narrow point. Wayne Wallace has a trip report where he went straight up from the rock band (instead of traversing) and on to what he called the Adams glacier headwall. After climbing that I think he was in the upper far right of the hourglass above the narrows.

Approaching the rock band at top of first couloir (about 2/3 way up). Above that you traverse hard left in to base of hourglass.