JTree Slab Recs?

I’m hoping to gain more outdoor slab climbing experience so I’m looking for recommendations on protected JTree routes, ideally somewhere in the 5.8 - 5.10a range. Thanks!

no slab in jtree, sorry. go to red rocks

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107117677/hidden-slab

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105721828/walk-on-the-wild-side

Hi Alex, do you own Todd Gordon’s guidebook?  He’s very careful in discussing protection levels on JT face routes. 

Loose Lady!

Siberia, Outer Mongolia

TaylorP wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105721828/walk-on-the-wild-side

I kinda feel like Walk on the Wild Side is not something to hop on when you want to gain some experience. that route is for someone already experienced on slab and is comfortable with long run outs.

What is your definition of protected? Almost all of them have some potential for injury if you fall in the wrong spot. I have found that top-roping hard slab is the best prep to then go lead moderate slab. I might be a wuss, but 1-2 full number grades is appropriate for a place like Jtree.

corpse wrote:

I kinda feel like Walk on the Wild Side is not something to hop on when you want to gain some experience. that route is for someone already experienced on slab and is comfortable with long run outs.

Besides Mongolia there’s no JT slab safer than Walk on the Wild Side.

Tradiban wrote:

Besides Mongolia there’s no JT slab safer than Walk on the Wild Side.

yeah, ok.  tell that to an inexperienced slab climber when they are 20 or 30' above a bolt.

corpse wrote:

yeah, ok.  tell that to an inexperienced slab climber when they are 20 or 30' above a bolt.

That’s just the reality of Joshua Tree slab. It’s technically very easy, so it is a decent route to learn on. When you’re 20-30’ above a bolt, you learn how to stay composed and not fall by the time you get to the next bolt.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/107148146

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106660862/tims-valentine

corpse wrote:

yeah, ok.  tell that to an inexperienced slab climber when they are 20 or 30' above a bolt.

I said “safer”, it’s still run out. Getting run out and not losing your shit is how you learn.

5.6/7: Double Dip, Stichter Quits.

5.9/10a: Mama Woolsey, Dazed and Confused.

boulders: King Smear, Slabmaster, Hensel Face. 

Tradiban wrote:

Besides Mongolia there’s no JT slab safer than Walk on the Wild Side.

Penny Lane....

EDIT: I found some of these protect well. Not exciting Climbing: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/111476998/apparition-rock-rear

There is also a 5.7 short sport route on Hodgepodge Rock in Indian Cove.

Gumby King wrote:

Penny Lane....

EDIT: I found some of these protect well. Not exciting Climbing: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/111476998/apparition-rock-rear

There is also a 5.7 short sport route on Hodgepodge Rock in Indian Cove.

Pshaw, drop yer balls on Walk or go home.

Indian Cove Recommendations:

• Campfire Crag South Side -I love My Marine, McStain
• Apparition Backside - All of the 5.7 - 5.8's
• Nature Hike Wall - Couple of good little slabs, the 10c is especially well protected and good for practice
• Indian Pallisades / Willit Pillar - Willit Slab, Willit or Wont it

Main Park Recommendations:

• Echo Cove North Side - Swing Low, Sound of One Shoe Tapping, WAC (There are other good slabs in this area)
• Echo T West Face - Double Dip, Sticher Quits, Penny Lane, Heart and Sole (more edging then slab, but still good footwork practice)
• Echo T - Hidden Slab
• Saddle Rocks Skirt - Specifically P1 of Orange Flake and Kid Calingula. We just updated Gaucho Marx over there as well. The less protected Walk on the Wild Side is also incredible, and Dial 911 works into your grade range, though I haven't done it and cant vouch for how protected it is.
• Houser Buttress - Loose Lady

Wonderland of Rock Recommendations:

• Fat Freddie's Cat - Field of Dreams
• Lenticular Dome - Mental Physics (top out pitch), Dazed and Confused
• Nomad Dome - Final Furious Farsi, Willard
• South Astro - Breakfast of Champions top out pitch
• North Astro - Let your Freak Flag Fly

IDK why I split it up this way, other then it made sense to my brain. I put a lot of 5.6-7 in here as well because milage and... Well... J-Tree grades.

Plenty more out there to recommend but this is a good list to start with.

Just clipped your bolts on Orange Flake, Tyler! Thanks !!

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With regards to Echo slabs, to get warmed up, you can traverse a long stretch (right off the ground) across Echo Rock from Stichter Quits to Penny Lane. Then hop on Penny which is well protected. The Hidden Slab routes (Private Eye and Under the Radar) are on the shady side around the corner and Touch and Go is across the wash. Sounds like a nice day.

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My favorite slab move in the park is the one moving past the bolt on The Flake. Both the moonlit or golden sunset variations seem to illuminate the bumps perfectly :)

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Oh yeah bumping up a grade or two, Field and Stream is amazing. Bob Gaines does it again!

Why all that Jtree has to offer, why would you want slab………

Ummm ... not sure how to break this to you Nick, but jtree is like 99.4% slab lol

I found an overhanging route recently but had to climb thru a couple caves to reach it. I think there are some cracks here and there too ??

Just joshin ya of course