New and Experienced climbers over 50 ##24

Carl that shit pisses me off ;)  every time I try to pull the age card as an excuse for my mediocre climbing ability some super freak health nut a few years older than myself climbs something amazing....  these people should really take the time to smell the roses and eat some damn ice cream every now and then ;)

Lori Milas wrote:

Well, I promised Tony that I would stay home on Easter and celebrate with him with the exception that I would go to Mass first alone. I also said I was hanging up my climbing shoes permanently. …

You are getting better at this climbing thing. “Real Climbers” do this from time to time—- you know your really getting “it” when you toss your boots and chalk bag into the campfire.

So now I’m on my way home to help Tony with the Easter ham  And mashed potatoes. I learned something new about him this week. I told him I had a yearning for scalloped potatoes, which he was happy to do only with leftover ham. That’s the way he’s always made it , that’s the way his mother made it and he cannot fathom scalloped potatoes without leftover ham . So I said fine make them. 

That’s why I make a “practice ham” the week before- then I can make beans n ham for weeknights and scallop potatoes for Easter….. 

Q: What’s the definition of eternity???? 

Happy Easter everyone!  Hopefully no snafus today!  

None. I’m staying off the bike!

You all have a grand time.

A: A whole Ham. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Carl that shit pisses me off ;)  every time I try to pull the age card as an excuse for my mediocre climbing ability some super freak health nut a few years older than myself climbs something amazing....  these people should really take the time to smell the roses and eat some damn ice cream every now and then ;)

Nick…. Or the person who has the good climbing gene… I have known some drunk gluttons who just keep on going and going and going….
Luck of the draw I figure.

Carl…. The Enfield is so classic. 

Went for a Sunday drive. It was a beautiful sunny day. 

 I found winter

Couple of cats from Maine were on P 2 so I took my time getting kitted up and hiking to the base.  Though it was sunny and warm in the valleys the ice was bullet proof and brittle.  My plan to climb with my Old trusty 1985 Chounard ax fizzeled out after about  20ft. Old Blue did just fine but the BD ultra light Raven was totally sketchy in the hard brittle conditions. wish I has two old tools but sold all those cool relics BINTD... 

Could have done it if I had no choice but I did have a choice. Switched out to modern tools and hiked up to the snowfield. It was nice neve.

boogied up the crunchy stuff and fired in a screw to wait for the Mainiacs to finish.

The Parasols are much smaller than last year but still interesting.

Looking down

It is an easy climb with easy approach but tons of exposure and a wonderful view. Normally I down climb or butt slide a snow gully just north of the climb then do another lap but the brittle conditions today made the climbing challenging enough that the rat was well fed after just the one ascent. 

a short hike along the ridge leads us to the spectacular Table Rock

Had to don the crampons again for the steep hike down to the road. It was bulletproof in the shade of the fir trees. 

This place is special

 swung by Willoughby on the way home..

Wordel Spoiler!!!!!!

so its late enough that this should not be a spoiler but i warned you. . I did not type in the winning word until my 5th try because I was under The correct impression that it was an acronym and not a word. also it contains profanity. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Wordel Spoiler!!!!!!

so its late enough that this should not be a spoiler but i warned you. . I did not type in the winning word until my 5th try because I was under The correct impression that it was an acronym and not a word. also it contains profanity. 

Idaho Bob beat you to it. Now I know not to go to MP until after the NYT.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Wordel Spoiler!!!!!!

so its late enough that this should not be a spoiler but i warned you. . I did not type in the winning word until my 5th try because I was under The correct impression that it was an acronym and not a word. also it contains profanity. 

Where’s the profanity? Did I miss something good?  

I, too, am getting a little weary of Wordle.  As Wendy said it’s 50% luck. Do any of you also do the Spelling Bee?

Randy thank you for your kind words and encouragement—that means a lot coming from you.  I think there may be more Houser routes that didn’t come up in my MP query.  I’m sure I got most of them.  It’s been a fun way to learn how to climb different kinds of rock in some kind of progressive order.  And also to learn the history of this incredible place.  

Next I guess I have to do all the Gaines routes… over the next few lifetimes.    

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Wordel Spoiler!!!!!so its late enough that this should not be a spoiler but i warned you. . I did not type in the winning word until my 5th try because I was under The correct impression that it was an acronym and not a word. also it contains profanity. 

It's both.  Began as an acronym but has been an official word for awhile.  Similar to scuba, radar, laser, taser and many others.  Language evolves...

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Carl that shit pisses me off ;)  every time I try to pull the age card as an excuse for my mediocre climbing ability some super freak health nut a few years older than myself climbs something amazing....  these people should really take the time to smell the roses and eat some damn ice cream every now and then ;)

Ha ha yeah. I don’t chase grades but every now and again I feel a little proud of myself. Or at least lucky. 

Lori—SNAFU —situation normal all f—-ed up.

Alan Rubin wrote:

Lori—SNAFU —situation normal all f—-ed up.

FUBAR is bound to be next

Lori, I don't remember the details of Overpowered by Funk.  The only time I really remember being on it was when Kris and I did it and it took me considerable effort to reach thru the crux on the bottom crack but I fell off right about where Kris is standing in the photo because I was pumped out of my mind.  I was indeed, overpowered by funk.  

I didn't see Crystal Calisthenics on your Houser list. It is about 10a up on Saddle Rocks.  I was also on the FA of that route (since I am the one that found it and brought everyone there) but somehow Randy left me off the list (probably Charles' idea).

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

This place is special

 swung by Willoughby on the way home..

Nick... all beautiful pictures!  What about the rock formations.  Are they for climbing?

It's really bad kitty litter. Some climbs have been done. I don't know if anything has been repeated? I am less than 1.5 hrs away from it now so something might happen. 

I had a delightful day out at New Jack City with Barb, Brandt, Jean, John and Mike!  Ropes and laughs were shared. Good times with good folks!

Jan Mc wrote:

Lori, I don't remember the details of Overpowered by Funk.  The only time I really remember being on it was when Kris and I did it and it took me considerable effort to reach thru the crux on the bottom crack but I fell off right about where Kris is standing in the photo because I was pumped out of my mind.  I was indeed, overpowered by funk.  

I didn't see Crystal Calisthenics on your Houser list. It is about 10a up on Saddle Rocks.  I was also on the FA of that route (since I am the one that found it and brought everyone there) but somehow Randy left me off the list (probably Charles' idea).

I'd forgotten about that Crystal Calisthenics route. I think it was Dave Mayville that brought that one to my attention. He said it was pretty good. Really fun variety and exposure. MP lists the FA as: Herb Laeger, Charles Cole, Jan McCollum & Hank Levine, April 1978.

I remember that Overpowered by Funk was a big reach problem for you. Either you can reach the jug from the last good pinch along the crack (I could), or you can't (you couldn't). Yet again we did two entirely different climbs on the same route. I also remember really liking that Johnny Woodward route on the back side there, Freckleface. 

Kristian Solem wrote:

I remember that Overpowered by Funk was a big reach problem for you. Either you can reach the jug from the last good pinch along the crack (I could), or you can't (you couldn't). Yet again we did two entirely different climbs on the same route. I also remember really liking that Johnny Woodward route on the back side there, Freckleface. 

Yeah, lots of times those 12b routes turn into 13b routes due to a lack of holds.  Good thing I had some of the worlds strongest fingers back then.  I can honestly only remember one route that I could not do because of the reach (at Trapper Dome)  but I remember any number of routes that were incredibly more difficult, including a 10a in the Gorge that was more like a 12a mono droit problem to get past the reach.  I think two of my least favorite climbing areas were just because of the lack of holds - Valhalla and Devil's Punchbowl.

Holds are what makes climbing fun.  that is why Red Rocks and COR are so much fun. 

phylp phylp wrote:

I had a delightful day out at New Jack City with Barb, Brandt, Jean, John and Mike!  Ropes and laughs were shared. Good times with good folks!

Phylp

Jean and I had a great time yesterday climbing with Barb, Brandt and yourself. You are a climbing machine. You danced up every climb that you lead. 

I hope to see everyone in the fall when we come back. I need to get into better shape to keep up with all of you.

Brandt

I had trad climbed with Brandt before and he is very good. Thank you for taking Jean and I to New Jack City.

Jean and John

Oldtradguy wrote:

Phylp

Jean and I had a great time yesterday climbing with Barb, Brandt and yourself. You are a climbing machine. You danced up every climb that you lead. 

I hope to see everyone in the fall when we come back. I need to get into better shape to keep up with all of you.

Brandt

I had trad climbed with Brandt before and he is very good. Thank you for taking Jean and I to New Jack City.

Jean and John

So cool!