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Is this rack enough to start multi-pitch trad climbing?

Original Post
Lucas Pfenning · · Santa Monica, CA · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 32

I have trad multi-pitched a handful of times with a buddy who has a double rack of cams, but I am putting together a rack of my own and wanted to know if this is good enough to be able to do a large handful of climbs. I think I have what is considered a "light standard rack," especially when it comes to cams. Here is my current rack:

6x BD cams (0.4-3)

10x BD nuts (4-13)

5x BD offset nuts (7-11)

7x BD hexes (4-10)

12x sport draws

6x 60cm alpine draws

2x 120cm alpine draws

2x 240cm slings and 30ft accessory cord, all with hms lockers (for trad anchors)

I also have a nut tool and all the belay and repel stuff and extra wire gates and lockers and a single 70m rope

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

For stuff that's easy for you that sounds great. For stuff that's at your limit you're going to either want more cams or get really really good at placing hexes. Most people these days don't really know how to place hexes well or quickly, but the old timers claim they can be placed as quickly as cams when you develop that skillset, so it's entirely possible. And you'll get major trad dad points! 

Yoda Jedi Knight · · Sandpoint, ID · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Depends where. If you're proficient with your passive pro, that will get you up plenty of routes with lots of nut placements but maybe not parallel cracks - shorter pitches will be your friend. Remember, you need enough gear for two anchors (one at the top and one at the bottom of each pitch, except the first) plus what you need to protect the pitch.

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

It's likely very very objective dependent, but if it were me in my area with my objectives, I would add a 4-6pc tricam rack and drop the standard BD nuts.  I really like tricams for anchor pieces, which allows me to fire off with the complete rack of cams.  They are a very nice, light, and cheap supplement to a single rack.  12 sport draws is a lot in addition to the alpine draws, you likely aren't going to be sewing up routes with a single rack, so you can probably drop that to 6 if you don't already own them. I've never climbed with hexes so I won't comment on that.

kit camp · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

People will tell you you need a double rack of cams, etc. Many of us did not have the funds to buy a giant rack before we started climbing. I bought my first rack used. It was a double set of stoppers and some tri-cams. I bought cams slowly over a period of years and used hexes before I had lots of cams available. It got me up lots of routes in NH, CO and Joshua Tree. I didn't have a full double set of cams until recently and I have been leading multi-pitch routes since 1991. If you climb regularly with the same folks who are also starting out, try to complement each others' purchases. 

That list you posted sounds like a solid rack to me...

 

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Sounds like more than enough for objectives where you don't need anything bigger. I recommend not buying anything else till you've used what you have and found it wanting, and then specifically getting the "missing piece." Don't buy the shit you dream you'll need, buy the shit you KNOW you need.

Go climbing!

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I predict that you will miss the 0.3 cam quite a bit, and to a lesser extent the 0.1/0.2 cams, too.    Of course, plenty of people have climbed plenty of routes without them.

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Yikes I did quite a bit of first trad leads with 3 hexes, a set of stoppers, and a #3 cam.

Andrew Leaf · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

Good starting set. Should get you up a lot of routes. A double set of cams is nice, but it really depends on where and what you are climbing. 

Zach Baer · · Bellingham · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5

I'd get a .3 (blue totem), but other than that it looks like a great starter rack. I think placing passive gear is a valuable skill to develop, and you're forced to do it with a single rack. You'll likely want more cams at a certain point, but there's always more goodies to get. Also that's a lot of draws and I'd drop some sport for more alpine for your rack. But they certainly work if you've got em.

If you enjoy the passive gear, get some tricams to supplement; they're super fun and incredibly versatile. Except when you need a piece asap.

James Fulton · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2019 · Points: 49

Get a .3, two more 60cm slings, and black through brown tricams  

Tim Page · · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

Depends on the route, and/or the length of the pitch. You'll be a better leader by getting good at spotting passive pro placements; a good way to start.  However, you'll probably want a double rack eventually, plus a number 4, .3 and .2. 

Danny Birchman · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 171

What you have or lack isn't the question as much as what are you ok doing without?

The Butt-Shot Whisperer · · Colorful Colorado · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

please leave the hex set at home or sell them

its like bringing a drone to a cliff, way too noisy

The Traddest Dad · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Please bring the hex set to the crag every time. Even better if you also bring a #7 tricam too. If people complain or give you a funny look, it just means do not know the true path of the trad dad, and you should pity them for their ignorance.

All joking aside this is way more than enough for anything that isn't big wall or aid. Combine it with a partner's rack for double cams if you're hitting long splitter cracks like in IC or something. 

You're good to go. 

Curt Haire · · leavenworth, wa · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1

from one who was leading 5.11 before cams were invented:  I was trad climbing with a single run of stoppers/hexes spanning from 1/4" to 4", and a handful of runners.  Your list is multiples of that.  Go out and use what you have, and don't add until you find you truly need it.  Knowing how to use what you have is vastly more important than having everything under the sun and trying to climb with a 50lb rack...

-Haireball

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257

Get a friend who has a big rack.

Ben Crowell · · Fullerton · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 331

If you want to minimize cost and also reduce the risk of running out of gear on a pitch, then I would suggest adding the following:

- Make yourself four shoulder-length slings out of 6 mm cord (as an alternative to buying more expensive dyneema draws). You don't have enough long, flexible draws in relation to the amount of passive pro you're depending on. Passive pro typically needs to be extended with a full-length shoulder-length sling. These homemade slings will be kind of bulky hanging from your harness. You probably want to carry them over your shoulder. If you tie them with an offset overhand ("EDK"), then you get added flexibility because you can untie them if needed.

- Buy a red tricam and a pink tricam. The other sizes are useful, but not as useful as those sizes.

If you're jumping on a route that is a long, uniform crack, the rack you have may be inadequate, so look at beta and be careful about route selection. My first trad lead was a uniform 3" crack, and I didn't have enough gear of that size. Ugh.

Develop skills at looking around for pro a little bit off to the sides, not just in front of your face.

Personally I carry hexes in the two smallest sizes that BD makes, and they have a good ratio of usefulness to size/weight. I used to carry some larger ones, but I decided they weren't worth taking. I never feel good about hex placements in parallel-sided cracks. I mostly use them when there's a natural slot, and then they're just bomber against a downward pull.

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187
Colonel Mustardwrote:

Get a friend who has a big rack.

Can Recommend, my half rack turned into a triple

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
Ben Crowellwrote:

- Make yourself four shoulder-length slings out of 6 mm cord (as an alternative to buying more expensive dyneema draws). You don't have enough long, flexible draws in relation to the amount of passive pro you're depending on. Passive pro typically needs to be extended with a full-length shoulder-length sling. These homemade slings will be kind of bulky hanging from your harness. You probably want to carry them over your shoulder. If you tie them with an offset overhand ("EDK"), then you get added flexibility because you can untie them if needed.

I think three sewn nylon slings and one 6mm cord chalk bag loop would be a better choice in terms of long-term utility.

Aside: I would not personally want to take a lead fall on an EDK.

Edit to add: knotted 5mm prussik loops are a reasonable way to save money over sewn alternatives.

Professor Watermelon · · MADISON · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Run what you Brung.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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