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Another Day on Solar Slab: How not to Interact with Your Fellow Climber

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Jonathan Walker wrote:

Am I the only one who thinks it’s strange to pass another party indiscriminately, just to get ahead of them, and then lambast them on a public forum for being annoyed that you cut them off without communicating anything? Sounds like both parties are just racing to be “first”, and neither knows how to share. Adults are the real children.

Are you the gentleman in question?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Jonathan Walker wrote:

Am I the only one who thinks it’s strange to pass another party indiscriminately, just to get ahead of them, and then lambast them on a public forum for being annoyed that you cut them off without communicating anything? Sounds like both parties are just racing to be “first”, and neither knows how to share. Adults are the real children.

Except this isn't what happened. The way you describe it is called "spin."

"indiscriminately"

"cut them off"

"without communicating anything"

All inaccurate.

Christian Hesch · · Arroyo Grande, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 55
Jonathan Walker wrote:

 I can see why the other party would be annoyed....I get it, but it’s still a shitty move.

I can also see how the other party might have been better off to hold their tongue until they had been riding the ass of the "offending" party that romped up the gully for at least a pitch...if not two. Had they held their tongue, they would have been able to see that the party that "cut them off" cleanly and politely passed them on an adjacent route was far too efficient for them to bitch about the pass (the pass that didn't slow them down (according to the OP's version)).


"Better to hold thy tongue and be thought possibly a fool, than open thy mouth and remove all doubt." Some ancient wiseass on a hill, probably.

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 3,633
Jonathan Walker wrote:

What can I say, I have a gift for flourish.

I’m not going to engage further, but, my point is, I can see why the other party would be annoyed. Lack of upfront communication and wanting to get ahead. I get it, but it’s still a shitty move.

Cheers.

Sounds like you're not interested in engaging, but in case you are: Why exactly is it shitty to try and pass another party if you don't inconvenience them by doing so?  Particularly on a long route where you'll get a hefty ticket if you're not back at the car by 600.  

I'm all for upfront communication.  How would you envision that working when there are 8 people 100-300' above you on two different routes and you don't actually know if you're going to pass any of them, but want to try for the aforementioned reasons?  Totally open to suggestions if you have productive ideas.  I agree with you that they may have been right to be annoyed, but would echo Christian's point that it's not that hard to wait a minute before expressing that to see if it's actually merited or not.

As for Ryan, I'm not sure what exactly about me and/or my creative writing project/attempt at comedy/venting/general psa rubbed you so wrong, but I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings.  It really seems to have gotten under your skin and I'm sorry that you found it/me so upsetting.  

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265
ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

Actual footage from Reel Rock in Boulder last night. 

Mary Mickler · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 10

I’m with E Muud, I also don’t think Max was trying to spray. Actually while reading his post I felt similarly because I’ve noticed several times on multi-pitches (and just this week on Olive Oil) that people have had discouraging multi-pitch manners. The more experienced parties tend to talk bad about other parties that are slower than them right within earshot. This makes me so sad because those of us who climb stronger should remember that this may be someone else’s first multi-pitch or may be right within their climbing grade and they’re trying their best out there. By saying rude comments in front of newer parties, it could really taint their climbing experience on an incredible route. Stronger climbers do not have any more right to a rock than any others, and I think we should be mutually concerned that other climbers on the rock have just as good of a time as we are having. I think the choices are to wake up earlier, to climb a harder multi-pitch, or to just accept that the day may be a really chill day on the rock with a whole congo line of people unless they choose to let you pass. I personally find kindness/humility/patience on an easy route to be much more impressive than how fast or hard one can climb. 

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21
Mary Micklerwrote:

I’m with E Muud, I also don’t think Max was trying to spray. Actually while reading his post I felt similarly because I’ve noticed several times on multi-pitches (and just this week on Olive Oil) that people have had discouraging multi-pitch manners. The more experienced parties tend to talk bad about other parties that are slower than them right within earshot. This makes me so sad because those of us who climb stronger should remember that this may be someone else’s first multi-pitch or may be right within their climbing grade and they’re trying their best out there. By saying rude comments in front of newer parties, it could really taint their climbing experience on an incredible route. Stronger climbers do not have any more right to a rock than any others, and I think we should be mutually concerned that other climbers on the rock have just as good of a time as we are having. I think the choices are to wake up earlier, to climb a harder multi-pitch, or to just accept that the day may be a really chill day on the rock with a whole congo line of people unless they choose to let you pass. I personally find kindness/humility/patience on an easy route to be much more impressive than how fast or hard one can climb. 

So easy to fail to be kind, humble and patient.  I fail all the time.  Those qualities are not so difficult when I am having a great day. Being kind, humble and patient everyday is so hard and usually I see my failure in retrospect. 

Mike J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0
Live Perchedwrote:

So easy to fail to be kind, humble and patient.  I fail all the time.  Those qualities are not so difficult when I am having a great day. Being kind, humble and patient everyday is so hard and usually I see my failure in retrospect. 

This is incredibly insightful. It's a humble thing to admit your own mistakes and shortcomings.

almostrad · · BLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 17

Man this thread was a real hoot. Who knew simuling 5.7 has so much status attached to it now?!

Funny enough, I also got clogged up on that route a bit (actually by another party mentioned in this thread luck would have it). But it was minimal, at the raps, and they were super friendly the whole time.

I knew Timmy was from CO halfway through the story…

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,220
Mary Micklerwrote:

those of us who climb stronger should remember that this may be someone else’s first multi-pitch or may be right within their climbing grade and they’re trying their best out there. By saying rude comments in front of newer parties, it could really taint their climbing experience on an incredible route. Stronger climbers do not have any more right to a rock than any others, and I think we should be mutually concerned that other climbers on the rock have just as good of a time as we are having. 

being “stronger” is by definition relative. all you gotta do is keep climbing to find those who will warm up on your projects. strongly agree that it pays to stay humble. 

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

The whole scenario gets lamer everytime I read it.

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2
Tradibanwrote:

The whole scenario gets lamer everytime I read it.

The whole issue should have stayed in Vegas I believe.

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408
M Mwrote:

The whole issue should have stayed in Vegas I believe.

This is now going to be my comment on every stupid Protect Vegas/Vegas is Overcrowded/Vegas Locals are Infallible/Vegas Locals are “Locals”/Stay in Boulder or the Bay/NIMBY/This Rock is Wetter than Yo Mama Last Night thread.

Timmy W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0

Hi everyone, my name is Timmy and I'm the person on blast in this trip report. If I had seen this thread I would have replied sooner, but I'm not on here much (2 bizy climbing). I'd just like to give my account of the story, because how Max remembers it is not how I remember it- though he apparently remembers it well enough to use my real name (you couldn't even give me a moniker? Dude).

My partner and I were the 2nd party to the base of JV that morning, and the leader of the 1st party was about halfway up the 1st pitch when we arrived. "Goodmorning!" I said to the belayer, "would you like some of my homemade muffins?". They took one for themselves and one for their leader. Then they said they were planning to rap off after JV, not continuing up solar slab. "Great!" I said. "We were planning to simul JV and solar slab today, but since you're not continuing onto solar slab, I won't try to pass you. We'll pitch out JV and simul solar slab when you're safely out of the way."

They were really really slow, but it was a gorgeous morning so I didn't mind. During this time, a line has formed, and a couple folks show up at the base of the climb, loudly complaining about the crowds and generally being derisive about everyone in line with a real "I'm better than all of these climbers" attitude. They start spraying loudly about simuling the gully and cutting in front of everyone. "I hope they don't try to pass us" I said to my partner, "Because that would be really rude". Low and behold, as I'm belaying my partner up to the base of solar slab, the leader of this party barges up beside me.

"Goodmorning!" I say to him, "Great day out, isn't it?". And he says something like "Yeah, it would be if it weren't for all these gumbies on my climb". I remind him that solar slab is a beginner classic, and everyone is just trying to have a fun time out. "Whatever" he says, and no kidding, clips himself in to my anchor. Like, WTF? Who does that? I didn't say anything because he was clearly in a bad mood, and I didn't want to deal.

His partner got up to the base before mine. When his partner arrives, she changes out of approach shoes into climbing shoes. "Shit!" says the first guy. "I forgot my climbing shoes back at camp!". I tell him I have an extra pair in my pack, in just his size, that he can borrow for the day. He graciously accepts. "I don't suppose you have an extra helmet, too, do you?" He asks. "I had mine clipped to my backpack, but it fell off in the gully, along with my nalgene that was full of shit". I tell him I don't, and that he should take care to carry his gear more securely, as he could really hurt someone on the ground like that. "Shut up, nerd" he says. I let that issue go. Noticing that he simul'd the gully, I ask if he is going to simul solar slab, as well. He says "No. We simul'd just to pass you and the rest of the losers down there."

"Okay" I said. I see where this is going, but I press the issue anyway. "We were about to start simuling solar slab. Can you please wait for us to start before you start pitching it out?"

"We beat you to the start. We're faster than you". I tried to explain that we just had to wait on a slower party ahead of us, but he didn't care. By the time my partner got to the base of solar slab, they were already starting the first pitch of solar slab, and belligerently refused to let us pass for the rest of the day. We had to share every anchor with them for the rest of the climb, which was made even more unpleasant because of the way the guy treated his climbing partner- he was constantly berating her for leading slowly, taking to long, etc. All in all, we still had fun, just wasn't what we were expecting that day. Oh, and I never got my shoes back from Max, either.

Will J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5
Timmy Wwrote:

Hi everyone, my name is Timmy […]

6/10 for the slow build, but overall I feel like you really could’ve been more creative with it

Timmy W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0
Will Jwrote:

6/10 for the slow build, but overall I feel like you really could’ve been more creative with it

Lunch break is only so long, what can ya do

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsionwrote:

The dumbass who points out that the obvious troll is a troll is way more annoying than the actual obvious troll.

Remember when it was almost like a boys bathroom contest to point out the traveling nurse/elena troll? She was  next level, bringing out the dumbass in about 20 suckers daily.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

It’s a very believable response except for the part about the climbing shoes. 

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615
M Mwrote:

Remember when it was almost like a boys bathroom contest to point out the traveling nurse/elena troll? She was  next level, bringing out the dumbass in about 20 suckers daily.

Maquinna = Elena???

I don't think I ever commented on any of her posts, but man was she was annoying. Good riddance!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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